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I dunno about brands, but DON'T let that nasty stuff into your heater core. If it's getting old and tired, it's possible for that spoob to eat holes in it. Loop the lines back or something, but I've seen radiator flush eat a hole in a heater core.

There's a good chance you can get away with just new valves, no way to know till you take it appart.

When photobucket goes into overload, you can right click on the image and open it in a new tab. Or copy/paste the image URL. Then you can load the image and see it. You just can't see it embedded if photobucket goes into overload.

Yea, I'd probably just use an angle grinder to minimize vibrations, at least on the last few cuts when everything is getting loose.

Thanks for all the suggestions! I'm not sure if having a glass place remove the window will work since it's at a junkyard. Gloyale, that's a great suggestion about the plastic bag. The window is completely shattered, but didn't actually fall out of the hole yet (not sure how that's possible....) I currently have it coated in tape so if/when it does come out it won't make a mess. This is the tool I've seen work pretty well. Obviously super expensive, but if I could rent one that would be cool. My other idea was just to take my sawzall and cut the entire window frame out of the car. And bring the whole mess to a glass shop... Not sure if they'd do that for a reasonable price or not.

I broke the right rear quarter glass on my outback, I'm an idiot. Anyway, what's the procedure to replace it? I'm gonna rent a glass removal tool (hopefully) and grab one from the junkyard, so I'm sure I'll see how it works after I practice there.... But can anyone tell me what I'm in for? I don't know how to remove the top plastic trim piece, also do I need to replace the window gasket? The hardest part will probably be removing one without breaking it, but the glass is something like $350 new, so yea, forget that.

If you're putting 2.5 heads on a 2.2, you should use 25 headgasktes. Otherwise the firing ring will be inside the head chamber. Auto and manual engines interchange, so that doesn't matter. You need to use a flexplate that matches the transmission, anyway.

The synchros are likely worn out. When I got a new trans for my GL from bratman (the old one was way pooched) it shifted alright and everything. But it was sluggish and ground a bit going into gears. The oil just looked old and dark. I put fresh stuff in there, and damn, it works completely awesome now. So if it's not too far gone, it may help.

I've fit an ej22 with the crank pulley and bottom bell housing studs removed into the back of a first gen impreza sedan.... A taurus is much larger than that. Also a good trick is to remove the spare tire, gives a huge amount of extra room in the trunk of any car.

Sure, rotate the cam until the non bumpy part of the cam shaft is on the bucket/shim, then check the clearance. Repeat till you've checked them all.

Be super duper ridiculously careful not to loosen the band adjustment all the way... This will ruin your day.

The filter is more than a screen and should be changed. You should also drop the pan, even if it does have an external filter. You need to clean the pan out and clean the metal off the magnet. This will also let you see what's floating around in there.

In maine, everything the state knows about you get taxed on. If you sell a car and declare it, you pay tax on that income, like any other income. Not only that, when you buy a car you have to pay a first time excise tax on it. So that sale is getting taxed twice.... It's really ridiculous. Income tax is around 7%, keeps moving around. But you pay 7, and your employer pays about 7. And on top of that you pay like $400, just because. Since I'm self employed, I get nailed with about 14% income tax, get no benefits, nothing. Heh. If you're a student going to school? They don't really care about you... Pay the same as everyone else and have fun being poor. Of course you still have to pay federal taxes on top of all this, no getting out of that.

Oh see in Maine they like to get as much money as possible out of you. So you pay property tax on anything you own... Boats, cars, houses, property, anything you declare to the state you get taxed on. If it has to be registered, you bet they'll tax your rump roast to the bone.

Do you have to pay tax, though? Here tax and tags are lumped into one bill at the same time, but if I look at the break down about $50 is tax, and the other $30 is tags. On the outback it's a bit more ridiculous like $120 in tax... I should just stop owning newer cars. The vast majority of my expense is in fuel... I drive about 35k/year, so that adds up really fast. Hopefully next year at school I'll be in biking distance from everything.... if I can get it under 10k a year that would rule.

Well when you're teaching him, every time he grinds gears it is a humiliating kick in the crotch as daddy grips the oh spoob handle and stares alone into the distance. So I'm sure he'll learn how to drive it in no time.

Octane is calculated differently in the US than it is in Australia, NZ, Japan, etc. I'm not sure what Europe uses for their octane rating. But it ends up being about the same as what we have here. Your 91 comes out to about 87 US octane ratings, 98 is around 93/94 which is what most states in the US have for premium.

It's not required to insure an antique in WA? Damn.... wow. That would be a poor life choice haha. That's crazy for insurance! I don't think I paid more than $1000/year when I was 17, also, my 00 outback is almost 3x the cost to insure than the 89 GL. Puzzle that one out...

Costs me $250/year to insure my GL. Costs me $80/year to register my GL Gas is $3.55 or so here, and now it's going up again... Inspection is $12.50/year. But I only do mine every now and again. I forget, it's currently 4 months over. Oops, it's a $133 fine. Unless you get it done the next day and take it to court. The judge says go away. Still a waste of time.

Is he sure the timing belt is on correctly and not off a tooth?

Yea, it's actually stuck to the brake rotor or brake drum, technically. I do the same thing between rotor and hub so those don't stick together.

It has nothing to do with the lugs being on tight. They get stuck over time, anyway. Especially open ended ones. All steel rims rust them selves stuck to the car. That's what happens when two steel things are soaked in salt water all winter. heh. Just had to do rear brakes on my mom's 09 outback. It had new tires put on it last spring, so the wheels haven't been off for a year. I had to beat the ever living piss out of them with a dead blow to get them off.

You're trying to get a rim off the wheel?? That doesn't make any sense. You mean the wheel is rusted stuck to the hub? I assume you got all the lug nuts off? Steel rims getting rusted on is nothing really uncommon. I have a gigantic deadblow hammer to get them free. If you can't get it off with a hammer, the other option... is not to drive around like an idiot with no lug nuts. That'll ruin other stuff. Put the lug nuts back on finger tight, then back them off two turns. Put the car on the ground, go about 10mph and slam the brakes on hard. That'll loosen it up. Jack it back up and see if it's loose.

Well it'll likely eventually get burned out. Then that cylinder will lose compression. But if you're driving it into the ground, keep driving. Even if you lose a cylinder, it'll still run, just kinda shitty. I drove a 2.2 almost 200 miles with a blown out spark plug to get home. It'll still go alright.

Why not just swap the hatch?