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You can't check the fluid with the engine off. Half the fluid in the torque converter (a few quarts) drains back into the pan when the engine is off, therefor it's going to be WAAAY overfull when not running. When the pump is going, it keeps the whole torque converter full, thus why you have to check with the engine running. The cold mark is ambiguous because it depends on how cold it actually is. If you start the engine up in the middle of the winter and check the fluid it's obviously going to be colder than starting it up in the summer and checking the fluid. This is why you should always drive a few miles before you can get an accurate reading. Just idling the engine up to temp won't necessarily bring the fluid up to temp, you have to actually drive it.

Dumb question, but you're checking it with the engine running in park, correct? Sometimes it helps to leave the dipstick out for a minute to let the fluid in the tube drain back a bit. If you keep dragging the dipstick in and out, it coats the wall of the tube in fluid and makes false readings.

For not too much coin you can get something like this, that's a nice small tip low wattage iron that'll be good for what you're doing. A jeweler's magnifying glass can help, too. Or any one that's on a stand that can sit over your work, just helps see the tiny stuff you're working on.

He's the worlds tallest hobbit.

I'd fill the cylinder with MMO or some other light oil for a few days to get the rust out of the rings. Then carefully try to turn it so the piston goes down in the bore. Then your best bet is probably a brass wire wheel and carefully take the rust off the cylinder walls. It should be fine. It's an ea81, you can't kill 'em.

When I worked at a shop I replaced more subaru oil pans than I can count, plus the pan on two of my own subarus. You don't have to hoist the engine up, just unbolt the exhaust, dog bone, engine mount nuts, then jack the whole thing up from the front diff/transmission. I've done it on my own car with nothing more than just a spare tire jack and a small set of sockets. It's not a hard job, just a shitty job because you're laying under a car with oil dripping on your face trying to access bolts with crap access.

You even made it in on page 66 of the thread

EJ22 heads aren't that heavy, maybe 30lbs each, or thereabouts. Today I lifted an ej22 longblock without accessories into the back of my outback without completely killing myself, and I'm not really a big guy. It can't be much over 200, if even that much.

My dual cam 98 legacy GT had the later style tensioner on it.

The other thing I do is take an air chisel to the top of the tie rod bolt. If you're careful you won't bugger it up, that's like hitting it with a hammer thousand times a second. Usually works well fo ball joints.

Have you tried the hitting it with a hammer trick? I know this pic is of an EJ, but it's the exact same thing for any car, really. Take a good sized BFH and smack where I circled in red. Don't hit the tie rod or you'll break it. This will jar everything loose and the tie rod end will just pop out undamaged. Make sure the nut is all the way off when you do this.

Sorry, I get all caught up in being lazy and using jargon. Hopefully it we can get it all worked out on Sunday.

95 is a non-interferance engine. If you're not going to change the tensioners, honestly, I don't see the point in changing the belt. Usually they fail because one of the tensioners (usually the teethed one) or waterpump seizes or falls apart. Currently I have brand new in box a timing belt for that engine and the big bearing for the tensioner. I'm actually going to be up in Orono this weekend selling an engine to someone, if you want, I'll let you have those things cheap. edit: there's also a bnib waterpump in there.

It looks like the EGR tube

Once you pull the seals out of a sealed bearing, they're almost impossible to get back in without leaking. I read somewhere that someone took one seal out of each bearing, cleaned all the grease out and packed them with good quality stuff. They put the open end of each bearing inside the cavity of the knuckle and put grease in there, too. I think that's an absolutely fantastic idea. Leaves lots of grease to flow to the bearings, and it's an extra layer of security to keep water out. I'm definitely going to do this next time I have to do a bearing on my car.

I've never heard of USBB before, make sure they aren't some chinese rebrand before you buy it. I've wasted so much time buying crappy cheap wheel bearings, then having to replace them. I learned my lesson a few times on that trying to be cheap.

I don't know if the ECU will like the signal out of a wideband, it's tuned to work with the sensor it was designed for... I guess the best way would be to add a bung for the wideband sensor, or maybe there's one that will work with the ECU. What are you trying to accomplish here? I don't really see the reason in installing a a/f on a stock 2.2.

I take it you're doing front bearings on an ea82 GL? That's completely ridiculous overpriced. Here's a post GD made about wheel bearings - There's a lot of good information in that thread. The 2RS bearings mentioned there are sealed units, so you can just put them in, slap in some new seals and run it. To get the old one off use a puller, if you have one. Or hit it with a hammer, grind through the races so it just slides off, etc. You don't need to save the bearing, just don't beat up the axle.

01 legacy will be exactly the same as what's described here.

GC imprezas are the 90's ones, GD are bugeyes.

I took it off, wire wheeled down the rust and hit it with some POR15, so hopefully it doesn't rust out. I've had to replace these before, and it's not fun.

You really need a wide band o2 sensor for an a/f gauge, the stock one won't give a very useful reading. Regardless, it should be pretty easy to figure out which wire is which. One will be +12v, one will be ground, the third is the signal wire you want.

Being a GD it should have the external reservoir, not the one that sits up on top of the pump.

I wouldn't install bosch platinum plugs in anything... I used them in an ej22 once, it ran crappy, and after a couple weeks ran horrible. This is how the plugs came out. (I'm aware the screw thingy on the top is missing, but it was there when it was in the car, that's not why it ran bad) After I changed to ngk coppers, it was fine.

I've never taken a pulley off, so no idea there. But it's probably just a 19mm nut on a keyed or tapered shaft. I don't know the exact sizes that hold the pump to the bracket. But it's probably either 12 or 14mm, and the banjo bolt is probably 17. All common subaru sizes.