Nug

w3rd

Screw holding rotor?

When parts stores label a pad "OEM Replacement" quality, they tend to be a good compromise between all factors: Cost, wear, stopping ability, noise. I haven't had any luck with the Wearever brand from Advance Auto(especially the Silver). They don't work particularly well, and caused shuddering in my Tacoma("oem replacement"). Rear drum brakes aren't picky. Get the cheap ones. Bendix, Raybestos, even NAPA i feel are good quality. OEM are good quality. I bet OEM's aren't even that expensive.

That's what I'd be doing. Better things to do than swapping trannies that still move cars.

One shift fork is constantly engaging a gear. That's why neutral is acting like a gear. When you do to shift into another gear, you are engaging two gears at once. This is like dividing by zero. You can't do that. Tranny no likey. It effectively locks it up. If it's of the design where the top of the transmission can be unbolted and the shifter and all the shift forks are removed in one go, then you can probably fix it no problem. If it's of the design that just the shifter can be removed and all of the shift rails and forks can only be removed with some major disassembly, then you might be screwed as far as an easy fix is concerned. Essentially, all of the shift forks engage a sliding collar. When the collar slides one way or another, they engage gears. You've got a collar that won't return to its center, its neutral position. This can be because a shift fork is bent, there is wear on the detents of the shifter shafts, or because the end of the shifter (or the ends of the shift shafts themselves) are worn. Pull the shifter out and look in. Are all of the shifter shafts lined up? There should be three of them. Is one out of position? Try to pry it back with a screwdriver. If the shifter shafts are all in line and it still does it, then I'd suspect a bent/broken shift fork or maybe a sheared roll pin between a shift fork and shaft. If the shift shafts are not lined up and you are able to move it back into position, and it works normally, then I would tell your friend to shif the truck slowly in an exaggerated H-pattern. Not moving the shifter in a straight line from second to third, for example. move the shifter up, then right, then up again. This will keep the worn components from accidently engaging things they aren't supposed to. This happened to me on the BABE rally in may. Furiously working the shifer back and forth fixed it (don't do that). The above rambling makes sense. To me, anyway.

Colors are subjective.

Let me expand on that. You can use mine whenever you feel like it. I've got a TIG welder here too, if that better suits your needs.

You can come down here and use mine.

There's an aching in my loins... Time to look for beaters. I talked to a craigslist seller about his '78 Mercury Marquis. Part of me wants to do the rally in huge American boat style. Kind of like Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas. Then he said it got 13mpg on a good day. Let's see...that looks like about $800 worth of gas. Well, I have spent money on dumber stuff than that. Then I found a heinous '78 Triumph Spitfire on craigslist. Sitting for ten years, convertible top rotted clean off, huge rust. That's more like it.

Sounds like ignition to me. Like you need a little more initial advance. How do your plugs look?

Bump http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=19521813&posted=1#post19521813

First of all, this car has something like 11 ground wires. They all need to be there, and be secure. Second, the idle speed needs to be correct. 550-575 rpm. Third, check the TPS voltage. Should be around .50 volt. Check your manual. Fourth, check the base ignition timing. The computer assumes that the timing is at a certain baseline setting. If it is not, it will not run right. Check your manual on how to do this correctly. The above must be correct before you start throwing money and parts at it. Do this stuff first. More tips: A classic goof is mixing the wires for the knock sensor and the coolant temperature/fan switch sending unit on the passenger side. The blue wire goes to the knock sensor, the green to the temp/ fan sensor. Reverse these and you'll get a code 42 and/or 43. Lots of mysterious problems can be traced back to bad batteries, and crappy connections on battery cables. Test the battery, and do voltage drop tests on the cables to see if they are good. If there is corrosion, replace the whole cable instead of cutting the end off and splicing because the corrosion can wick up into the cable. ****All of the preceding information was pulled from a derelict Car Craft magazine sitting on my bathroom floor****

I read the thread title and laughed out loud. Yeah, right.

GCK is the OEM supplier to several manufacturers. I've had no problem with them in other applications (haven't used them in a subaru).

You don't want a junkyard one. You never know. http://www.autozone.com/N,11200809//shopping/partTypeResultSet.htm Call 1-800-428-7726 (the number in the listing above), and PRETEND YOU WORK AT A SHOP. They won't answer your questions if you are just an Autozone customer. Say you are from Tidewater Motors or some other fake name and that there is some confusion about which torque converter is correct. i used one of these in my Dad's sube. It seems to work fine. Took just a couple of days to get there.

*squints at pink letters*

Shenanigans!

The bearings in the LSD will be fine bathed in 80/90. +1 for wheel bearings.

You have nice wood floors. *stalk*

Hello thread. After taking the car on the BABE Rally, I sold it for $250. To my uncle. I pass him every morning and we wave.

This smells a little bit like an oil thread. *pitchfork*

*poke*

You can run ATF in your Chevy's power steering too.