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They shouldn't have play in the driveline... I'm helping my friend build a stage rally car. We've put bushings everywhere and new struts. As soon as you hit the gas the car launches forward. No waiting for the driveline and getting a BANG and it all catches up. But as has been said, trailing arms are the worst offenders.

Yea, well, all internally regulated alts work more or less the same way. The air chisel is one of my most favourite tools. It's fantastic for beating the crap out of things and making pulleys and whatever else you want come off.

If you hooked up the sense and idiot light wires backwards, it's likely that nothing would happen, it just wouldn't work. But when you get the parts, bring it all over, air tools will make it easier anyway.

There are only two wires, hook them up until it works, or blows smoke I need to replace the start capacitor on my air compressor, then I can attack the pulleys with air tools. I'm too lazy to do it by hand, heh.

Huh, as long as it bolts up the wiring doesn't really matter. All alts are gonna have a sense wire and a charge light wire. So if you're wiring the wrong alt to work it's the same thing no matter what you're stuffing in.

Wow, fantastic info. EJ alts from 90-99? or something should be the same with the two wire connector. I have a few laying around, time to go see if i can replace the tired old alt in my GL.

Unless your cat is clogged, you're probably not going to notice anything. I gutted my rear cat because I smashed it up against a rock and broke the stuff inside which caused it to clog. After gutting it, I didn't notice any difference from before. I'm probably gonna go to jail now for ruining the environment.

Oh durr I just saw that you said 2013. Regardless, the back seat should have a pull cord somewhere in the crack between the seat bottom and seat back. It used to be on the passenger side. Pulling it will release the bottom and let the seat flip up.

What are the codes? There are a few different codes that point to IAC, etc. Knowing the exact codes help with diagnosing the issue.

Well, in the middle bottom of the seat back there should be a plastic holder thing. This is for clipping the seat belt receivers in. That way they don't ruin the leather. Alternately, you can flip up the seat bottom, remove the head rests, and fold the seats all the way down. It gives your more cargo area, and then the leather isn't touching so it shouldn't produce this condition.

You're probably looking at videos of 1999 and earlier outbacks. In 2000 they completely 100% changed the rear design. In the older ones, yes, you can swap the trailing arm out with two bolts in your driveway. With your 2002, the trailing arm, knuckle, and lateral links are essentially conglomerated into one massive arm that sucks to work on. But the shop is wrong to an extent, you don't have to pull the arm to change the bushings, you can just drop it at the mount and burn the old bushing out. Saw the bushing sleeve, and hammer it out with a cold chisel. Aftermarket bushings don't have to be pressed in, so you don't have to remove the arm and bring it to a press. Overall it's not a terrible job, and certainly don't have to completely disassemble the suspension.

Can you take a picture of the cams and crank pulley? It's impossible that it's been running for 20k miles with the crank pulley 45° off. Even if it did run.

HAHA I love that question. And yes, if I'm looking for parts for my ea81 engine, I ask for an 84. If I'm looking for parts for anything else on my ea82 car, I just say 90 loyale. For some odd reason loyale parts are more often correct than GL parts.......

That's awesome, exactly what I wanted to hear! Don't worry about pics, I trust your word on this. If it lifts the car 1/2" I don't care, that's not really noticeable. Also, stiffer springs will probably make it handle less like a bag of limp dicks.

Hmm, interesting tip on the baja springs. I don't want any lift, though. That's the thing, I just want more stiff. It's not all the time I'm hauling heavy stuff, but often enough to be annoying. So temporary things OR stiffer non-lift springs would work.

Why will that work? nowhere on that link does it say it'll work for an Outback. It needs to have the correct size notches for the springs and the correct spacing. If it's not the correct part and I have to modify it, I may as well just make one from scratch in the first place.

The number one thing that causes this is probably the trailing arm bushings. It's insane what a different they make. After that, it's your engine and transmission mounts getting tired.

I've searched, but can't find what I'm looking for. I'm trying to find spring stiffeners for my '00 Outback. The back springs are ridiculously soft in this car, makes it utterly useless for hauling lots of stuff. Not sure why Subaru did this, anyway, if there are any spring stiffeners I could just throw on when I'm hauling stuff, and pull out when I'm unloaded, that would be cool. Here are examples of why I need to make springs stiffer sometimes..

It seems that every filter, napa, autozone, etc. Are much bigger than the tiny oem filters. I dunno why, but I've never had a problem with them.

Well, in 96 they changed to a single port header. 97 was the first year the were interference. So if it has dual exhaust ports, it's a clearance engine. If it has single port exhaust, pull off the valvecover. In 97 they changed from hydraulic adjusters to solid adjusters. So if it has solid adjusters it's interference.

There appears to be quite a bit of room infront of the engine in that video.... Probably enough to stuff an eg33 under the hood. THAT would rule.

Just put an LS1 in it. It's a well documented swap, and the LS1 isn't very heavy.

I think the OEM one starts as nice soft rubber hose, then goes hard over the years because it's constantly covered in oil and lots of heat.

I just went out and measured a block that's kicking around my garage. 3/4"

You mean the big one that comes out from the top of the separator place? With the plastic fitting that always cracks and ruins your day? Yea, IIRC you don't have to remove that, it helps, but it isn't needed. You should only have to pull off the one that goes to the IACV. It makes the job much easier just to remove the IACV, so if it needs to be cleaned, now is a great chance to do it.