Fuzpile

Dang, I just have to say something. John touched it and it's a raw nerve about pounding what becomes copper into the spaces>Spaces between. This is important to consider especially when dealing with taps, not-so easy outs and stuff. that is if the driver actually Deforms the plug and expands it while removing.... then we have a different situation. again jC made a good point in that the torque must be contained to the issue.

freakin mice. Sorry folks.This ain't Bambi. Guys with tractors and stuff just trying to continue. Start it up and all types of problems. Sucking some rat nest thru the engine. Total wrong and without lubrication purpose.

Mice being the ratty vermin they are play havoc with engines. That is why you are going tornado. They don't make sense what they do in an engine bay. Anyway they may have peed upside down under the conns of the main fusebox. Some other ratty stuff which occurs is their piss foments corrosion of any contact. This means you need search for good grounds and clean at least one of them to engine.

If i follow you correctly, there is the long tensioning bolt and related. Before adjustment there are locking bolts which must must be untighted to certain point. They may adhere over time.

It's a known fact that there was an adaptor involved. Didn't seem worth mentioning. It was a Thorsen and I fully expected it would shear but it didn't.

I merely add that I was unfamiliar with these cars yet determined to replace all fluids. From every effort there was improvement. The rear fill plug was particularly difficult. Tellin you that electric impact didn't move it and 1/2" pneumatic wouldn't either. These are facts. I finally had my 3/4" with about 100 psi working thru 2 or 3 extensions. And it still wouldn'e come loose. The extension absorbed the impact so I had to get under there and directly apply this 3/4" to the plug, then it released. The 1997 oil or what was left of it was replaced:)

Compelled to make clear that "fileing" filing" is not what I come out and advocate unless propelled by visual examples of how Not to do it. Life is too short and even chamfers where they shouldn't be increases the compression point at a certain area. Whatever works is ....not what is proposed at either way.Seeing where huge damage is evident by abrasive is different than one applying the straightness of glass and very thin sheet of 3M paper. There is the attention to linearity and that is what is required. At least last i looked. When glass was mentioned as the substrate..the foundation for the media to effect the surface then it's accepted that glass is always flat and straight. but it's not always for you know it's a fluid of a different time than ours and pools over time. Who's to say glass has to be perfect now when it like everything is made somewhere else maybe. Where I'm going with this is a "surface plate" which weren't too expensive once. Yet that goes too, another area where we ain't seen nuttin yet.

Well the deal of having a problem already then doing a whole buch of work to another area and then it won't start or run right. tsk tsk excepT EVERYBODY that works on their cars has done that:eek: And I've made that mistake over and over and there are reasons. What i've found is that now there are two problems (they may be joined) but now they are at opposite ends. Your confidence in your work is true. First you have to think again how ..ah crap U already did that So. Split between the ends of the two problems and go towards the one of least confidence then split that. That goes to the sputter and whether that was a fuel filter full of accumulated water, any electrical problems. stuff.

Once it's clean enough to check you can see certain things with a dead accurate straight edge. One can use Dykem or spotting dye and find high spots and where to concentrate. You have to look at how it's mounted and where it Would bend/warp naturally under certain condition. Don't need bore you except to say I'm not even talking about scraping now. A good mill file is a precision instrument. Filing this way isn't filing thru bars or mishandling the tool on backstroke. There is a way to use the precision flatness of the angled ground teeth to present to the work(head) something which will seriously change the surface without the surface knowing what hit it. That's because it's drawn across it at the proper angle.

I come outta nowhere and find this interesting. You can clean your heads all kinds of ways except the mating surface.Or not. the idea of using an abrasive pad or belt sander and stuff is foreign to me. It's not about polishing surfaces, it's about Flatness and squareness from one end to the other. Removing traces of old gasket is accomplised more precisely by proper razor blade and holder with the appropriate solvent(traces of which are removed later)

I expect it isn't quite buckled up yet. So buy a new belt.:-\ I've got one here from my '97 2.2 and it is in good shape. Somebody replaced it. then I didn't know jack about these cars and replaced it again. Pm me, I'll send it. We're getting towards this and there are some real minds here who know these cars to help with this. Some already want you to check this or that. They're thinkin. There are reasons to think that alternator is messed up. Sorry. Look, I'm just trying and not from complete ignorance as you aren't. I have less to juggle than you right now. Believe me You have friends here. this is a learning experience for us all and if we can nail it down to a damn diode then good.

Welcome:banana: not that it's a dance moment, well maybe for you've done some homework . I'm no official greeter or anything. I really didn't know or care too much about Subarus until it worked into perfect sense I get one. then I find I like it more every day. Very intriguing vehicle and it's 14yr old:) I can't say what the very newer ones are like. They are attractive, have different engines. Totally different world for me. There are some cautions. I will leave that to those who know. Welcome and certainly the outback will pull a utility trailer just fine.

GenC. Been a rough day but anyway your statement of 8v on fuze 16 with ignition OFF doesn't sound right/look right according to the basic schemos in Haynes. There is a large conn between the igniter and coil. 16 conns on one and 3 to coil. For there to sit 8v (to ground, I'm presuming)at fuze 16 something is backfeeding and diminishes your ignition voltage.So I went to anything which may apply. The charging system shows that there are two ways voltage could be on #16. It's going thru the charge indicator (which is your bulb and a diode From the alternator or directly coming out of your alternator on the yellow wire. This yellow is to be for 1990-94 which a 95 could be. It's not supposed to sitting there. i cannot totally say it shouldn't be there in microamps or knowing your meter. There is a lot of info about checking the alternator diodes which can fail open or Short. The other thing is that yellow wire( i can't do this often) it shows that between the alternator and the coil and fuse 16 there is a diode branching off it. That may go to ground and that may be hosed.

Very interesting post. While not Subaru specific, it makes one think in depth and also to recall that early steam engines' designers grapelled with similar issues. The post was written so well I could actually see it. This is something to watch and if dear Japan wasn't in such turmoil now..-well even if they are , their engineers are looking at this. I don't need tell anyone here that brilliant designs of before relied upon mechanical feedback. The advent of electronics to govern IC engines of remarkable design.. What I'm saying is truly brilliant engineers existed long before this time and had designs over designs but worked up to a Wall of sorts. They knew metallurgy and coefficients and everything which we still deal with. We now have the electronic brains which was the missing link.

belts

twitcher. Impact Is your friend. Problem is it's already going thru various bends. If you have a Large pipe wrench and get a good bite on the bolt's, socket, good. Now what you need is a small comealong or Large twist ..Heck even a piece of chain. The idea is to wind it until there is tremendous tension between the two wrenches Then whack that breaker bar. You might want to put some cardboard over stuff.

That makes perfect sense. I love this (well like it a lot) site. You especially with the pics (1k words etc) . Stuff going on AT&T buying Tmobile yeh after the gov't and every freaking law group gets their hand in it. Over and over. You guys are the ones I trust. oh that 's sorta why I'm not advanced yet. PC in your pocket thing was ....then there is *8 mp camera included on 4G network. Stop the music. I need to rack out a circuit board.

Goodnite I forgot it was '93. All kinds of different pulley/sprockets on the cam. The print earlier provided by our friend match up to my '97 well. It's a different pulley with marks all over it. I believe that the piston location arrow, which appears to be around 1:30 o'clock in Your pic means your mark is about right. In my case it was a notch at the rear of the pulley(probably why I took it off to check{because nothing was lining up}) anyway good pics. I coulda used them as mine is interferable,big time.

There's fuze #16 in direct line to power the whole mess. If there is no 12v at one end of the fuse conn, there is what is probably a meltable area of wire, a fuseable link, before the ignition sw. This one is identified as SBF-4. I have a Haynes and will look that up if needed. that means Slo-blo fuse and folks here probably know excactly where that is. I haven't had these type problems yet. One thing I need mention is recalling my similar work, I needed to remove the driver side cam sprocket and the cam angle sensor. I don't remember excactly why. Maybe to access the wp better or there was Some reason. Anyway since that sensor is tied into the whole deal with the ECM, it has to be right.

Since you're on here curtis..I rambled about a fix that has worken a year with the left steering boot. Mine had separated at its neck. The bellows itself was fine. Middle of winter all that. so since an amature machining type I located a flanged plastic bushing around that ID as the tie rod OD. Flanged about 1/4", it was cut in half and each halve flange side wormed into the boot. Another similar was applied over the part/s extending. One screw clamp and it holds just fine.

Hey GenC. Good luck man. Turn it some cycles by hand and check for interference. Sorry you didn't have a new belt. There's one bolt of the waterpump which gets overlooked. Don't overlook it.

Good info as always Shawn. I just must be interested in that kit for future reference. I woulda always said new Subaru key and weld up the damage to the hub etc. It is surprising the key only extends 3/16-1/4" into the pully hub. Then again its been mentioned often thats mostly location and good compression against flat surfaces (with a lockant,at times) is the way. I was wondering if it was a variation of the woodruff key where it extends beyond the keyway damage. Don't answer if, well i was just curious. fuzload

Actually, when you think of it GenC, it could happen. I don't mean to lecture or anything. It's just a combination of your circumstances. You already said the belt was in poor condition,evn had cracks. That means it's stretched and the lobes have worn too. Consider that the crank has half the (teeth) of each of the timing sprockets. The mechanical advantage of the crank sprocket is reduced at least 4X when driven backwards. Then IT has to overcome the compression resistance of the opposing bank. So belt area to the opposing bank would just like to bend and ride over the crank sprocket. I'm editting because I thought you had been turning the passenger side. Much of this doesn't apply yet maybe worth knowing. Turning the LH/drivers side should have had better luck. IIRC it takes a few revs for the marks to line up right again. Woulda been easier with plugs out man.

Yep you're right. 2 outa 4 I wouldn't even touch. that 1.01MM works out to .03976".

Yeh. You guys are right. It never occurred to me someone would use a belt sander. That explains a lot. A good mill file or drawfiling would have corrected a lot. Getting below that gouge would require actual milling, then it may be below the specs. It's not Just thickness which can be adjusted by a thicker headgasket. The coolant passages on some heads are actually wider inside the head compared to the surface. So if milled too far- that's where it will Blow. Good luck.