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Only the 6 cylinder has a timing chain. No 4 cylinder till the new FB things has a chain. The AT temp light should come on when you turn on the key before you start the engine. All the lights on the dash do, that you know the bulb works. That's normal. It'll go out after a second or two.

Your best bet is to find a starter at the junk yard. Depending on their price, take the whole thing, or just that part off it. That red thing is an insulator, so yes, it's fairly important.

If you're 100% sure the timing is correct, it sounds like an air leak. Check to make sure the hose on the IACV isn't disconnected. That one is easy to knock off when putting the intake system together.

The CEL flashes when there's a constant misfire. Was it wet while this was happening? Raining or really damp? When plug wires are chafing or starting to wear out, they'll arc only when it's damp, then the problem will clear up when it's dry. If it happens again try to figure out if it's running rich (ie. injector is firing, but plug isn't). It should smell strongly of gas out the exhaust. If you pull the plug it'll be wet. If it's not running rich and/or you confirm the plug is firing while it has a misfire, it's likely an injector issue.

Swap that plug wire with a different one. See if the misfire moves. If not, pull the plug and see what it looks like. #2 is fairly easy to get to on that engine.

Oh wow, that's a fantastic idea!! That's an amazing way to pull it straight off. I'm gonna go find the right size pipe for this asap and see what I can do. I might have to destroy the sheet metal shield thing around the base of the axle, but if that's what it takes to get it apart. That's not really that bad.

I honestly really dislike ip.board. Is there any way to "follow" all the previous threads I'm subscribed to? You don't get an email notification unless you're following a thread on this software. And I don't want to have to check for updates on the actual forum all the time. I have auto follow turned on when I reply to a thread, it's just threads I haven't replied to since the update.

IIRC it's a 50hz square wave. I had pictures and a video of when I had my 98 legacy automatic, I'm tearing my hair out trying to find them. This sis annoying. Friend of mine has an 02 legacy auto, next time I'm up there I can do some probing with the scope while he's driving.

I try to avoid giving in and taking things to the local machine shop. haha. But the know me pretty well, and ya, they'll do stuff for $5 for me if it's something really easy. There is only one autoparts store around here, it's NAPA, and they don't loan tools. Which is unfortunate.

I've bought it from a few places around here. Hardware store has small sheets, and usually overpriced. The last one I got was a 3'x4' sheet from napa, which was also a bit pricey. If you ask nicely body shops will often sell you a sheet, and sometimes metal supply places have it.

The seals are hard and cracked letting water in. It seems I used poor quality of seals. I took the bearings out, and they look fine. So I washed everything, repacked the bearings with new grease, and put in new seals. All should be well. I actually thought about using a bearing separator as a wedge between the two parts, unfortunately I don't have one. I made a wedge thing like that, and that's how I broke my vice... As to the reason I want it apart. That way I can replace axles easier without pulling the damn thing through the hub (and as NorthWet stated, new axles come without the part that goes through the hub). If I'm offroad or at a rallyX, and I blow up a rear axle again. It's a 2 minute swap, and I don't worry about getting dirt and mud in the bearing. I can leave that nightmare to the front axles

That's a really nice repair! I'm gonna have to walk around the junk yard with a grinder and sawzall to see what I can find for mine. I've always just welded sheet metal over the hole, but that's a good way of doing it.

Axle, half shaft, driveshaft, it's all the same thing to me. Although I usually accosciate driveshaft with the one that does from the trans to the diff. Yes, it can be installed the way it is. And if I can't get it apart today, that's what's gonna happen. I just want it to be apart... that's all. It needs new rear wheel bearings again anyway at some point, so I'll take another crack at it while I'm doing that.

The vice was gonna break sooner than later anyway. Even if I were to get a new one, I still need to get the stubshaft out.

That's ridiculously steep for a 99. Also, don't buy anything 99 or 00 with an automatic transmission. 99/00 have the delayed engagement issue, they fixed it by 01.

Grumble, whatever. I took a pic of the stupid thing. The other one won't come apart like this....

I have no idea how a puller is going to help. I'm not talking about the diff end. I have a puller, and there's nothing to attach it to.

That thread is going to be very useful when I start tearing other crap apart. But for now, I'm stuck with the other end. I have it out of the hub. It's the axle with the stub axle stuck in the CV (outer) end of the shaft. I don't even know how to apply force to it, there's no good way to beat on it, and now my vice is broken, stupid POS. I'm completely sure someone has beat the crap out of these things before and knows how to get them apart. I don't feel like taking a picture of it. It's a CV shaft stuck to a stubshaft. If you've taken one of these apart before, you know what I'm talking about. If you don't know what I'm talking about, you obviously haven't had this problem.

The stubshaft or whatever you call it that goes through the hub is VERY VERY stuck to the axle (yes the roll pin is out). It's all out soaking in atf/acetone right now because I broke my vice, and got tired of hitting it with a hammer. What's the best way to get this stupid thing apart? I'm really pissed off at it.... Sure I can install it like that, but I don't want to.

It also helps (and this is true for any calipers), to open the bleeder screw while you push or thread the piston in. This way you're just pushing fluid out the bleeder, not through the whole system. You also don't run the risk of pushing dirt out of the caliper into the braking system. This is especially important on ABS vehicles. If you get crap in the pump, it gets not happy. Sure you might get some air in the brake lines. But part of a proper brake service is bleeding, or even completely changing the fluid.

I had rod knock once. It turned out to be the timing belt idler on the passenger side of the engine. It looked fine with the engine running. But if I grabbed it, with the timing belt still on, I could move it in and out and feel general looseness in the idler. I just replaced it with a spare one from my parts pile, and it was better. No more rod knock.

That's a really fantastic photo!

No matter what gasket you use, you have to follow the Subaru head gasket dance. If you mess with the head bolts now, you're just gonna screw it up. Leave it alone and see what happens.

It has nothing to do with the head gasket torquing procedure. As has been stated before, only the ea82 needs a retorque after so many miles. The permatorque gaskets are preferred there because they don't need a retorque. But all of that is irrelevant on the EJ engines. On the ej251/2/3 the STi gaskets are preferred, that's just how it is. Permatorque is the line of headgaskets they make. You never have to retorque EJ head gaskets. Never, it's not something you have to do.

Pass and driver's side switches are different. The pinouts are the same, but the plugs are different and won't interchange. What nipper said. It happens to all of them eventually. In more or less any make of car. All heated seats work and fail the same way.