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With my luck, I'm not surprised I heard you can do them in car too. Never done one before though, so I pulled. Glad I did. I'd have effed it up bad in car probably.. hah

I put a 2.2 in, and it had a blown head gasket

Well that was silly of them.... I love subarus... But I wouldn't trade a 74 mustang for one!

228k on my Legacy. ej22 swap made it to be alive again!

Two top bolts, one is shared with the starter mount. Two bottom. And two locating pegs. They might be missing from your swap engine leaving un-threaded holes. You'll have to swap the pegs over, no bigger, vice grips pulls them out. It's an SUS, so it's an auto. Be sure you have all four torque converter bolts out, and then push the torque converter back away from the pressure plate so it doesn't come out with the engine.

Even if you remove the arm you still have to remove the other clip that holds the cable casing to the unit. Which is a bigger pita than the one that holds the cable to the arm.

I like the AWD in my daily commuter suby. Going from snowy to dry pavement in the winter, my nasty driveway to pavement, doing hill stop on a steep slippy hill that turns into pavement 10' later... AWD is wonderful Now I LOVE the 4wd in my GL, especially with low range. In heavy snow, offroad, getting unstuck, pulling people out, etc. The locked center is absolutely awesome. So the way I see it is, 4wd is more fun offroad and playing around, but AWD is a lot better for just everyday driving. AWD is also wonderful for street performance. 4wd can't even compare in that respect.

If you can pull a engine, you can do the 22 swap. It's very easy, no electrical work needed! Only other thing you have to switch might be the AC bracket from the 2.5. Not all AC brackets are created equal. Do the head gaskets on the 22 before you swap it in! I didn't, and regretted it.

For what it's worth, I just find it easier to disconnect it at the top... That way I don't have to deal with the cable attached when I'm working with the controls. And it's a pain in the neck (literally) to bend my head down under the foot well and look for the other end. Just pull out the two clips and it's disconnected. A good pair of needle nose vicegrips make it a piece of cake.

I was meaning to fix it anyway. I don't like to make the poor transmission hold the whole entire car on steep hills. And what if my brakes fail!! durr... Well at least state inspection made me get my act together... And when I do a manual swap, it might be important to have

Took the brakes apart. Cleaned the heck out of everything. Sanded everything up. Adjusted them properly (never knew about that weird screw thing in there....). And now they work. yay. That was an easy fix. Thanks for the advise!

And being an auto nobody ever uses the e-brake.... I just don't understand how if the cable was seized the handle would still pull up, and pull the cable. But I'll have someone pull the handle and I'll watch to see if the shoes expand. I'll search around how to adjust the shoes, never done it that way before...

I took the rotor off one side. The shoes look thin and a little glazed. Cleaned everything up with brake cleaner and scuffed the shoes... Worked for about 3 seconds then the car started rolling... Isn't there an adjustment at the shoes too?

The e-brake on my 98GT doesn't work. And now it's a state inspection issue.... I tightened it at the handle, it gets nice and tight when you pull up on it just like it should. But still doesn't do poop. Put the car in D and it still rolls forward like the e-brake doesn't exist. What goes here?

Judging by the look of the license plate....... Those lights are doomed

If the rod came loose I doubt it was the knock sensor that cut the motor. It was probably the rod going through the block or something that cut the motor...

Auto and manual engines are the same, so yes. Either will work. I believe the phase2 all had EGR, so that's not an issue. Before dropping it, do a reseal and timing belt. No need for new head bolts, people don't replace them and do fine. Subaru head gaskets only!!!! Subaru thermostat, and replace all other gaskets and seals while you have the motor out. Do the timing belt, all idlers and new tensioner. While you have it off good time to do crank and cam seals. Reseal the rear separator plate, but DON'T do the rear main seal if it isn't leaking.

That's some expensive gear oil! It shouldn't cost that much...

Oops, I didn't notice the thread jack and thought the OP wanted a phase2 in his 96.

The 97 ej22 IS interference. It has different pistons than the previous models and has a bit more power. They can also blow head gaskets. That's what I spent the better part of my day today working on...

Mine hasn't ever had an issue..

He can't swap a phase2 ej25 into it though without a stupid amount of work.

Hope the chains don't need replaced at 105k! I don't want to know what that repair bill would cost

The negatively switched system throws everyone the first time they deal with it.