987687

I usually figure it out after my HVAC buttons stop working. ...

Yikes!! That looks bad. If $200 for a belt is too much, just stop driving it. When that breaks it's gonna cost a lot more in valves and gaskets. At this point you'd be better off replacing the belt with a cheap one, and replacing any really bad idlers than letting it be. I probably wouldn't drive an interference engine with a belt that bad across town.

HAH I almost mentioned 14mm for head bolts. I actually had to go out and buy one when I first did head gaskets. If you're taking the block apart you need 12mm 12point sockets too.

You should throw away all 12-point sockets They make more of a mess of nuts. My favourite junk yard tool EVER? BATTERY POWERED SAWZALL!!! zzz If something doesn't want to come apart, cut it out. Then when you have it home on the bench you can extract the part you wanted.

19mm wrench and socket for the bottom two bolts. Probably want a breaker bar and cheater bar to get those loose. They can be tight. I think it's 12mm nuts on the strut top. It's pretty easy, it's just getting the bottom bolts out can suck.

If you find a seat at a yard, carry it over to a car like yours and see how it fits and if you like the way it sits in the car. The seats should all have the same mounting pattern till 08 or so. I personally don't like the 4th gen legacy seats, they're too big and firm without enough support (that's not what she said). My mom has one, it always makes my back hurt on long trips. They're so huge I'm not sure they'd fit very well in a 2nd gen anyway. I have a 98 limited with the leather seats and they're REALLY comfortable. The third gen leather seats are really nice too and should fit very well.

That's really funny

ea82 wheel bearings are really easy and cheap to replace. Go for it.

It's weird my 98 doesn't have the valve, and yours does. huh.

The ring and pinion gears? They start making bad noises, they don't even have to be very worn to make bad noises. Here's a pic I took the other day when I took mine out.

My 98 didn't have that valve, I replaced it with a fuel filler that didn't have a valve. Unless a late model 98 transitioned, 98 doesn't need it. I think they started that in 99.

There are 6 gears and a few bearings in your diff. It's that simple. No levers or magic going on. When my rear diff failed it started out sounding like a wheel bearing, kinda. Then turned into a terrible awful noise. It was an ear retching squealing sound. This happened with about 244,000 miles.

Just pull the supply hose (the one that goes through the fuel filter under the hood) and stick it in a bottle. It should squirt out a little bit of fuel when you put the key in RUN. And it should also run continuously when the engine cranks. Next thing I'd check is if you're getting power at the pump.

I already said that. That's why GD said you probably don't have pressure at the clutch pack.

I just rebuilt the axle with the cup still stuck on the diff. It was a little bit annoying, but whatever. The stub shaft on the outside end is stuck too, so I put it through the hub first, then wrangled it into the inner cup. Not ideal, but it is what it is.

That's how it works. When the car isn't running there's no line pressure to the clutches, therefor the driveshaft will just freewheel. The clutches require pressure to give power to the back wheels. Same goes when the engine is running, it doesn't matter what the duty C is doing, if they aren't getting pressure, no rear wheels. That's why someone suggested you unplug the TCU and try to drive the car. With the TCU unplugged the transmission goes into limp mode. Meaning it can only use 3rd gear and reverse. And no power goes to the duty C, so it should be in full 4wd lockup. You'll know if it is, the binding is pretty severe even on dirt when you turn.

That's not my bench, I sucked those pictures from Numbchux's tutorial because they're exactly what I'm looking at, no reason to take pictures when the exact pictures are already online. Looking at it in the book doesn't make any difference. It has 8 parts. I just want an answer to my question if it's binding up, or if that's how it's supposed to be.

If I stick it in the cup like that, it seems to have full movement and I don't think it's binding when I spin it around... Is this how it's supposed to be and I'm overreacting? The last axle I rebuild was ball bearings the size of the whole DOJ.. It was for a big gigantic power boat. So I guess I'm trying to compare this tiny little thing to that.

So I had the strut out, and some of the suspension bolts taken out. I knelt on the rear hub and popped the big circlip out of the DOJ, the joint fell apart. So I went to put it back together. But I can't make it go back together properly. I didn't take the snapring or inner race off, the cage fell down the axle shaft just like in Numbchux's guide. So I don't think it's possible to be on backwards. The problem I'm having, is once I put all the balls back in, the assembly has no movement at all. I'm not even talking putting it back in the cup yet, just with the cage and balls on the end of the axle. If I try to move it trough it's motions it just pops the balls back out. I have a bit of grease on everything, so it shouldn't be binding because that. When I have all the balls back in it looks exactly like this picture from Numbchux's guide: But it will not do what's depicted in this image, it's just stuck in the one position, trying to do this will pop the balls out.

So yesterday I had my car out in the driveway and I was welding new rear quarter panels in it. My mom walked past and noticed a fire in my trunk (burning paint). She freaked all out THERE'S FIRE IN YOUR CAR OH NOOOOOO!!BLAH BLAH BLAH. And, while still laying a bead down, I said in a calm voice "as long as the fire isn't too close to the banana dooker, it's fine". She was like ummm....ok. and walked away.

Maybe someone put the FWD fuse in, then pulled the light out of the dash? You say you checked the duty C signal, how? If you just measured the voltage, that's not giving you an accurate idea of what's going on. It's a 50hz pulsed signal. So you need to check it with an o-scope or meter that can tell you what the signal is. If the duty C is getting full power, that's fwd.

Yep.

That's pretty nice! I'd love to have one of those. I'd probably ej25 swap it with a 5speed awd transmission. It would be quick and awesome DD.

Ahh, good points. I don't mind having ideas that don't work when there's a good reason, and those are good reasons it would be bad. So would subaru 5x100 rims work? Because the pugs have to be lug centric, the nubs on the hub don't line up with anything inside the wheel.

You shouldn't hurt anything by removing the stubs if you're careful. Diffs on the newer cars essentially have have the stub built into the axle, so whenever you remove an axle it's going through the seal. I haven't had a problem being careful with those. I haven't gotten to mine yet, I've been more worried about getting body work done and painted while the weather is good, I can still work on this if it's a bit rainy. Why do you need to get it out? I'm going to try rebuilding mine with the cup still suck on the diff, I'll let you know how it goes...