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I'd love to drive back down there at some point, it's just a REALLY long drive from Maine in a ragged out on GL... Taking the outback down would be a bit more realistic. Alternately, I need to hurry up and graduate from school so I can get a good job and afford an airplane... Ocracoke has an airport

Huh, I messed something up, I'll try again.

Nope, in 99 they used a phase2 block (52mm rod bearings, 8 bolt bellhousing) with phase1 pistons and heads (DOHC). From the outside this appears like a phase1 engine and can be put into earlier cars. For that matter, you can put pretty much any subaru heads on any subaru block... my 2000 outback has a 96 2.2l block with the stock 00 heads...

Does it make the noise while sitting still in neutral, foot off the clutch?

It's just the block that's phase2 in 99. It still has DOHC heads. The only way to tell the difference between phase1 and 2 blocks (besides taking them apart) is 8 bolt bellhousing on the phase2. All 99 legacy/outbacks with a 2.5 are DOHC.

That's a cool picture! I have one of my GL just one island south, on Ocracoke.

The internals are different, but you can put a 99 2.5 into a 96. You might have to use the 96 intake manifold on the 99 engine, I'm unsure there. But it will work. The 99 block has 8 bellhousing bolts as opposed to 4 on your car, just use the original 4 that are in your trans. It'll be fine.

That won't cause any balance problems, if that's what you're thinking. If you're really worried, break a chip out of the other side, too The dual cam 2.5s spin rod bearings because that's their MO, a chip in the balancer isn't gonna do spoob.

Recently I've done... NOTHING to my subaru. GLs are great and run forever For my outback, however, I ordered a lot of expensive spoob to do the headgaskets and stuff. I'm sick of that car being dead, it needs to be fixed, junked, sold, used, something. But sitting in the woods... nope.

Yea, you still have to remember to fasten the lap belt, if you don't they're kinda more dangerous. There's a reason cars don't have them anymore, though...

Oh, I got rid of the auto seatbelts. Worst things ever. I dunno how many times I got whacked in the head by the stupid things.

I kept mine so I could still slide it forward/backward. I'm tall and have long legs, so the GL is a small fit for me anyway.

EJ seats sit A LOT higher. I put some impreza seats or something in my GL, and ended up having to do a lot of cutting and welding of the rails to make it low enough for me.

Why not just have the heads decked to raise the compression?

You shouldn't lug the engine down, regardless that shouldn't cause it to overheat. I'd first check to make sure it isn't low on coolant. If it's not low on coolant the radiator may be partially clogged. It's probably not a headgasket problem. My outback was doing the same thing, increased RPMs increases coolant flow and thus cooling. With a partially clogged radiator that's the difference between overheating and not overheating. Replacing the radiator and installing a new OEM subaru thermostat fixed the problem for me.

If there's air getting in the system, hate to say it, probably HG. They start slowly so you keep thinking it's something else.

Coolant almost never mixes with oil when headgaskets go on these engines, it blows exhaust into the cooling system. The reason it overheats and you lose the heater is because a pocket of air forms in the thermostat, it closes, the pump cavitates, and coolant stops getting pumped through the heater core. I'm not sure why you'd have coolant in the transmission, that only happens when the cooling tubes in the radiator go bad which is rare and has nothing to do with headgaskets.

Thing is with a 3.0 it already has fairly high compression. I'd probably want a lower compression set of pistons before dumping a turbo on it. Second issue is engine management. I'm not sure if the 2005 computer can be tuned or not to support a turbo. The whole process would be a lot of work and cost a lot of money.... Probably quite a lot of money. BUT it would be totally awesome. If you have the time and money to work on this project... I'm excited to see videos of it

It's almost certainly a blown headgasket. If you look in the overflow tank you'll probably see bubbles.

This is often caused my loose hose clamps on the fuel rails. There are a few sorta hidden ones under the intake manifold. It's a common enough issue you can find a decent amount of information on how to fix it. It almost always happens when it's cold, then goes away when it warms up just like your'e describing. Don't tell the people you're buying it from that it's an easy fix... Use it as a bargaining point.

That won't work on a 99 forester, will it? Those have a single cam 2.5 engine and a few different things from the phase1 cars.

Pull the front hubcaps, if you have them. Set the parking brake, put it in FWD, put it in first gear. get out of the car and look to see if one of the front axle nuts is turning. That would mean you have a stripped spline in the hub. Usually this is the most common reason for your problem. If it isn't that, open the hood and check to see what's turning... Just an axle cup on one side, an axle shaft, etc. Something in the front end is disconnected between the transmission and one of the front wheels. DISCLAIMER!!!!! SOMEONE IS GONNA TELL ME YOU COULD RUN YOURSELF OVER DOING THIS IF THE CAR MAGICALLY STOPS BEING BROKEN. (like the ea82 has enough torque to do that...)

I guess I forgot to mention manual, and probably automatic forester XTs use a 4.44 diff as well, but you probably won't just run across one of those kicking about...

It's 4.44. You can use the diff out of any automatic outback, automatic forester, or automatic legacy GT up to 2004. Maybe beyond, but I dunno later than that. I don't know about VDC or 6 cylinders either, but those listed are 4.44 for the 2.5/auto.

That's badass!