Fuzpile

Perhaps you're not following what I said. I'm not trying to complicate the earlier advice to check relays and fuses. You can very easily detach the connectors under either fan and put your alligator clips or whatever female spade conns to + and - battery and verify they run. During this you may find part of a connector bent or a wire pinched.

You are all gents. I had seen this place on ebay where it's an auction but basically U get 4 struts for $188 "delivered" They are Gabriel. Or was it Gabrial. For it would be perfect in a way to sell shocks to folks who don't know the name of the Archangel :-\ and they were crap. But this place isn't by evidence of positive reviews.

The fact it runs strong yet has this stumble may be associated with the small hoses around the EGR. Locate the EGR valve which is close to the master cyl. It faces backward and what is ahead is the transducer. Underneath that Jiz is a solenoid valve with little hoses which can be brushed off or fall off and cause these problems.

The way this Sube environments work was mystery to me. I came from very basic vehicles w/o AC. My contention is that there is a subsystem to prevent engine overheat. My Legacy upon purchase had a leaking waterpump yet didn't overheat because the AC fan was going on all the time. Having the manual then I found the main fan had a pinched connection so the AC fan had defaulted to run. Then everything was normal with the main one until winter and the AC one is the one running. I read here due to inquiry that the settings like heat(er cntl vlv)+ windshield + whatever means DEFROST and the compressor and fan goes on...which seems odd when it's freezing but it works. I never have the dreaded internal fog for long. So there is a lot of interaction.

I had a problem similar to this. i thought the ABS pulses were coming on at idle stops and i did have that motor running sound all the time. This has abated since my last brake bleed. I now have a decent pedal. This may be related to air and the depth to which the pedal travels, activates the ABS ... Anyway the information from ionlyhave3 is particular great for it explains how it may seem this way.

Not to bore anyone but the new struts should correct a few things. The car is great and nimble but there seems to be little dampening at the rear. The gas must still be up?. The front is solid with dampening yet sits low like the gas is gone. The new struts are for '97 Leg and OB Lim.

SubeFred. Yeh. Around here,carquest fi quoted 119 -90 ea for them. Advance's Monroes are in the 70's. A fellow on ebay has sets of Gabriel for cheap. Right after I ordered some NIB turned up on CL but they were still 50ea and unknown manuf.-edit I looked back at the ad. One pic has the box turned to display the # 334111 This is the KYB # for the R Front . So this pair of new ones is the best yet. Appeared only after I sent my order. Gaithersburg Md. Post ID # 2164039978

Well Fred I took your advise and ordered 4 . The price was $260 . This included 11.55 shipping, 8.90 handl and est Tax(?) 12.42. still cheaper than local.

I'm sure you had a vacuum gage on it as you've suspected a vac problem from the beginning. The exhaust becomes more restricted as internal pieces break loose and clog the output. hondas were good for that. The muffler cases were well made but much humidity resided inside from short trips and parts/plates would float to clog the exhaust.

Jack are U being obtuse? It's not OBD11 or 1 . There was a service plug in Mopars around 1979 that looked like that. A "big box" analyzer could get spark and timing, rpm info off it ...i'm just rambling because it's some dingo dash component.

Sounds like you are in the perfect spot ! I would probably do the same if ... actually i have some amazing tires on a set of Unilug rims but the offset is probably too great. 225X70X15.

This may apply. I was in a situation with my legacy with standard tires. It was an abnormally backed up, left turn lane. There were all manner of honkers and i wouldn't cut them off. They were backed outside my memory and I just went a block further. The intersection there was tight yet with standard size tires the turning circle available to me was to turn and come back and save perhaps 5 minutes without po'ing anyone. FWIW (nuttin) a short based SUV followed me and disappeared as it had to back up and recover. It had huge tires with no purpose at this time.

Impact is fine if it's not beating against axle balls and gear teeth and other flex. It's also disturbing with 4' and leverage at angle like that. Certainly the tire should be on and failing that, the brakes applied. Anything and everything to make one side solid compared to the other that's being wailed. Different car andifferent time but there were pipewrenches with cheaters grasping the axle then dropping the car down to tense it up. Then beating it.

I regret to the effect I sidelined this off slightly. You folks Know stuff and not just about Subarus.

I feel very bad about this. I'm glad you were strong. Pushing a dead Subie 300 ft cannot have been fun. Then you coulda froze. What I also see is the members here directing you to an alternative. One way or another this will work out and Because you want to save those tires it will work differently. If you really want to wash you hands of it and sold the car for> 600$ it might even work better. i hope, for otherwise it is more hassle.:-\

I'll say something else and it isn't pleasant. The Honda was a particular but nothing compared to a Subaru exhaust system. This is an expensive system. what happens with internal rot is a baffle dislodges and eventually clogs the exhaust at times.

Actually that sounds similar to what i did in a Honda CRX. It had a pretty good system also. The problem is that the change in temp and humidity causes a layer of moisture. We see it as vapor but it remains there until baked out. Then eventually rots stuff out from the inside.

Welcome back! i joined after you left. Many more are here now. We can't give you the Frappppptt greeting.

I'm not laughing. I'm not saying you were actually...... yeh you mighta been. So that means nothing. There was mention of the Ford <> 300 inline 6 . Well it was apparently super because folks put 300k mi on them. SXXX more than that. That was then. Remember those longass maifolds, where will yo ever see that agin. Tis gone. i would like to say the same of various other engines but some few rise. The huge flatheads the Big sixes and the eights. Well they could pull a freakin house down but ...well they were and are still great. Never again. Yet you have to like them a lot. Or not. Because there was .... The ..

Then again F'tax has displayed some along the line which could do this. It's Flyin great if you look at all the inputs and how they are governed by sensors. Remember this was similar to washing machine hot and cold valves and the solenoids there, triggered by timers. Never really got into that too much.

I did say tech or trouble. If I was to sit here and think I know what you do then i'm an @hole yet there are other things. Just a passenger in a Subie with friends along the way. I hope to expire some knowledge along the way. because if I don't the input will destroy the atmosphere. emmisions

I read it more and need thank you more. I'll be watching for this blockage stuff later. They are a different critter to me.

Thanks guys. I'm going to have to think about some things you said. The compressor wasn't on to my knowledge--although that's where i'm getting to if the fan fan came on. It was just the heat control turned way up and upper over heating worked great. That could be really simple and makes sense.

Yes Fairtax except the 318 was good and also the 350. I'm not very knowledgable about many more because i was into smaller vehicles while everyone was spinning wheels. I was into FWD since eek 1969 Makes me old AND VERY Unpopular back then. Yet there were times.

'97 Legacy. No big deal. The weather has been blistering cold lately.... Heater valves redirect heated coolant thru the core, nbd. The extremity to how they do it with EJ22 (for they run very cool) is that they cut the loop so far to get heat out of the engine that the Fan comes on? Seriously. The engine runs fine and not hot except there is a little stink of Other parts being heated. So they are cooking one part to give me heat to where the fan comes on? I rarely does that in summer. I checked already the overflow canister which hasn't moved in months so remove the rad cap to see it's to the top. That sorta computes because these are cool running. Any thoughts, anyone else's fan come on. ?