Fuzpile

I do want mention that your attention to these details is correct. I could go on and on about other cars with seized calipers. You don't need that. Those little boots are very good. There is a :-\special grease which can be used after the pin is clean ( smooth one, I wouldn't mess with) The deal is once removed or protected away from (who am I kidd'n) a wire wheel is good on ferrous things. AVOID Carborundum around this part. Even silicon. Carb is worse. The fine particles embed ito the metal and any amount of grease is mere lubricant for a reaming.

A friend of mine has a VW which is notorious (for some reason) of not starting. It would be better if not all the freakin headlamps and stuff weren't lighting up at the precious moments of cranking. It is befowled in some way and so is yours. Defeating the illumination of the problem is not always correct for there is architecture in these wiring schemes and a balance sometimes required. Then base falls and presents the brain to go a certain way. It is probably in active alarm mode and working itself in a frenzy with no output.

My head flew. Things are looking good. Exceedingly clean. Then there may have been remachining done some K miles ago and this lil heart will beat forever. almost

No . I never did and mine should mess up if one is going to. It really is a good system. A small story; There is this highway which is a thurowfare well it's a pia when backed up mess and this freakin new Corvette cuts me off and is itching to show his HP and I'm sorta pissed about that so I'm close behind him and all these police basically cut right into the whole thing and Mr Corvette stands on His brakes (which are very good!) and I hit mine really hard !!!!!!!!!!!! I know cars, it it woulda slid and I buy that 'Vette but it didn't. That Legacy just gripped the road and stopped scary good. The 'Vette guy Knew I saved him a neck injury.

Hello and Welcome:) ! True. Best site. Fine car the 1990. We all had deep snow Together Poland is very special to me. Your English is Very much better than my Polish. All I remember is Neva- so I don't remember:-\

Mike, I'm starting to feel like a jerk because I reread and you spent plenty and got a New fuel pump . You don't need to test this or anything I went thru. The curious thing is that I read it different and so I responded to what I thought neccessary at the time. I think there was a reason for this. That seems to be the way things work at times. Because of your post and the way I saw it someone else's house doesn't burn down. Some way this worked. And there is a relay to that fp which some get flakey. Expected you already knew that.

OB99.. I suspect you were right earlier. I think that part of the fuel rail was contaminated. Recall that he diagnosed it and replaced that injector and it worked Fine. Then it went to crap. It's not like you didn't already caution about keeping the ends and lines clean for a reason.

I NEED TO SAY SOMETHING RIGHT HERE. This scenario is eerily familiar. It IS Cold outside as it once was with me testing after a repair of a Lucas electric fuel pump YEARS ago. The scenario CANNOT be the same for you. Please, Please only outside! I didn't want to run water thru the thing and had no kero so had a pan of gasoline on the workbench and this fuelpump had a bakelite cover which could be removed and you would actually adjust the "points". Was almost done and the fumes and spark hit:eek: ther is the huge flash and then a flaming pan with flames reaching the stringers above. My Dad would've killed me if i didn't kill them all with this fiasco by burning the house down. I grabbed the pan of gasoline to rush out the closed door. Splilling flaming gasoline on the way. It was terrible. I hose everything off then me eventually. I spent two weeks in the hospital and have scars to this day.

Super welcomes.! Very nice and character indeed. Could I say thanks for your service without saying it? It was great about your little kid and I hadn't thought about that. Yeh cranks, gears and stuff. Nice machine.

Yep it's coming up. now the rears have to be done. Then there are tires with perhaps huge wheels. Beware friend. These are over the top polite machines and not the brutes we may have experience with. Your Jeep(s) are a tight package. My old stuff was brutal effective as well. These are not them and they will break. There is so much more to be stealth and take it on than to pretend and bust your Suubie then hate it. They are really cool cars but i'm a sentimental sort of rump roast, I guess.

Hey there Naturedude ! Sounds similar to my family. Around those times when we were young a Subaru was mearly an interesting notion. I believe my Dad & I went to see some model, probably a 360 and I commented about the dashboard being cheap or the underpanels cardboard. Some such thing. Well he never got a Suubie to replace the Superbeetle. He got into Saabs:-\ And my first New car was a '75 Scirroco:eek: Talk about trouble, talk about cheeeeep. Anyway I'm now convinced I missed a bunch along the way.

Last to first. not exactly stealth yet cool. That Impreza and those wheels were a perfect match. They just Are no matter how U paint them. It is all delectible and tastey to be snatched away. the whole package. Beaut machine yet the <other> has no reguard, has no respect. :slobber::slobber:

One could say that they were pigs yet one wasn't there like you were. To crush the pan and cause this is complete disrespect and criminal. Yet again they would always have another version. I can't Know except for evidence. And You stated it never had those probs before and they deliver it back with all lites and codes. They will reap what they sow and are sorta over if that is the way they deal with the general populace.

my little chirp here.. You already have a stinkin bias against this car. It is suitable for parts. That's it Because as soon as it's :-\ (possibly) in your possession, somebody else gets the one you were really looking for AND somehow you meet that person AND they are hauling dogs

Firstly, Your post title was intriguing to me yet I'm not the one who can help in this particular situation. Perhaps you could edit the title of an otherwise well displayed enigma to something like "rationale of upgrade or replacement" or that sort. For many a look into the future, for me a glimpse into my future comes into focuss as a WALL and I will hit it if I don't turn one way or another. Good luck.

Mk, Welcome to about The best club! One could say ultimate. I think you're right-on about what happened. A little background; I'm relatively new here myself and got my 1st subie (97 Legacy) about 14 mo ago. I had many issues where the experts here assisted me or it was covered in the extensive FAQ or Archives. My Haynes manual says that P0748 is shift Circuit solenoid malfunction. I'm sure you will fix it with maybe some ramps if you're fat:) Either way chime in the "legacy to current.." area and folks will be all over it.

The main thing is the pattern ; RF LR LF RR which is odd to me. I leave the cap on loosely and slow push and release. Mine actually improved even tho I did them myself. One bleeder broke so I used the banjo bolt 3 of them were done with a hand vacuum pump(sealing threads with certain grease). The banjo boy required a 2X4 wedged against the pedal and seat cushion lip -Very tight. Then loosened the banjo and it spit and was tightened. A better way was to use an old liftback strut fixed a similar way because it has a long stroke.

It may be the m cyl eventually if you go to the floor when bleeding. There was thread just recently which is worth reading and mentions that (as grandad knew) you don't scrunch out every mm of an old m cyl because the cups can get cut on rust/debris.

The first codes you mentioned were not in My manual but the others were. I only expect they would display numerically and IF it was MAF then while cranking....etc. If you haven't already done it, you could crank with the maf disconnected and see what that says, clearing the others first. Don't want to lead you wrong. 777 has tons more experience and it's wiring somewhere.

Probably the easiest is the first codes. That P1100 and 1101 are really P0100 and 0101 which is MAF sensor stuff. That b will mess everything else up. If that gets disconnected it flat stops the engine and then all other codes can get generated.

I can edit this all out in a few days. I don't intend to distract from the thread. Only that there are ways suggested to measure the effective working diameter and that includes this cross section.

Re my measurements. The problem with this is that would mean twice that difference approaching the magic number. I need a set of 4 185-195x70x14.

Re the measuring; My legacy had different brand tires F/R same basic size yet I was concerned and measured them with a BFC (caliper) to compare the outside diameter. It was about .125" (1/8) difference. I just measured with a tape measure across the tire from inner rim lip to outer lip (very straight) and see 1/8" difference that way too.

This is a terrible situation for as you know the fuses are right under that area. I don't mean to waste your time because there are tubes which get choked off sometimes under the sunroof channels. They should never back up to the forward area. The windshield is sealed profusely and is quite a piece of work. There is some evidence of that seal you can see under the hood. LOOK before you clean. One here know of a boot or plug that can do this.

The evaporative systems are like those in many vehicles. They work so well we don't pay any attention to them. When two or one big one mucks up it can cause lots of problems.