Fuzpile

Many comparisons yet one to gross U. When teeth go bad and are but a Nub and need removal there are different ways. In adult years there was some preparation. That is there were gentle platforms built across other teeth and a clamping sensation. the actual extraction was painless because of numbing and also the extraction was a concentrated exercise between finite points. The dentist didn't actually show me the tool yet i know it was a a puller like a a small bearing puller deal. Went straight and sweet. The alternative was another which again by knumbnense, Worked yet I saw his pliers later/ they were same as some whatevers I had sitting around. The deal is to concentrate with opposing forks of finite reach and just enough force to break the bond.

It seems they break at the neck. (Like clockwork every 15 yrs;)Then before all the snow and salt U don't want to take stuff apart yet leave this open. Junk baby! Tophat plastic bushings. It actually does work. The inside one should be fair rigid. A flare > 1" . The ID is about 5/8" Saw the bush/isolator and wind it into the bellows. Drawn back into spot another with the ID of the 1st's OD is slid over it. All at that point on the rod and screwclamped. Worked fine for 1 1/2 yrs with extremes.

na/different engine

The correct timing marks.

I need to clear something up which may come up as a previous thread re ABS "noise" at idle. Many more knowledgeble than myself came to another's aid and . What it is what they said the esteemed long-throw inside CV joints develop inside wear which is noticable in drive, at stop. That is, they may rattle a bit at stop because that is where the area in straight drive wears.

Welcome V'bean. .

Sitting or driven infrequently over the last many years, .. Then driven for awhile uncovers the damage of coolant which has turned corrosive to the aluminum. One area between two coolant passages short-circuit the cooling or most likely between combustion and one. What I mean is the casting of heads often is that the coolant passages taper wider toward the inside. The gasket must fail when this happens.

In engines, rapid heating of another core involves a shunt, a bypass Now if we consider You've done "everything" and need to find these hoses .. it may be possible the shunt exists yet the port/valve to expelling the heat to the heater core is blocked. i cannot be more specific to Subies yet had experience in other vehicles where this had occurred. i just want others to understand where U were going.

-the reason for the intermittant posts is I always get cut off- These are somewhat a puzzle at this age. Things had been done to it the previous owner had no knowledge of. The waterpump had been leaking and no doubt it hadn't helped this engine yet it still had good compression. It's almost like unraveling an onion to the layer which is still good. With new wp, timing belt (old one was still good) main idler etc this engine will go a very long time. There are things which U can't know like the level of the rear diff, until you own it and correct it. The weird thing is I didn't replace the serpentine belt and now it's showing age. So if something happens to me before replacement, it's the same situation.:-\ U get a good one or a bad one for there are so many parts to it. Good luck.

I was working my way twds likeing or dismissing this car before I had ever even driven a Subaru or a Legacy. The car aready had a Carfax which was good then the owner went to lenghs to refill with lukewarm water before we set out on test drive. The drive was very impressive. Lasted about 40 min. The machine responded and worked so well I did buy it. Turns out it DID have a continuous coolant leak which I fixed. The dual fans apparently serve for each other as one wasn't even working yet the engine didn't go over 1/2 on the gage. Turns out a very nice machine.

Twas a cold and rainy day when I bought my '97. I did the usual things. Made sure all the tires were same tize and wear. Pressed my foot against the top of tire to check some some noise or looseness while pressing it. (Only did this after the normal introduction etc.) Smelt the fluids of the various level sticks and inpected their levels and cleanity. Inspected the idle etc and found the coolant level was low(before it warmed up).

Twere a fine bore. AI 'twere a fine engine once. "nother to the shop then.. bleedin yanks running brake fluid....

You painted a picture ripe for interpretation. if it doesn't "sound" right you may be on to something. Parts of the exhaust can break off internally on any vehicle. Some pos baffle can act as a valve and shut off the flow. An engine may idle perfectly then is strangled at higher rpm when the pos increasingly restricts its exhaust. Often you should take a Known substance= rubber hammer instead of knuckles. Rap various parts and note which sound like sand and which has like a loose plate.

Nobody's laughing friend. I can picture your frozen toes to fingers and why it was plopped in there. The previous is good info. You've yet to see info from one who has actually done that. I'm thinking the alternator took a major hit. While it was heating and breaking down a fuzelink popped as was mentioned.This may have saved your ecm.

Yes, actually I have. I prefer this crush to the wrapped around a phone pole type. Did that,not recommended. Freakin RWD pigs that dig their own ruts and bury themselves. That's over. Bone-rump roast stock subie plows thru stuff when the high riders spin their wide tires. I'm talking a good % of them aren't even 4WD and or unable to use it. Serious nice machine, turns on a dime. I don't think there was a modern auto of this length and capacity with AWD that has as tight turning circle. That goes into the type CV joints they used.

That baby looks so straight and true! Sits right up there too. Congrats:)

I was blind for years what a machine this is. Personality, AwD. There is always something new which is old yet works just fine . It's all new to me and I really like it. 2.2 wagon .

naru, normally not. However a bad or frozen valve coupled with a leaky m/cyl. other side of the bladder.

Within what seems minutes assistance:clap: My earlier notion of the vacuum assist was incorrect on a few points. First off. it is difficult to type diaphraghm when bladder is easy. 2nd if it is ruptured there could be evidence in the hose which should be dry.

Well I certainly didn't help you. I only stand aside, am glad it worked so well. Your kids will remember this 4 longer than we. Fine work. Insofar the propellant leak, I will remain mum as there are those who know excactly where this would occur. When I was doing mine, just before finding this board, I was told to just cut the lines. I didn't either. Largely because reading here.

I would suppose a leak at either of two areas may be a possibility. Place some cardboard under the area below the m/cyl and under that area behind rear seat. There is the possible freezing of the vacuum assist diaphagm wher it cracked and sucked by eng vac. I'm short for someone else who knows these better may have the answer. I just was trying because it's too freakin cold.

Coincidently the strobeing across input of any site is similar to the inputs of the ecm/ecu of those days. Too many throws a code and there are certain triggers which are priority. A leaky injector isn't good and wears away a cylinder.

I have experienced a bucking and cel then no cel when it is brief. The exhaust is rich at those times.

There are two things in addition. The temperature extremes causing an arc track by humididty defeating spark to one cyl. I was going to say injector but that , I'll leave open and be flooded with info or not .

Once that has been established then the subset of redundant fan cooling network can be investigated further. or just forget it like i did.