vagen

just took possession of the RX 210 miles to get it and 210 miles back. Needless to say I was nervous all the way back. even overloaded this car felt STRONG! and 10psi was right under my right foot no boost controller needed. I need to redo the exhaust and chase a bad ground on the headlights.

I have a radiator in mind for this car, we used it with great success in my brothers 86 hatch rallycar. It's all brass but crossflow and it cools like mad. Chevy S10 v6 this fits the opening and mounts with little modification. I am also adding an RX-7 oil cooler for added protection after all our engines are primarily oil cooled. when rebuild time comes I think I might pull out my Datsun hat and O-ring the block for better HG sealing.

thanks I'll look into that and pick one up if I can find one.

the parts have been ordered. Like I said this will be fully tested before I put it on the car.

I have decided rather than have a bleed valve boost control or a spring valve type I will build a simple electronic valve control. The parts list is short but it will work. parts: Adjustable N/O Hobbs switch 12v solenoid valve with 1/4 npt fittings 1/8 check valve 1/4 npt to 1/8 hose adapters = 3 1/8 tee fitting = 3 1/8 pressure / vacuum line the hobbs switch is the boost sensor at a preset level it closes an electric switch. The switch sends current to the solenoid opening the valve this sends full boost pressure to the wastegate. the check valve is between inlet and outlet of the solenoid valve to let the wastegate close when boost drops. So simple and not that expensive. I will test it before I put it into service but the theory is sound and the parts well proven. This should work.

if you want more power without blowing the engine look at removing restrictions. Add a header, DP, de-restrict the air box, add a recirculator valve and add an intercooler before you think about boost. This is my plan and I'm not looking to have 200hp but perhaps a nice reliable 130hp will do. My engine is a fairly fresh rebuild so it will take a little more abuse than an older one but not much.

me too OH wait its my thread LOL!!! I will start the modifications monday or tuesday and hopefully it will be ready for the state autocross championship on Oct 11.

unless you have just 50hp then its 90% driver and the rest is luck. My last autoX car had just 50hp so this one will be a huge step toward the big leagues.

I am hoping that I can use the ZX-T injectors to add headroom to my engine. I would love to have enough power to beat some of the WRXs I autocross with.

That is actually pretty cool

and an EA82T

Just arrived a nice SVO intercooler WOOHOO!!!

I did some research on factory boost controls and what I found was a bleed system operated by a solenoid valve. I will try this unit and see if it works if it doesn't I'll buy a spring valve type.

that's what confused me so I took out the ball and spring.

the way they had the ball and spring positioned it would have increased boost pressure before it was regulated by the bleed valve. like this turbo {ovvvv} wastegate .............T boost adjustment valve

I have a gauge and I will be watching this like a hawk. I will not add any boost till I have the intercooler installed. The plan is to intercool and then add boost. I am planning to add an egt and a WBO2 to further monitor things.

I plan to use the Tee but not the spring and ball in the tee.

thanks guys I will go with the straight bleed setup and no check valve

this is the unit I bought

this looks like a decent quality piece but having a check ball in the TEE fitting confuses me. I think I'll just remove the check ball and spring and use it like every other bleed type I've looked at today.

I think I have the install down but the t fitting having a check ball confuses me. I guess I had a misplaced idea that this was a spring valve controller instead of a bleed controller. I'm used to seeing the spring valve controllers.

I just received a MBC bought on Ebay and I am a bit confused there is a "T" fitting with a ball and spring in it and an adjustable bleed valve. My question is if this is a bleed off type controller why is there a check valve? I am thinking about removing the check valve and just treat it as a bleed valve.

a google search brings up a beauty pageant that used Subarus as the transportation cars.

mine has a TWE DP and basically a straight 2.5 inch pipe from there back, it does have a glasspack but that doesn't muffle much. perhaps I'll swap the glasspack for a real muffler.

that's why I come to this site. thank you. I'll go with an adjustable then.