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SOHC starting in 1999/2000 depending on which subaru. Not sure if they are HLA after 05, HLAs don't usually have much issues though. Timing belt is 105k on all subies. You don't have to pull the engine to adjust valves, the DOHC engine in your 97 has a really stupid valvetrain making it expensive to adjust. Plugs on SOHC engines are much easier to change as they aren't in the middle of the head between the cams.

Thanks for the advise. It IS a subaru system, even under the hood it says if you remove the battery you have to turn on the key and push the button under the dash to make the alarm stop if you don't have the remote. That's why I was wondering if I could just get another same-type subaru remote and have two. I'll have to search for the brain. The ignition switch must plug into it for the ignition disable, so I'll start by tracking were that wire goes.

It's probably your ignition cylinder going. When turning it off lift up, or push down on the key a bit. Might help. But it's just going to get worse. Eventually one morning you're going to have a very hard time turning it on, then, it'll get stuck in run and won't turn off. After that when you finally replace the ignition cylinder you'll have to take a hacksaw to the old one to get the key out of it so you can still open your doors. Wonder how I know about that one ...

You wouldn't need a big cap, just a 555 timer and transistor. Then it would be a very small cap. My 98 GT limited has the light that "fades out". It doesn't really fade, a relay under the dash clicks and it's off. And it has nothing to do with the resistance of the bulb, because I have an LED in mine. The light stays on for maybe a minute, but shuts off immediately when I lock the doors with the remote or turn on the ignition. I bet you could steal the control box for that from a JY car. Usually with that stuff you can just unplug two connectors and put the control box in between them in the cars that didn't come with it from the factory, that way Subaru doesn't have to make different wiring harnesses. Just plug in different accessories.

So I found this on cars101 http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code%20alarm That's the one I have. But it doesn't give a whole lot of information. And neither does my owners manual. My manual gives info on the other sysetm, the one with the round key button. Which is a very different system, had an outback with that. Not the same at all. I also haven't found the button under the dash yet, just means I haven't looked hard enough..... Anyway, anyone have more info on the system? I'm specifically wondering if I can get another remote so I have two. It gives instructions on programming a remote to the system, but if I just get a random remote, will it accept both? Also, what exactly is valet mode? What does it do?

Most people on here just replace the whole tensioner, as they tend to wear out over time and fail.

You're not supposed to have more than 1/4" circumference difference between any two tires.

When my driveshaft was going bad it made these clunky noises. But going slow and straight if I put it in 4wd the clunking went away or changed.

That has the one-piece driveshaft, right? If it does, you can't just remove it or all your transmission gear oil will leak out. With the two-part ones you can just remove the rear section

Dealing with wiring under the dash is a pain in the neck

All the subarus I've seen from the 90 with an alarm system have that sort of oval black remote with the grey buttons on it. And the alarm is just hooked up to the horn. But my 98GT has a different one. The remote is square, black, with two black square buttons. It does say SUBARU on it. So it's not some aftermarket company. Dealer option? It has this really obnoxious siren that I cut the wire to, and a red button inside that lights up on the dash. I'm looking for info on how to program it, I can find all kinds of stuff for the other type, but nothing for this. It only unlocks the driver's door, no matter how many times I hit the unlock button. So then I have to hit the unlock all button inside. Annoying, is there any way I can program it to unlock all on the second press of unlock, like every other car out there? Thanks.

Some of them you turn it off and on. My GT has a really weird subaru alarm system with a red button you push. You have to turn on the ignition and hold in the button at the same time to disarm. And it doesn't always work...

You actually dump the seafoam in your oil? How much do you put in, and what do you do before changing it? Drive it around? just let it idle for 10 minutes? I'm looking for success stores with seafoam because I'm in need of cleaning out an engine I got recently.

I had a lifter start ticking in my legacy two winters ago from a -30F start. It ticked for two oil changes straight, then one day just randomly stopped. Came and went for about a year after that, and now totally gone. At first it was REALLY loud, sounded like my engine was going to let go, and got steadily quieter over time... I wouldn't worry much about it. It's not going to hurt anything.

Around that time there were two implementations of the subaru alarm system. (at least from what's sitting in my driveway). One, when the alarm is going off the horn honks like crazy. With this type turn the key on and off 5 times. So from off to run and back off. Two, it has a really obnoxious siren under the hood that makes a terrible noise every time you lock, unlock, etc. That's what my 98LGT has. It probably has it's wire cut like I did mine. With this type push the red flashy button on the dash and turn the key to on. Hold it for a second, should disarm the system. Sometimes it works for mine.... sometimes not. Since you don't have the remote, I suggest just completely disabling the alarm system all together.

Only one teeeny little spot on a rear quarter :| I'll quench that, and that's it! Needs a new front left quarter panel, but that's easy. I have one lined up as soon as the car melts out of the polar snow cap.

So an update. Last week I finished the ej22 swap. It didn't go too bad, nothing major went wrong. It isn't registered or anything yet, but I've had it for a few quick rides up and down the road. Runs great!

The headlights switch in either direction. You just have to change the connectors.

Just put a rag around the line as you pull it off. Fuel doesn't squirt out or anything crazy. Not much even drips out.

You should be able to find a nice 2.5D DOHC subaru with a blown engine... I just picked up a really nice GT for 400, and right now on graigslist near me there's another GT for 600, could probably be talked down. If you can do the engine swap yourself, it leaves you in a good place. $500 sounds steep for the buy back, unless it's a really nice good condition engine, not worth it. You can pick up ej22s much cheaper than that.

Good point if you're putting the same engine back in

Just another little note. Put tape around fuel lines to mark which ones go where. There are three of them, two are the same size. If you put them back on wrong it won't work. Same with heater core lines. Take the extra minute to mark it, that way you'll be sure to get it back together the right way. Also vacuum lines, if you're not sure you'll be able to get them all back on where they're supposed to go, mark them. If it doesn't start when you put it all back together it makes troubleshooting that much easier.

I use bolts that are just a tad longer than the original studs. They can't really be too long.

When the engine and transmission are mated, there should be a gap between the flex plate and the torque converter. If there isn't, you did it wrong. If they contact before the engine and tranny are mated, you did it wrong. It's about that simple...

That sounds pretty nice... Just did an engine swap in below freezing temps...