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You could check rock auto and such for flywheel bolts. But you're either going to have to get them from the dealer. Or junkyard. They're re-usable. A used flywheel is fine as long as it's not cracked. Just have it re-surfaced, call your local machine shops for quotes. It's a pretty simple flywheel to have done.

Thanks for all the answers! I'll give them a call on Monday, I'd rather order over the phone than on ebay if I can get the same deal. That's a great tip!

The automatics either had 4.11 or 4.44. Yours is probably the former. So you will have to swap the rear end. Why don't you just get the clutch and pedal setup from the same car you got the transmission out of? You probably will want to replace the clutch and have the flywheel re-surfaced. But you'll have all the parts. Also, make sure you get the transmission crossmember and bolts. If you're going with cable setup, I'd probably buy a new cable from subaru. They're only about $60, and it sucks when they break. My 96 had the cable break with only about 100k. Yes, it was routed correctly. You can make a transmission use either cable or hydraulic setup. When you pull the clutch fork off you can remove the ball it pivots on. There are two different spots you can bolt it in. I believe top one is for hydro, bottom is for cable.

I've searched all over here and nowhere did i find a link to "importexperts" dude on ebay. Searched all over ebay and couldn't find this dude. Has that seller disappeared? Or do I just fail at ebay... Looking for timing belt kit for an ej22. I'm not sure yet what kind of tensioner it has since I haven't picked the engine up yet.

It's gotta be RWD though, just go buy a Nissan. I mean, if you want to spend lots of time and money to make something custom. Go for it, but if you really like that engine for whatever reason, go buy a car that came with it from the factory.

They'll most definitely rub. I have 205/75/14, which is only 1/2" bigger (mathematically, at least). And with a 2" lift I had just minor rubbing issues. Stock height you might be able to go straight as long as you don't hit any bumps...

Ya, it should definitely read 0% on the TPS at idle. Both my old 96 and my now 98 do that. Is the throttle held open at all? If you start the engine with up to about 3% throttle opening it will actually idle down to 700 RPMs, and the TPS on my scan tool will jump down 0%. The computer has some built in calibration for the TPS, the IACV then takes over and makes it idle right. If you start it with 3%, after it idles down let off the gas and it'll stall. But if the throttle is always held a bit open, or messed up, the ECU will probably correct for it, while the TCU might just get pissy about it. My auto tranny will occasionally hunt a little bit, but ONLY when I considerably change throttle input while it's shifting. Usually results in a really hard BANG. Mine has 243k on it, so that's not too surprising...

You could get cloth heated seats. Just go to a junk yard and get a new seat bottom.

I run 205/75/14 on my GL and it was just rubbing a tad at full lock full compression. A bit of love from by BFH mostly fixed it. An inch bigger tire size would probably require more attention to keep from rubbing.

This is how I get them through. This is picture of a rear, but same idea works for the front too.

Definitely replace all the seals, gaskets, water pump and timing belt while it's out. It's a lot easier than doing it in the car. Personally, I'd probably also replace the head gaskets while it's out. Even if they're not leaking. It's not particularly hard, and that'll ensure you don't have a problem with it in the future.

So who's driven their lifted rig the farthest to get there...? I drove mine 1200 miles from Maine. Granted, I was going down for business. But I couldn't pass up a trip to the outer banks.

I'd fix the engine issues before worrying about the transmission. The auto tranny is such a complicated wad of electro-mechanical controller wizardry that a poorly running engine upsets the balance. I was having a stupid misfire issue with mine (caused by a cracked insulator on a plug). But when it was misfiring the transmission wouldn't shift right. I guess the ECU isn't reporting load properly to the TCU, so it gets confused.

Phase2 2.2 heads are single port, 2.5 are dual. That's awesome you posted up all the part numbers and prices on the major ej25d rebuild parts! I've been looking for a while and never found stuff that cheap, or really knew what to buy. It would be interesting to have the single port 2.2 heads and the dual port 2.2 heads flow tested on the bench. I'm not really convinced the dual ports flow better, they go to the same size exhaust pipe anyway. It's a much bigger exhaust port than the dual port ones, it's probably close to the same surface area.

I know a lot of you aren't in Maine, but Evergreen Subaru will fill your container and sell it to you.

When the engine is running check with a meter to see how much (if any) voltage the alternator is putting out. You could have bumped the connector loos, or whatever.

That's really scary! I'm glad the man was alright. You did the right thing there rushing him to the hospital, you probably saved the guy's life! Hopefully your subaru can be fixed with a new fender and some tweaking.

My legacy idles at about 600-650 in gear, according to my scan tool. I'll have to look where it falls on the tach. Mine has the 2.5, so more torque. but the 1.8 should have an appropriately sized torque converter tuned to the engine. So it should work about the same. It's the same transmission.

It's beautiful. I sailed a boat all around the coast where you can't drive in. You can only access by boat, what an amazing summer!!

Being around that line sounds about right. Then it'll be a bit lower stopped in gear.

When I lived in Newfound Land I came to the quick conclusion that CT was pretty much totally incompetent. It always pissed me off whenever I needed something from there.

That is one of the most badass brats ever

500-550 when in neutral or in drive? In drive the RPMs will be slightly lower. Lots of 4cyl automatic cars shake at idle, it isn't really just a subaru thing. But it's speculated on here than vibration at idle can be caused by harmonics being set up by aftermarket axles. I have one in my car, sometimes it vibrates, sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes it worse than others, dunno. I'd start by cleaning up the IACV (idle air control valve). If it gets gummed up the engine won't idle properly. Which can especially cause problems with an automatic. Mine was stalling, or near stalling when I came to a stop. It stopped doing it when I cleaned the IACV. Probably it wasn't reacting fast enough so the idle just dropped out and died before the valve could open up.

Are you asking what the idle should be? Should idle at about 700rpms. The gauge might be reading low, I had a 96 leg that read low. Always thought I had a problem until I threw a scan gauge on it (obd2 on that car), it was right at 700. So if it runs nice and smoothly without shaking, etc. at idle, it's probably fine.

That's not going to fix rod knock. If I'm going to rebuild an engine and make it all nice, I'll do it to an SOHC 2.5. Then make an adapter plate to put a phase1 intake manifold on it.