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Sadly, not. But I don't think they used the 1.59 low range anyway except for the 1.8L models. I dunno if they sold those in Latin America or not.

I thought for motorhomes there's a pump driven off the axle to provide line pressure to the bearings in the transmission. (obviously for autos) For a manual it's splash lubricated, so not an issue.

So this only effects the autos? Or is it a suspension thing as well? My mom has an 08 5speed. It drives pretty well, even in snow. Just don't want to have this happening. I broken rear end stuff on an old legacy that made the rear want to lead the car in snow, it was scary!!

Just deck the heads. It shouldn't cost much more than a resurface.

From what I've read, 1.8 heads on the 2.2 up the compression. Seen it around a few places, not sure if it's reality though.

Looks like an Audi? They just spontaneously combust like that...

I usually deal with the three screws on the top first. Often most of them get drilled out. Then unbolt all the other bolts incase they require drilling or cutting. Once I'm done with powertools, I move on to getting the filler out. That way it's just pull the old one off the hose, drop the new one in.

Trolling all the hicks with truck nutz

So can't you do a fuel injection swap like you can with the ea82?

WHAT?! You don't need a press for front ea wheel bearings. Nor do the bearings cost $70 each. There's a generic bearing you can get, can't remember the number. GD or someone will chime in with what it is. You can use a punch to get the old bearings out, and a PVC adapter to drive the new ones in.

Didn't the later model justys have fuel injection?

It actually will if you try hard enough... some day you'll get a transmission or diff where someone did that. Have fun

I don't know about other states, but in Maine it's sort of like this. You pay excise tax on cars 6 years old or newer. And cars older than that the registration is calculated by the original value of the car. The original value of my 98 is like $25,000 because it's the limited. The original value of my GL is like $10,000 because it's a base model. They don't calculate inflation, so the registration is cheaper. If you have a 1945 lincoln your registration will be $20 or something because the original value of the car was so cheap.

If it's as thin and rusted as mine was, there's nothing to weld to. It was cracked and broken at the mount where it bolts to the car on both sides, it was so thin. I hit the middle of the tube with a welding hammer, and the point went through. It was literally being held together by rust. I'm shocked it didn't catastrophically fail on me.

Mine leaks. I wish I replaced it when the engine was out of the car. You have it all apart now, replace it.

I had a nail in the sidewall of a fairly new tire at one point. That one hurt. I don't know how long the nail was there, but it wasn't leaking. I noticed it one day and was like HOLY *$. So it stayed there for about 2 more weeks until I found a matching tire... I've had flat trailer tires too. Ended up ruining that rim because I was miles from home at about 2am. It was a favour I was doing for someone for free that I got suckered into. It wasn't my trailer so I didn't give a damn I've had a lot of mis-adventures with vehicles.

Not having a flat is lucky. I've had A LOT. And not because bad tires. Because nails and stuff in my tires. The last three flats I've had were on the highway in the dark and rain.

For pictures go to photobucket.com. Make an account there, then you can upload pictures to post on the forums. It's a free service. What part is rusted? The tube like what I posted a picture of?

Oil light doesn't come on when you're just 2qt low. There's no level sensor. The light comes on when there's less than about 4psi of pressure. If you get that low pressure while you're driving the car, it's a death sentence. It's cooked. It shut off on it's own because it overheated and seized. Good thing is engines are cheapish and easy to replace.

^ that one has the steering wheel on the oz side of the car.

I had a wanted ad up for a while, got a few bites. But shipping was gonna be ridiculous Finally went and found a local subaru nut who had one. Gave it to me for $50.

Check the distributor cap. If the seal around the bottom of the cap is bad, it'll let water in. I've also had a cracked cap that upset things when it was damp.

As long as something on the body of the car isn't broken, it's all replaceable. I've had every part of the suspension unbolted from my car at one point or another... Get a pic posted up so we can see what's going on.

^ Nice! That thing will probably last forever. I need to find another good analogue one. I have a super expensive fluke, but there's some things you can't beat an old analogue for. Things like testing a VSS or testing to see if a TPS is functioning right. Same thing with radios. With the analogue meters you can very easily check a rheostat/pot. Such as volume controls or TPS. As you go from closed to open the needle will sweep from one side to the other nice and smooth. If it jumps around in the middle, you need to replace it. But it's hard to do that with a DMM. You can't really see it jump as easily.

The replacement tube I got was from an XT, actually. Although XT trailing arms are different because they have rear sway bar mounts. If you don't care about that, they'll swap over.