987687

99 and 2000 are the prime years to avoid for the automatic transmission.

Are you 100% sure you put the timing belt back on correctly?

Speaking of GD... What ever happened to him? I haven't seen him on here, and his last post was months ago.

Yep! Now I don't know about the 90-94 stuff, since the way a VR sensor works they might have used a different one for cam and crank. But the receptacles in the block and head are physically the same. And in the world of obd2 engines and hall effect sensors, cam and crank sensors are the same thing.

Well it really comes down to the fact that 90-94 uses a variable reluctor sensor, whereas the later models use a hall effect sensor. All EJ blocks and heads are designed to accept either kind of sensor, and cam/crank sensors are the same. Which is pretty damn amazing on Subaru's part, to be honest. Find me any other manufacture that thought that far ahead. Makes swapping things around a dream. However, it puts the onus on the end user to buy the correct sensor for the application.

You have to use a 90-94 one.

DO NOT BREAK THE PINCH BOLT. You'll hate your life if you break it.

A balljoint costs $15, so you're saying they're charging $135 on labor to do a balljoint... That seems kinda steep to me. It depends how much you wanna frig around with it.

There's a possibility you used low quality seals (not the brown ones), or didn't fully seat them into the bore. I'd check all 4 and the crank seal. If one lets loose, how far behind do you think the rest are?

I'm guessing whatever the check engine light is for will be a great clue as to what the problem is. You probably have something like the IACV unplugged. For what it's worth, a high idle when cold is 100% how it's supposed to work. It's done that every day since it was brand new. It's a little 4 cylinder, it's going to idle a bit high when cold. As long as it comes down when it's warmed up, you have nothing to worry about.

Unless the brakes have been swapped from something way newer, 15" rims will clear anything from the 90's.

Pull the distributor cap and make sure that one, the rotor screw hasn't fallen out. And two, does the rotor turn when you crank the motor. If it doesn't, the timing belt is broken.

If you're gonna tow that much, you should definitely have trailer brakes, and a transmission cooler. I've done some stupid things towing, and I had a scary experience towing around 2000lbs without trailer brakes on a subaru.

You're really lucky. You have a lot of bolt sticking out. Do not start by drilling that, you have a gift there. Heat it and use vice grips to wind it out. Or weld a nut to it, or something. But you don't go start drilling when you have a piece of the fastener sticking up. Drilling bolts out of the engine SUCKS. Try to avoid it.

Hopefully you didn't blindly cut off the old connector without seeing where the wires went... Whenever I do these, I cut one wire at a time. Cut a wire off the old connector, and match it up to the same pin on the new connector. If you do it one at a time, you won't get lost.

The temperature sensors are on the coolant crossover pipe under the intake manifold.

Don't solder it. Use heatshrink crimp connectors. I don't like soldering on car wiring anyway. Where the soldered wire transitions to not soldered wire there's a hard spot. Over time and vibration, it has a tendancy to break right there. Crimping with the sealing heatshrink connectors is the best way. I do a lot of marine work, and it's the same deal there. If I can use a crimp, that's the best option.

Every damn one does that. Go to an autoparts store and buy a replacement connector. I know napa has them. I've had more than one of those connector melt on more than one car, they eventually changed it around 97.

You do realize you have to rewire the car for this to work... right? Anyway, to answer your question. Just use whatever transmission is in the car. If it's an auto, swap the flexplate to the new motor, if it's a manual, swap the clutch assembly. Preferably replace the clutch while it's apart. All EJ bellhousings are the same, so it's a direct mechanical swap.

So your radiator is leaking? Probably has a cracked end tank. There isn't much to do about that besides get a new one.

The synchro is getting tired. There isn't much to do. You can change the transmission oil with subrau extra-S. Sometimes that considerably helps. Over the summer my outback completely lost 3rd gear synchro. It can be double clutched into gear just fine, it's just finicky. But it's not a terribly uncommon problem for these.

The EG33 has one sprocket for the timing belt. But under the valve covers the cams are actually connected by gears.

Well in 97 they changed the PISTONS. This is what makes 97+ 2.2 an interference engine, it has nothing to do with the heads. a 96 ej25 MIGHT have non-interferance pistons, becasue it's pre-97.

If you wanna go down that road... ea81. You guys can have fun with your non interference engines relying on a rubber belt to keep it working... I'll stick with my gear driven cam.

Yea, the pistons in 97+ make everything piston/valve interferance. I don't get the whole non-interferance obsession, to be honest. It's a damn good thing the ea82 is, becasue those stupid things blow belts off all the time. But an EJ will almost never ever break a belt witin its 105k interval. Changing the belt and componests is a walk in the park. If you're worried, spend some money and time, and don't worry anymore.