vagen

my apologies I was mistaken on the origin if my car. In future I will give credit where it is due.

I think I'm getting closer to the Rally version all I need to do now is build the push bar

If you can't get ahold of Will through nasioc try calling Steven (pleadies) at 42autosports.com. Steven has helped me further develop one of Will's RXs.

That actually works Back when I was a Datsun owner I saw a guy with one of those on his 510 and on the track he was about 10mph faster than me and I had more power.

I have found the CD on a loyale wagon is rather bad ranging from a CD of .30 to .38 or more depending on how big the barn door you strapped to the roof is. My advice remains the same look for things that obviously stick out into the airstream. Roof racks are a big drag producer as are mud flaps. on some cars removing the outside mirrors actually hurts aerodynamics. Your plan for tuft testing is a great idea I would have a friend drive along side and video as you drive that way you can see what the air is doing in areas obscured from the drivers seat

the BPV signal should be connected to the intake manifold so it will see vacuum when you close the throttle. you can tee into the hose to the fuel pressure regulator.

I adjusted some more free play into my dying clutch to try to limp it along for another month.

I could use the taller non-turbo 5th gear my RX feels like 5th is just 4th and a half. I've on more than one occasion thought I was in 3rd and tried for another gear. When I picked up my RX I drove it 210 miles to get home never hitting boost and managed a staggering 42mpg. I later backed that up with a 116 mile MPG rally through the mountains with 37mpg. these can be efficient cars but the RPM needs to be kept low to do that. if you can manage the swap a 3.7 ratio front and rear diff will help a lot.....just don't expect it to have any form of quickness to it. as far as aero mods My advice is look under the nose of the car. draw a straight line parallel to the ground from the nose back. If anything is below that either raise it up or lower the nose (airdam). you can add a bellypan to these cars but TBH the belly is pretty flat as is (just the bits that hang below it are a pain). These cars aren't awful Aero wise but they are a 30 year old design. I too am on ecomodder and Gas-savers as well

a lightened flywheel will not affect the power output of an engine in anyway. It does however affect the power delivery due to some loss being removed. As a result the car will be quicker and that makes it all worth while. My car May or may not have a lightened flywheel the debate rages on that, we'll find out when the new clutch goes in. I've had light flywheels in all my race cars they make up and down shifting much faster and rev matching is almost instantaneous. If you have a flywheel lightened make sure it is rebalanced when they are through.

I have a BPV on my EA82t it's a factory subaru part (legacy turbo not sure of year) plumbed to recirculate boost from just in front of the TB to just in front of the turbo. With my cold air intake and open element air filter it does make a noise but not loud like the boy racer types. The BPV has improved the car a bit since there is no boost fall off after a shift (0-60 is just under 7 sec @11psi) On these cars with an air flow meter (often called a MAF or AFM) you need to recirculate the air back into the intake after the AFM. If you don't when you shift the car will go pig rich every time you shift (because fuel for the air you just dumped has been injected).

didn't have that one yet thanks I checked availability on the ECU and all the other parts.... Subaru USA won't let us order parts not originally imported to the US grrrrrrrrrrrrrr

the link worked for me and wow part numbers and everything.... I wonder if I can still order the sport ECU? What I found interesting is they ran stock engines just port matched they apparently got the power from timing and management 25*initial timing and a special computer that fueled properly for 12 psi.

I blew a T-belt today luckily it was the right hand one and the engine stayed running. Unfortunately it broke 50+ miles from home 900cc in a 2500lb car SUCKS but I made it home and put on my new set of belts. it runs smooth and strong again.

please try to remember:slobber:

I would love to see some documentation on the rally cars it will make building a replica much easier

you mean I can't slap a wagon seat into my RX? I don't have a rear seat or mounts.

the reported power on the rally engines was between 175 and 190hp. No hood scoop means either an air/water intercooler or no intercooler. If they got those numbers without an intercooler I want to know how.

They did run the EA82t but in a highly modified form. I have no idea how they kept them together.

I'll see if I can pull it off at the sandblast rally. I am going to spectate not race so probably not going to happen.

[quote name= Vagen, Car looks good! Now you need to have 12" under the rear diff (Like me) -Tom [/quote] this is my goal

here's a good start

today I put the 4wd suspension back on the RX. GOOD GOD these sit high stock. I got done in the dark but it's tall. thats a good 6-8inches between the airdam and the curb

the person who told me this has broken his fair share of Subaru transmissions he has also built some very powerful Subys and now owns a tuning shop to do this. Pleades helped build my car originally and now has two One Lap victories. I don't take his word lightly.

I would really like photos of the engine bay and interior because everything I've seen there is no roll cage I might just sell my coil over set and go with standard 4wd suspension with a slight re-valve.

OK i'm compiling photos of the factory rally cars of the 80s and I have a few photos of the Kenwood RX I think I'll turn my RX into a replica.