vagen

take a little time to crawl under the back and find out if someone switched the diff if they have then the power loss and vibration you are experiencing is the car trying to tear it's self apart. and if you haven't had the power loss before it may be because you were on a slick enough surface that one pair of wheels could slip. my .02

the search function was no help so I posted.

I would prefer a real LDS instead of a spring loaded chunk of tin stuck in the spider gears.

I've been pondering this for a while... is there an LSD that will fit the RX trans so I can have more traction?

if you don't know the condition of your engine I would drop it closer to stock. My car is hitting 8psi then creeping up to 12 as RPM climbs toward redline. When I had the boost controller it would hi 12psi and stay there. I lost the return port for the boost controller when I built the intake so I removed the controller.

the idle bypass screw was loose I mean really loose. I set the idle to 900 rpm with the engine hot and staked the screw. it should not fall out anymore.

I raised the coil overs to the max so I'll have clearance for snow driving this weekend

due to the head design there is almost no benefit from bigger exhaust. If you must go bigger don't go over 2 inch. Bigger is not better in the case of an N/A EA82

I agree with GD I have an EA82t powered car and I have removed the boost controller. I am intercooled and have both intake and exhaust. my car sees 12 psi with no boost controller. Stock turbo (with a ported wastegate), Ford SVO intercooler (top mount) TWE down pipe and a custom cold air intake. if you make the whole system more efficient you will unleash trapped power an intercooler (water to air would be great for stealth) is the first thing one should do on one of these engines.

I am experiencing a high idle with my turbo engine. When warmed up it rarely idles below 1500 rpm. Will a dirty iac cause this?

welcome to USMB from a fellow NC subie owner

Yes..... coil- over suspension and XT6 sway bars are on, Cold air intake is done. I still need to build the strut bars and the harness bar. this is how it looks currently ..... well the front wheels are different but you get the idea.

I fixed my asthmatic heater. I picked up a blower fan from a 93 loyale and voila more heat than I can stand I also got my winter/non race tires on

the real question is how far are you going to go before realizing that you could have spent less on an ej20 turbo engine swap.

I love my ea82t but I also hate it. Why you ask? because it's a compromise engine. When Subaru needed a new engine they just added cam boxes to the ea81. the 3 port heads are a band aid fix too. they breathe a bit better than the two port but not that much. basically if you compare the power of an ej18 to an ea82t the ej is making the same power with no turbo and more torque. The EJ is a clean sheet of paper engine with no adapters to make it run. this is why I'm not going to dump lots of money into my ej82t to make power I will wait and when it goes (not if) Ill put something other than an ea in its place,

Yesterday I started on the custom intake by replacing the tired and cracked tube between the afm and turbo. At the same time I removed the boost controller. When I took it out for a test drive I was stunned, it hit 12 psi on the stock wastegate and the icing on this cake is it idles better.

my control arms are angled down slightly so I figure I'm ok at this height. Driving impressions without corner weighting the car are very good. it's neutral to the limit then gradual oversteer. I am pleased with how this has worked out. I thought the springs would be too stiff but they are just right. I ended up raising 1.25 inches front and 1 inch rear.

final ride height is set all that is left is the corner weight fine tuning.

all 4 are in and I have the car set to a dream ride height I will be raising the front 1 inch and the rear 3/4 inch I haz camber I probably should have had the same wheels all round but oh well.

does someone have a 4wd strut that they can measure? I need to know for sure what the length of a 4wd strut is. my struts measure 16in roughly (that is the tube length).

I am using the EA82 mounts I had to modify the shaft to have the step far enough down that I could have rubber isolation. I'm not sure how Numbchux did his but I ended up chucking the shaft in the lathe and turning it down an additional 1.5 inches before I could have rubbers and be able to bolt it on. I can tell you its not fun having a whole shock spinning next to your elbow. it rained all day yesterday so the shock is filthy once again but here is a photo of it installed. I think I'll flip the top mounts just to have a little more travel

I don't plan to go any lower than arms flat. I know that beyond that is pointless. I have built many race cars before this so I'm no fool. BTW: a BIG thanks to Grossgary for the swaybars and JWX for the coil over kit. This project is coming alive thanks to the help of members on this forum.

a couple photos to compare ride height BEFORE AFTER the front should end up with a similar drop interestingly it was just 1.5 inches lower than when I got the car.

It appears I have 4wd struts in the front so I think I can probably just pick up a set of 2wd struts an install the coil overs on them.

I have 3 sets of 13 inch wheels all with different race tires on them and all in good condition. this is a big part of why I'm sticking with 4 lug. I am planning to go 5 lug at some point but 15 inch wheels in 5 lug are oddly hard to find in the style and offset I like. I have installed the rear struts and 450 lb/in springs. No more bottoming out on every little bump YAY! I'll take photos this weekend when I start in on the front.