Fuzpile

Man the last thing..(is to agrue wu) anyway I just think it's wrong. Backflow valve whatever, once its unscrewed the seal is broken. But hey, you're right it's not my momma's filter either. Some special type and it probably isn't supposed to get dirty or replace by another that "fits" btw I'm from Dixieland also and enjoy your posts and information:)

I guess not. These folks know. The different are apparently made to interact well enough to Exceed any one worn-out one. Inherently, i would prefer 2 of the same type unless there is clear knowlege that one is superior. The tri-ball is a somewhat older design used extensively in Europe. Interestingly they would use double-cardans for higher hp vehicles. That is a double-U joint and then again coupled to another u-joint at the transaxle. The sequence of the inividual workings of a 4 point yoke could cause serious trouble if not cancelled out properly. These are still the basis of serious $X$ 4X4 axles last I looked yet are not as driver friendly for regular folks. Enter the CV multiballed type. Both the tri-ball and multi are properly referred to as Constant Velocity for they don't exhibit the rotational variance of basic u-joint at an an angle. That is why so much attention is paid to driveline alignment in raised vehicles. There is a Reason why typical u-joint is used there which goes back. Are we done yet:horse: sorry folks . So the tri-ball is sorta a blend of the two as is the other and you can rebuild a tri ball or our other but not the case it rides in. U-joints can be rebuilt all the time but rely on sliding splines for reach. Then the splines wear. So we got it pretty good

I'm curious if after milling, you used a thicker gasket or even if they are available. The reason is that they are somewhat popular for other long-lived engines such as the Toyota R22. As you know that engine has an iron block but alum/alloy head like the Subaru. The situation is, after machining per the corrosion the compression goes way up. The aftermarket Chinese heads are already (well the one I got) milled to where they need a thicker gasket. ( I was the guy in an old Toyo which sounded like a deisel but wasn't, It only had like 70 lbs more compression than it should) So it can't excactly be run right on 87 octane.

987687 SUPER COOL! It all ties together as the coolant becomes more acidic.

Dang! the freakin dyno/rollers would probably put off more emissions than that, if truth be known. One way or t'other.

I actually have problems. I suppose it's just me as I respect the opinions of others I respect. There is something about that one belt going thru all those contortions. tha's one Mean belt. It doesn't even have 1/2 contact with the alternator yet practically wrapped around the tensioner-for good reason, i suspect. i mean heck, whatever, I guess it works and if any one component fails then everything goes at once. But I'm no "engineer". just blathering The other thing is about filters. You've noticed the noxious junk which comes out of filter which has been suspended opposite this one. That's because the crude and suspended crud is on one side of the seal, the seal between center threaded input. Now when this one is removed, upside down like this, doesn't it all sorta,maybe,fall/drip back into the engine?

I'm too embarassed to talk about it much. I made a blanket statement recently about a certain type of joint being used. I was wrong; it was "some " use them and others don't 1994-98. i'm gonna shutup. They LOOKED like that type from the outside. I would normally think that the two would be the same for any vehicle.

R @R&L . The two fans are interactive by the sensors and relays. My Leg had a bad wp seal and the only fan which kept it alive was the a/c fan. The reg cooling fan had a bad socket conn. It was coolish and to my knowledge wasn't calling for defrost yet that fan had defaulted. Once the conn was repaired only the reg comes on unless it's summer, a/c,etc

I hope you take the previous information. I can only add to what they said. I was in the curious situation of buying my '97 Legacy right after a windshield was replaced. The people that do this professionally have it down to an art. There were small issues with the inside and outside trim. These led me to discoveries outside this subject yet it must be noted the adhesive is some serious stuff:eek:It's some cured rubber, tough as nails stuff. I had difficulty cutting away excess to get an outer trim edge to seat right. A major improvement in a vehicle is visability and the Subaru has a radically sloped windshield. All the highway grit etc does eventually effect this broad surface and we see thu this angle straight .Anyway, A clear windshield is a joy.

btw After submitting, if the screen says POSTED under your msg then it already is. If instead of going back, you jump into the same ..Legacy.. section your browser may or may not tell you that you are (re)submitting that same msg whn you jump there. :-\ confusing help as usual

Narrowpath, Welcome to Ultimate board! Even tho you shoulda posted this as a separate item, as the thread wandered off< I believe you will be getting an education about the "duty C" solenoid and related checks. Since U'r a trooper have have already lifted it to check, U may want to check the operation of your differential. Is a great time to have it in neutral or whatever and try that the one wheel turns freely/smooth and the other goes opposite without huge play, clunks or grinding feel. Also a good time to check differential fluid for presense, Smell it for stank and change it perhaps. With all normal there it's sorta back to that solenoid and assoc plates and stuff that others here know a ton about.

I am so glad you survived. Wicked thing out of the blue. For whatever reason you picked a vehicle that ultimately sacrificed itself to save you from extreme personal injury. This is too intense right now. Onliest thing is ankle swelling. I know that it may recede and then your foot swells. You need X rays of both soon so one can be set.

I certainly appreciate your dynamics. I haven't been there for awhile. I used to get beat-up by one little ridge or line which was a crack. One becomes very anal at a point which isn't excactly what it means initially. There becomes a loss of faith, for everything must be done perfect. Your ability courses across this attitude to where it should be in order to get things done. The opposite is always waiting for the perfect head for too long. About the pressure; what is the oil pressure gage or another saying about this? In the description of warming it may tie into the lack of oil passing thru the oil passage in the head thru and out to where there is a pressure buildup.

Lot's of good info. Thx. Speakin of mounting, that's where i gotta blow about something. One of the chain stores installed 2 new tires I bought from them. I go to pick it up and even before getting out of the lot, I just had to look- I had TOLD them they were Unilug and (yeh yadda yadda). They had RUN those elipse nut locators in any which way. I had to pound on the desk and PO them before any offere of repairing the bent lugs. I had to replace two more after getting home and inspecting the damage.

You're twitchin me:lol: Manual steering. Those freakin pumps put out a lot of power even.. i just think it was his jacked rack.

I followed about interactions and even though there is no Dextron ecu I thought u were given consideration. I deflect from your reasoning when you imply that u are mr engineer and a mentor here is mr mechanic. Mechanics are excactly your problem. Mr humble contributor who has Saved many thousand $s is both. Your rack was wacked and before you fluched it, it was giving you power pulses and binding. These cars use a type of CV joint which I think was Rzeppa (you can check). extremely long throw yet sensitive to power pulses-

Fairtax. Don't think for a second i want this to fail. I hope it works so well you never have to touch it much. I will recede into the background. Salutes!!!

Unless someone here knows excactly how this would work, I wouldn't go there. Consider an extra flying leg for feedback sense to the alternator which didn't exist in 1995. Where is that going? I would think you are going back to normality and peace with this instead of dropping an unknown puzzle into it. Sorry, I did that too often..

man!

You can keep it of course and try to rebuild it at your leizure. Probably new seats, guides.. B4 that, cleaning,gentle draw fileing of the surface. To See how freakin warped it... That is you can go all thru that stuff and somewhere before that, during scraping and cleaning, there is a line. A ridge. Except it isn't a ridge it is a crack. Then it was all a waste. The head is done. A used one that Can be cleaned and valve Can be lapped is a given. The alert is the real possiblity that piston comes out and rings replaced.

Your pics came thru with remarkable clarity. That's a very fine Legacy with many(or all) the options. Those dents will pop out mostly. In a way I have good news about that head for it will be MUCH less work- It is screwed:( The coolant has blasted your seats, the guides. I mean if you were on an island somewhere, you could definitely get it working for awhile But the car doesn't deserve that going back into it. Another head would be cheaper and more dependable.

I reread this thread to find grossgary quoted when he had already editted a response. Don't take this lightly as i among many here have never contributed a comparative fraction. What I'm thinking is that the year is also around when the 2.5 went back to single cams and the engines look similar from the front. When folks don't include the first few #s of a VIN it would make it more open to interpretation.

My reason for getting into it was that the waterpump was leaking. I just thought open it at TDC and everything would be normal. Well i didn't know crap and it took a lot of pics even aftere repairing the crank sprocket that the setup alignment is OFF and the little Vee cuts (which may be highlited w/paint) were The marks. What you will need to find is the engine manuf date. '97-99 means your eng may be of '99 or mine of '96. This changes the ID of the idlers or what type they fit.

From your pics and my experience with EJ22 I would say you dodged the bullet. fortunately it ran so poor at that point at low rpm that you were able to get into it before damage. You've noted (plugs out etc) that there is only about 1/4 turn off the crank (my sprocket was gored out another 1/4 so added more confusion) with all the timing marks, there are only one set which allows a smooth revolution of the engine. It doesn't seem to repeat without many turns but this is where the info for setting is.

Extreme pleasure in a way as i've been a 'ginia boy since 1967. Both of you have been a treasure by way of advise. Enough KU. Broken spring. my little pos .002 help. Funny woosh, valve held open. Super deal either way.