Fuzpile

Dali, perfect! These have to be some incredible engines to withstand that abuse and still run. I just had to say something because I'm a fool yet I'm so anal I removed 7 oz of oil from my EJ because it was at the V and not at the "dot". I don't know about folks whose vote cancels mine.

UB, Gen D is getting back to you. He knows all about these. It could be the hdwe store grade is homeowner grade and not as precise. Also since he mentioned a mag-drill and it's alum block it's because he knows they have various steel plates with differnt holes that will line up to block bolt holes. What a person Could do is use a smallish drill press but it may flex. The unthreaded area will accept a bushing. Inside the bush will accept a straight punch which are of every dia. That is what pokes the start of the next drill which might excactly fit that bushing too. Then the last size is guided by above plate/etc and that true pilot hole.

When I was doing this there was a kit which had helic, tap and driver except i really didn't like that the length wasn't the same. The problems of two and possiblity one would shift and lock the bolt is frightening. there must be a special procedure about that. The centering is so important becase if a tap or bolt is run in a hole and some part of the old bolt is there, it breaks loose and wedges. then stuff gets broken.

Ubaroo. The odd bolt (7/16x20 0r x22?) is going to be harder to find than the Subie bolt and will react different to the heating. Some may wonder if its breakage caused some of this tbl. The setup for drilling out is important in alignment. A plate or bushing so the pilot size goes absolutely straight. Then at a larger size a LH bit can be employed and sometimes the old thread core will wind out without cutting into the threads.

I have also experienced this yet not with my Subie. What was related earlier happens on GM cars. Just like our friend says a carbon/filter deal which is supposed to recyle vapor only upon startup, becomes saturated with raw fuel.

when I was buying parts for my legacy at an auto parts place this guy was sorta interested and remarked about subaru. It turned out he is a professional mechanic/tech and works on all sorts of cars and was actively seeking an Imprezza. wth does that mean? It might mean he's seen hundreds of vehicles in out upside down and like many here have that experience and like a Subaru.

Things like this are remembered. The broken bit in the broken bolt. The broken carbide bit behind that. Broken ... easy out. looks like the flywheel was ground out.

Pay close attention to what John said. He recommended drilling from the back because that direction would unwind, if at all, the proper direction. Drilling out bolts is tricky and there should be some temporary guide bushing or predrilled bar clamped to guide the drill straight. You need start off with a sharp prick excactly in the middle and then your small pilot bit won't wander off.

The pics don't come in completely. There was some carnage visible. one can see where the TC was flying around but those dished ground out bolt areas on the flywheel are trouble. I am not the one to be of assistance thru this like others here who know vastly more. I believe we would agree you got hosed.:-\

Hi! Talking New new? I need watch for that. Still catching up on Subies. I walked past a pristene Imprezza yesterday and almost stopped to really look it over. Then it was gone.

I believe you need do some things which are B4 messing with injectors. You already told us clues and a shorting alternator or being driven nuts by a ground will definatly slow down and sometimes defete proper ignition.

really you have described a headgasket leak. You can do a compression test or other things to locate which bank and only deal with that one. There are mixtures dropped in engines all the time which temporarily seal but no since it is yours.

One bank,code. Sounds like one is correct for the timing sensor and the other is out.

Many would not call it suffering. My brother had one and it served him. These Legacys are a different thing and I'm sure if the General redid it it is fine. I notice you have what appears to be 15" stock OB alloys. Are those 205 ? Welcome for sure and your trip with a nice one like that should be great.

Another good point made. I work on L/G tractors a bit. The arbor bearing assys wear or seize. The seized bearings wear into the housing and the blades eat into the deck and people just keep mowing. The main belt overheats so much before it fails it warps the crank pulley. That pulley overheats the engine ruins seals etc.

The Tips just keep on coming! I have to check on this last one. MIne with latch up and closed won't really latch. The problem is having it running and just push the door closed and 1 1/2 sec later it would lock right up. My remote is an Avita.

Suzanne. It's not really you need a latch, you need it TO latch. Already lots of parts there. It could be the handle broken. It could be the rusty spring froze up. Lot's of these things just need taken apart, cleaned/freed and put back together. If you know what part is bad that is good.

I'm Not Supposed to lock myself out! I have the same yr and it happened once and i cut another key. i either run the window down or set the door sw to unlock. That's it. After I bought this car I started it up shut the door and was locked out! I called the po and he reminded me the tailgate didn't latch. I fixed all that stuff and remote start but I keep a separate key to get in.

Welcome! THESE GUYS , are the real deal and welcome new explorers. They know tons. All the crap you went thru, you coulda had some help. Now you may be a helper. I suppose I should mention that there are various places FAQ etc where everything was already asked and answered . Kinda weird you already didn't miss it because it's still here.

Glad you got another engine and got all that work done. You probably changed plugs. The old coolant in the exhaust isn't going well with the sensors and cats really hate it. There is probably a place you could drill a hole for the liquid form to leak out then run a screw up it. The smoke is aggravating while it's baking out. You can run hose (like an actual garage hose) or even a shopvac hose into a bucket of water to filter that.

There's a thread today about similar problem. One more knowledgeable about these suggested measuring for AC with a DVM at the hot end of the alternator or at the fuse box itself. It shouldn't show more than .1v AC (i think he said) That makes sense if your new alternator is defective-which happens. Another thing is about the battery when one cell is dieing it is about that difference of 11 ish volts while running to max 13ish. Other owners report around 14v charge. Borrow a good battery for a test.

Sensors break down. Like spark plugs that test great but won't fire over compression. There is a sensor for AT temp which goes directly into the ecu. Why can't that stick when it gets old? Great one way or another but lagging like a bad thermostat.

Definitely out of topic. Curiously, I have an EJ22 and had a "tap" at warmup. I wouldn't call it a "rod knock" Might be hydraulic lifters on this because something would change with heat. Was all set up to get into it but changed oil to Valvoline Max-Life. The oil had changed to a semi-synthetic (it was good before with my 280k mi truck). For some reason it freed up that lifter. Purolator Pure One filter didn't hurt when they were on sale together with the oil. No leaks.

Twitch,glad you came back. I see why you may raise a brow. There are actually three of those serial number trackers I know of. Hell I don't WHY they would but it all goes somewhere. It's triangulation and on file. I'm just a lowly Subie driver myself. I don't think I should have any enemies but I might. This is a good thing you are trying to do and am sure it's done all over. Not trying to make you or anyone paranoid. Just that, as you indicated, a few digits are not displayed right here. They are of no use unless towards other motives.

The Length of the shaft hasn't changed That much. Once the sprocket is removed it may need only some weld and reslotting but I would get a new one. That restores the face there. It's almost certain he's getting another pulley. There are piles of these things if the 2.5 uses them.