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So If I wanted to have my hubs re-done to 5x100... I have a zany idea. I have 14" pugs I use for my winter wheels. So I'd either have to sell those and get new wheels, have the tires changed over, and sell the pugs. PITA. Or... Since the 4x100 holes don't get filled in, they're still there. And a set of 5x100 holes. I can't see why it wouldn't be possible to weld captive nuts on the back of the hub then use wheel bolts like german cars. Besides the fact that they suck to line up, this would mean I could bolt either new suby wheels OR old suby wheels onto my car without having to change all the lug studs around. I'm sure I could make some sort of custom pug nut wheel bolts. Am I wacko, or is that a good idea...

The problem is the mechanic who couldn't care less about you... Don't piss off the person fixing your car. I'd be surprised if the shop would even install customer supplied parts. Say the customer gets crappy parts somewhere. The mechanic installs the part and it fails. Who's fault is it? It's a mess. I guarantee it will piss the mechanic off bringing your own parts.

Before you go and say head gaskets, it could be valve cover gaskets leaking oil down the head. Considering it's a dealer, that's really not a horrible price. I've heard of a lot steeper dealer prices on head gaskets. If it has 150k miles on the original timing belt, CHANGE IT NOW! If it breaks, you bend valves. And it'll be a head gasket job PLUS valve work. It won't be cheap. Don't bring your own parts to any shop and expect them to install them. When I worked at a shop someone did this to me... I told them to go ************ themselves and not come back.

Last year it was -25F here for a week. My 5 year old battery worked just fine every morning...

Don't let this scare you... ea82 engines like to eat timing belts, probably had nothing to do with the cover. Your EJ will be fine, unless, of course, it's due for a belt replacement anyway.

Would you be doing rear disc hubs as well? I'd be interested in that, as I have rear discs. Is there any safety concern with drilling more holes in the hub, though? It wouldn't weaken it too much?

I'd replace the covers eventually. There's a gasket all around the cover, so with a hole it's gonna get full of crap that can't get out. But it's not going to blow up on you overnight. Now that it's summer and the roads aren't ************ty you'll be fine for a while.

Is it making a rubbing sound while it runs? If not, it's fine. The old engine in my car didn't even have timing covers. It died for other reasons, but missing cover wasn't one of them.

I cut lots of rust out of the GL. Tomorrow I'll get some sheet metal and some paint. And start making the holes solid again.

Thanks! It works fine, just wondering what the hell it is! I found it after I almost ground through one of the hard lines. haha.

I don't understand why people get those fancy expensive batteries. what's the point? It starts up and runs, why upgrade your battery?

Evap canister is the black thingy under the hood. They didn't put it back there till 98 Legacy. Unless it has two canisters... It doesn't have any vac lines going to it from up front though.

Acetylene is actually rather expensive in Maine. When I get a set up I'll probably do oxy/propane. It's the same idea as oxy/ace and gets almost as hot. And MUCH cheaper to run because of acetylene prices. Oxygen is pretty cheap, as in propane.

It seems there are a lot of "name that part" threads lately. I thought I knew everything haha. Then today I found a part and I don't know what it is. I figured we could have an ongoing thread for mystery parts as to reduce tons of random ones. Then all the elusive parts can be consolidated in one thread. Anyway, what the heck is this? It's bolted in the pass side rear wheel well of my 89GL sedan, it has three lines that go to the fuel tank. Is it some sort of vent? Will it blow up if I weld next to it? I have it unbolted and swung to the side here.

The problem with a propane torch is that it heats everything up at the same time. oxy/ace heats the bolt up so fast the whole bolt gets red hot, while the nut only heats slowly. It's pretty cool to watch. But that very rapid heating of just the bolt (or nut, depending on what you heat) is what breaks the rust bonds. It's the thing I miss most about working in a shop. I surely don't miss my ********************* boss

Personally, I'd go with the kyb GR2 struts. I've recommended them to a few friends, and installed them. They work quite nicely, maybe a tad stiffer than stock. But they ride very nicely.

When I worked in a garage rusted caliper bracket bolts on subarus were pretty standard practice. It got to the point where I'd heat them red hot before even trying to loosen them. But if I did manage in rounding the head off I'd heat it red hot, pound a socket one size smaller on, the douse it in PB blaster. Then it would come right out, no questions asked. A good hot torch (oxy/ace) is the solution to most stuck fasteners on cars.

My sister needed to get lots of stuff about 100 miles to college. Loaded the car up, strapped furniture to my boat trailer, and off we went. It did OK on the rural roads, but the last 70 miles is highway. I went WOT for about 70 miles and never went over 65mph. Down hill... Little ea81 took it in stride, and only burned about half a tank of gas.

My 89 has that too, and it used to have AC. Always wondered what the fuse by the vac canister was..

It's not in Maine either... they call it "offset backing" to avoid scaring people When I got my CDL they called it parallel parking though. sucks in a truck...

GLs have much better turning radius than does a Legacy. Trying to park that beast pisses me off.

No compression means either valves or ringlands. Really doubt rings are the problem. I'd be highly surprised. Since it's one side that has an issue it's probably someone botched a timing belt job.

The problem is, at least on a 2nd gen sedan, there isn't room to get a socket on the pass side bolt. Barely room on the driver's side.

crank sensor either works or doesn't. Same with ignition module. TPS you can test if it's bad or not, they're expensive. Why blindly replace it? What are you asking here? You have a maf code, it's either the sensor or the wiring. Check the wiring, if it's good replace the sensor.

I don't think it would have mattered if I did that or not. The nuts were so rusted there literally wasn't any hex head on them. I cleaned them up with a wire brush looking for something to get a socket to bite, there simply wasn't anything.