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You can, however, adjust jdm lights properly not to blind traffic in the US.

I believe the only 2.5 that's not valve to piston interference is the 96 ej25d. Because in 97 they changed the pistons in both the 2.2 and 2.5 and made them interference. But the valves in all dual cam motors are interference between intake and exhaust.

If it has 12k miles and needs service done, shouldn't it be free under warranty? I don't know how they can tell if it has carbon build up without removing them, sounds like you need to hammer on the gas more to keep everything clean

You didn't hurt anything just doing it once, just don't make it a habit. At least you know it works now!

Were you using 4wd on dry pavement? If you were, then yes, it's normal to bind up the driveline like that. It's also bad for it, don't use 4wd on dry pavement. Ever. It's fine on dirt, snow, if it's really rainy/hydroplaning on the highway, etc. But nice hard good traction surface, you'll break something using 4wd.

Ahhhh forgot about that

What 2.2 ever came with twin cam heads besides the 22b?

Yea, that sounds about right.

I have a friend who used a 2.2 bottom end with 2.5 SOHC heads on it. He says it's high 8's for compression. I can't remember what turbo he runs on it, but it makes 230whp, and has for the last year with no issues. And he doesn't treat the thing nice. It's built out of scrap parts from his shop and runs amazingly well.

It's an ej22, it works just perfectly fine how it is. No reason to go messing with it. Let it be and it'll keep lasting forever. If you have low oil pressure, put on a turbo oil pump, if you still have low oil pressure it's because the bearings are worn out. Plain and simple.

Just be warned that the ej25 isn't a jeep 4.0.... you actually need to keep coolant and oil in it (and even change it). You can drive a 4.0 with very little to no oil for a few years overheating the whole time, and it'll still work, a subaru will be all like LOL you suck. And die.

Huh, maybe I think the EA ones are easy because automatic EJ ones really suck to get to...

Really? I can replace mine in 5 minutes flat, it's really easy access. Maybe that's because I have an ea81 swapped in...

Yep, did that on my GL last year. Difference was night and day. Ridiculous.

This is one of my favourites "relentless power of her 1400cc quadrozontal engine" Makes me laugh every time

Sounds like the splines in one of the front hubs are striped out. Pop the center caps off the front wheels and look for damage. If you have a helper, try to drive it while they watch the front axle nut, if it's spinning but the wheels aren't, it's definitely a stripped out hub splines.

Is this an ea82? How low is it idling, if it's idling too low it might just be stalling because of that. First thing is to get a manual oil pressure gauge on there to see what the pressure actually is.

When I worked in a shop, I had a forester come in with a REALLY amazingly bad wheel bearing. They ruined the axle, hub, knuckle, rotor, caliper bracket, tire was rubbing stuff and it ruined the sidewall... They completely hosed EVERYTHING in the rear on that side. It was a very expensive repair which could have been avoided by just fixing the problem in the first place.

You also have to realize that a driveshaft is spinning about 4x faster than an axle, so balance is much more important.

Yea, stainless bailing wire works awesome for CV axles, and anything else. I keep a roll in my car. I've used it for all kinds of redneck repairs.

^ Yea, in a pinch, I've reused both kinds of band clamps. With a good pair of vice grips and a pair of pliers you can do it without too much trouble. Ideally I just use zip ties, though.

I grab the "tail" of the zip tie with a pair of pliers and just yank it sideways good and hard. That's always been good enough for me. As long as you get it tight enough so the boot doesn't slide around or whatever, you're good. By hand would probably work, but my hands are always too covered in grease to get a grip on anything by the time I'm installing boots.

Some of it is likely leaking out the bottom of the oil fill tube where it goes to the valve cover. Those o-rings always leak. Also, the oil pressure sender is probably leaking, those also leak fairly often.

Undo the axle boot clamp on the shaft and slide the boot about 1/2" inwards (over the retaining nub thingy, you'll see what I mean), then put a new clamp on it (heavy duty zip tie). I went from replacing axle boots all the time, to having the same axles on there for the last year. Also (and I don't know how correct a thing this is to do), I smear a thin coat of axle grease on the outside of the boot. At full droop if the rubber touches itself it won't overheat and wear through, and it helps keep the boot from drying out and cracking.

Part of the idea behind a doughnut gasket is it allows a certain amount of flex, which wouldn't work without springs. I've found it depends what gasket and/or spring bolt kit I use. The generic stuff I get from napa always has bolts that are too short so I end up using vicegrips to compress the springs to get the nut started. After that, zip it together with the impact and it's fine.