Fuzpile

Something else which occurrs is the evaporative canister or the jiz near filler and tank. The Sube is particular about the level of gas and in the owner's manual, Cautions you to not overfill. I overfilled beyond a few clicks (because I needed to siphon a few pints). It's miserable trying to siphon from a Subaru. Anyway at full point I ascended a steep drive replete with bumps. The next drive encountered terrible running and CEL and this was removed by detaching the battery for a short time. A good warm up period may make this okay but it is like being nonattended. Once saturatrated I would need look at this system more closely.

Mattdni. What they are saying is that the correct "nut" is not a nut. It is a Threaded sleeve type of nut. Its shank passes thru the wheel and aligns by its outer shank And grips threads below the wheel surface.Then there is a taper near the cap for final alignment.

People around here Know a lot more than me of Subies. Your trans is pr1obably a 4EAT and thare are many that will fit. Your tires have to be within 1 /4" or less rolling diameter F-B (1/16" really). For outside that wears the duty "C" and then ..I'll shutup

Yeh plate light. I remember taking all that stuff apart because it needed cleaning anyway but was avenue to that handle plate. It required getting access inside the lid to remove it. It's all 8mm or 10 and smaller hands prevail at some areas. What was interesting is that I had already procured a piece of coil spring from my stock and was going to replace it but it worked.

One of the earlier things I repaired on my '97 was this handle. I was so rusted up for so long it didn't even latch. In retrospect it was because the car was remote entry so long stuff just seizes up. Then the remote went bad. Well the remote went good after i had it awhile. The latch plate i tried to get out from the wrong way for awhile. The lift gate panel is easy to remove yet there may a visegrip to the exterior bolts. That isn't the point. I expected this rusty plate and spring would fall apart. It didn't. I PB Blasted it and wire brushed it and it worked fine.

This is good stuff. Unfortunately for me my ancient laptops are too far behind. I do think though some interface would allow them to capture this sort of basic information. Those with a netbook or even them dagnabbed fancy phones may want to look at this.

Gracias again sir. and I'll save those links. I really like this car a lot. They are so safe and agile. i notice them all over the place now. Some are beat to hell and look like nobody knows where the hood latch is. Then there are the newer ones which are cool. For every one problem mentioned here there are probably hundred if not thousands running around with no concerns to the drivers. Those of us -WHO LIVE WITHIN OUR MEANS- eventually get these gems after they've been a little screwed up. But with You and others here we have a resource that the PO's never knew. pretty neat:)

I'm inclined to stay out of this except the rings would influence that "oil film" you mentioned. The Haynes is good about this area for it shows two particular things. The 2nd ring is tapered and if installed upside down can cause this. Also the oil ring has a certain way. Page 2B-21

Thanks folks. It was kind to retreive that earlier thread for me too. Mine is unlike our other friend's problem. It doesn't drain the battery. That link may be of use to him . Noise went away for awhile and came back recently. Never an ABS light except on startup for a few secs. Thanks again for the help. I won't post again except to report the solution.

Well BG I thought my previous response went through. It didn't obviously. I should PM you because we can crack this nut.

1997 Legacy the unit is humming all the time like a motor running. It's humming at idle which I guess means all the solendoids are running like crazy looking for something. This can't be right. I had an earlier post and searched-can't find that. Real time info appreciated. Thx.

The clue about the heater blowing cold indicates a piece of gasket has lodged in that loop or as gary explained a severe air bubble in the system. As a backdrop when I got my Legacy it was leaking from the waterpump bigtime and I didn't know it, buying in the drizzle. Only one of the two fans were working then and kept the engine from frying.All is corrected now but at point of overheat i coulda run the heater to decrease the engine temp. Some vehicles have the heater lines as part of the system. That's another matter. The core needs opened up by control and system bled of air again. I Know you didn't position the thermostat wrong. Giz twd engine, right:)

I have to admit I'm cheap and somewhat lazy but with examples of a locked front wheel which just LOCKED at a busy intersection....and have to burn my clutch to get the truck to Move, just move with the tire clawing against the pavement, locked... should have been enough. Of course not so it happened again closer to home where I did the other one. Then the same thing happened again ; it's like a clue. Ther were others. Subaru probably has some other way which -ABS- may hammer them to where my reflections don't apply. However it would be good to find the mate to that caliper, same brand etc and maybe on sale. Then keep it close.

Not to be redundant and only to answer Olivia123's question. I generaly find it is only a matter of time before the other caliper will go. It is always the left front first because that is where the master cyl and resevoir is. I've replaced them always one at time in Dodge 1/2 van, Chevy 1 ton truck and always the other seizes up later. With a Toyota truck that had sat a long time, i replaced both including both rear cylinders. Good to go around town then the first time on the interstate the master cyl locked up. It's the proximity of the stuff and if all junk fluid is sucked out thru the line to the unit you replace, then it buys you time. Otherwise the "blood "sets in motion the same corrosion the first one exhibited.

Thanks for the tip about this. If I had checked earlier I would've freaked out. Just a note, Nippon steel isn't the same as we would expect on some vehicles. I had a 5 ton NPR type Isuzu truck once. The thing was great mechanically but the Frame was absolutely distinigrating. Origional 3/8 thick frame sections would laminate, separate into layers. I went over that thing with chisels and needle scalers.... I would end up with only 1/8" of solid metal in places. I had to sell it cheap after replacing all the rusty brake lines and much other work like all the battery box and other brackets.

Sure. Sorry, i thought i read an invitation. Something else which may puzzle a new owner is the dipstick notch. When the oil is dark it is easy to think the notch is the full line which is actually 1/ 2qt below, with a "dot". The owner's manual says the "dot" is the fullpoint. Yet, I like others ran around at "notch" point with no problems. Now that i think about it it's pretty cool. The notch is where you fill it to at an oil change. Then you maintain it at the dot because the filter is no longer empty.

The earlier response about the radio has a lot more possibilities. Sometimes it seems instead of just a small tie to the origional connector, somebody decides to go all the way back to the f box and get one end of a relay or fuse. Maybe the wire bridged across another point.

Valvoline Maxlife went to a synth blend. I tried it in recent oilchange and it seemed to free up a sticky lifter. Also I used a PureOne filter and after aprox 5-600 mi the oil is still clear where it's hard to see it on the stick. Speaking of dipsticks or politics; When was the last time you saw 69 weasels lofted up by the tail and waxed with red paint?

There is sticky valve and checking secondary voltage on a scope type analyzer to actually See how one spark relates to the others. There is of course the hydraulic lifters and a reason they went away from them. Some tech more "in tune " to this may help you soon.

Minor update. While looking at it my trans pan was sealed with the same orangeish stuff and doesn't leak. I don't know where excactly the tube went to draw the worst fluid out. The 2nd try didn't find it that dirty nor did draining out the remaining gallon. The drain bolt was a problem. I was the last one to remove it and it wasn't so bad then. I had to use an electric impact because i could fit under there well. Looking at the washer of the plug I see it was like a sparkplug type which collapses and I had reused it. i think that get's us in trouble.

J .. it's not recently purchased and while I've had the filter out,replaced or anything touching, it has been checked again recently. Stuff all where it should be according to manual pics. If you are going where I think, then there is that nose hangout which i suppose is a harmonic dampener. It should all be good but you know more than i do. it's not touching anything.

Something which can be forgotten is that the valve is supposed to rotate slightly. This is necessary for all the reasons which flash in everyones head:grin: Offsets were supposed to occur to induce the rotation with rocker arms and that. Otherwise there is trouble in lube which becomes heat and stick and burn. So then something is to induce the rotation. The actions of springs when they release contribute to that unless there is something different from the others.

Welcome to the group. Neat autos. These are fairly smooth so critters don't freak out, much. thinking dog haulers, well I have two old cats who are going on a little 100 mi journet again. All the usual things apply before departure, no huge meals. There is a box but they hold it. Water can be in the form of a very damp T-shirt. tarp is laid out in the wagon just incase. Was fortunate to have some enclosure wire screen stuff. This is more like what would be around an outside condensor or something. Enameled or it's otherwise painted and about 3" x1" and can be formed and edged to keep the critter in the the back.

I could barely get out of there as it was. was supposed to take a minute. Anyway, the folks here aways say to drain, run and drain again for a reason. There is a lot of junk IN the TC -they said it and the area beneath it which doesn't drain out.

Between my jack, my belly and the tight plug, I didn't want to look like someone stepped on a burrito- when they found me. So I drew fluid out the dipstick hole. Serious Not Good ! The thin hose only went about 5" below the dip range but must've got into torque conv sump or something. Very Brown. This will be sucked out first and more than 6 quarts will go in before it right for additive.