vagen

my setup is a lot like turbone's I learned my lesson building turbo datsuns so I knew before anything cool the charge. I'm currently using a $5 Ebay MBC but I have modified it to actually work and I see a steady 9.5 psi. below is a photo of my setup note the BPV (Bypass valve) routes boost pressure back to between the turbo and afm. it opens only when the throttle is closed. this keeps the turbo spinning at speed so when you shift the turbo will reach boost faster. A BOV/BPV will extend the life of your turbo because the turbo doesn't deadhead against a closed throttle. Dead heading will actually stop or even spin a turbo backwards imagine what the bearing is going through when that happens.

I haven't done it yet but I have new race seats coming anyone interested in my old RX seats they are in ok to good condition. fronts only I'm keeping the sliders for now

modified Tokiko iluminas for a miata they are 2" shorter than the stock struts. a miata weighs 21-2300lbs my car is 2500. I hope to bring theweight down a couple hundred by removing the sound deadening. On my last race build the sound deadening accounted for 150lbs.

according to the manual you must rotate 360 here's a link for reference http://offroadingsubarus.com/timingbelt_ea82.html

did you install one belt then rotate the engine 360 and install the other belt? Not doing this is a mistake that is rather common. If you just install them with the cams 180 it won't run. I've made this mistake so I make sure others don't.

well to be honest I'm lazy... I have a bit of rust in my fender lips so rather than weld in new ones I'll be installing flares. I can buy some Wangan style flares fairly cheap (cheaper than new steel). This is also an excuse to get some wide wheels (13x8) made by Diamond Racing. I do autocross this thing so I like having a good excuse to widen the track. I still think the car sits too high. There is still a downward slope to the front control arms. 3 more inches of drop will make them flat (the theoretical drop limit for handling) any lower and I'd be losing camber.

once I get the fender flares it will get body work and paint. Im probably going with white again.

fresh photos of the Suby with the new hatch and the rear body kit removed. not 56k safe

I dunno maybe the gl had a different latch I should probably start getting things together to paint the car so everything matches

yep and there is no height adjustment LOL oh well it's sealed and has ZERO RUST!!! BTW: Anyone want the rear body kit from an RX I'll be removing mine soon it's unneeded weight on a racecar.

I have a spare set of premium alloy wheels in 13x5

picked up a rust free hatch for Casper and installed it. I will paint it when the car gets paint. I may add a stick on lip but there will be no holes drilled in this hatch EVER!!!

it all depends on how I drive. If I'm enjoying the car I can get as low as 10 mpg but if I'm driving careful it soars to 40+mpg. this is in an MPFI turbo Leone

lowering... how low do you want to go? if you just want an inch or two go for the 2wd struts and flipped brackets. if you want to get really low that is a different story. I'm working on dropping my RX another 2-3 inches for a total of 5-6 inches of drop. I'm using modified miata struts in the front and rear with coil over sleeves and eibach coil over springs this is an involved swap that requires some level of mechanical skill. I am building a race car that will only see limited street use so I can afford to have it stiffer than most drivers would like. for reference this is my car with just 3 inches of drop compared with a stock ride height car STOCK and with a 3 inch drop NOTE: stock struts will bottom out over big bumps in the rear at a 3 inch drop.

thanks problem solved a/c core was plugged so I took it out. the rest of the a/c system is already gone so no loss

Sassy Grass Green

I have an 88 RX I am having issues with airflow. here's my problem I turn the heat on and the fan runs heat comes out but very little air. I checked the Vac doors and they all work properly the fan runs at all speed settings. I'm suspecting an obstruction on the duct work. I am at a loss as to how to get to the inlet of the fan or the front of the cores without dismantling the car. any help would be great.

My guess is that sediment from in the engine was deposited in the heater core when the HG blew and now the core is mostly blocked. try a reverse flow flush and you might get your heat back.

If I'm not mistaken the dual carb was on the "sport" model this was a higher RPM engine (7000) so most likely it had bigger ports, larger valves and a hotter camshaft.

I know of three and perhaps a fourth AWD dyno in Charlotte and Concord.

thanks. I changed boost gauges from the VDO that came wiith the car to an autometer (lower limit just 15psi vs 20) and sure enough 13.5psi so I turned it down to just 10 and everything is happy.

my engine management keeps hitting fuel cut. is there something I can do or buy that will keep it pulling even on cooler days? I have had to turn the boost down to 10psi to keep from hitting fuel cut.

true I was planning to have it on rollers Sat but the shop was unexpectedly closed so I took a stab with Dynolicious. I will have a dyno sheet soon I hope.

using a gtec type thing you need the weight. btw wheel hp on mine comes in at a rather pathetic 118 but torque is in the 140s. Not too bad for stock turbo, injectors, intake and headpipe.