Fuzpile

T'were me friend Nipper. Not a chance for me to disagree too strongly for he's of wisdom beyond mine in many areas. However if were a 6 to be a 9, who would mind? Something curious about heating systems with these more technical Subie cars is that the heating valve for inside heat is Not old style. i will make a new thread.

:banana:I disagree with a later post. Many engines went beyond 60k . A fellow was saluted a year ago with his orig Volvo P1800. It went 1,000,000 with the same engine. Toyo's and various diesels go a long time and many V-8 has 200k+ so maybe u should rethink that.

Early Merry Christmas to you all. True a family with Subarus. Many of us have experience with French cars also. It was very difficult to find parts and we have similar experience in the difficulty. Then it was Depanauto and now something different. You must be very well with your AWD Subarus over the last few winters. Traction avant then awd

The explanation given earlier about whether it rides over or claws under is good to know about. This is basic weight to patch stuff but there is more. There are many tires sold now which are a bargain. They appear to have good unidirectional and aggressive tread. EXCEPT they are all the same tire! These are not your Daddies Michelins. If this set of tires takes a bite on the surface of slip and the digging treads all slant Left...where do you think the whole car will go? This has been bugging me an i don't trust it.

Hello again my friend. You have a good machine for this investment. I am surprised that nobody has answered your questions. Your english type is good enough that you could directly enter the sub-board of 1980's GL and pose this question to them who Know more than me. I will give you some information I know from experience with many vehicles. The Subaru is not a truck and pretend to be one for a short time. There were many engineering compromises to make it a safe AWD and also high speed automobile. To your question, yes you can do it and yes it will kill your car. Slowly kill your Subaru. The strength and support of these various members and the way they are made.....cannot last a long time with huge wheels/tires in my opinion. I am giving opinion without actually owning that car. I remember Rallies which broke thru the Iron Curtain then. They were so good and Subaru was flying winner in many. They had the best transmissions and even then they were not trying to strip the splines or gears with huge tires. So. You can do it but Carefully.

Let's just cut thru it. It's a motor mount.

Serious roll bar and build the frame off that.

Whew! You hung in there John. There's like 3 different people with similar probs/indications and i just get mixed up. The 1st fellow had already drained his rear diff and a tip off is the Smell of the oil and work a magnet in it and see what comes up. Anal yet true clues. One thing which I disagree with is a paperclip. I know you just meant that"it doesn't really matter" yet it isn't as correct as a 10A. whatever but who knows what size paperclip ? Another thing about the rear diff/punkin is that it's still turning inside. The side pressure of the pinion to crown wheel isn't there. So the noise is the input bearing giving way or it already has and there goes the deal. The whine says that it happened.

Whereas the tendency is to go larger with a Legacy There is something to be said for a strong steel wheel. There is something great about 185X70X14 tires. There is appreciation for the way a wagon can maneuver into tight spaces or make a U-turn in streets only a Honda could go. Effortlessly! This was the engineering that the designers relied upon to something as basic as the "front axles". There are all sorts of ways to make a Cardan or double U-joint stronger. There are CVs and then there was this type which has maximum extension. Couple that to a decent tranny which gives a good balance to torque yet in 4th has very low engine rpm for cruising. That's pretty much what it is stock. I like it. I like not looking like some turf eater snoutfaced brute sitting in traffic and Who can gently climb over curb or take on an icey street while the big stuff spin their huge tires. It's stealth and it's fine

The mention of the video escaped me not. I just have to get to main subject before this times out. I'm also into tractors somewhat; loader buckets and backhoes and crawlers. Good stuff. The alternate of that are old cps like this one. They can't handle the vids very well. Don't rush on my account, I have no doubt that it was as you described. Just wait till your post is more widely seen here. Better put a cumfy chair next to the keyboard I haven't really helped you in a technical way yet. Having resurrected that engine to running means you know a bunch already. Imprezzamento.

You know we talk about these issues because they are problems and there are 1000X Subies running around with nothing to report. I worked on a Pontiac recent GM model and it was never off-road and regularly was used and had attention. One of the calipher pins was actually So stuck. I mean it had the little boots on the pins, everything. I had to take the whole thing off then apart and do many things to free it.

Only because this was on MeetnGrete on a friday. Otherwise you will be bombarded by folks. It is cool then rockin then ultra rockin to have a friend in Texas who is you.

Well Felonie I already Like you. Neat project since the eng/transaxle is all in one tight package. You're aware of the old VW and Cit 2Cv that were modified that way. Could proly be built to a square tube type welded frame. Somebody already did it so search the archives here and other places-seems a natural. So welcome:) and great you saved most the Good stuff.

This isn't funny or anything but the 2nd post and you're ready to yank the engine and convert the driveline. Just a day ago there's a guy who was adament about keeping his origional because it was lo miles etc. Not excactly the same model. It's the way it is. I hope you get it running to see how it was.

Undoubtedly you will receive some timely info. I would suggest you also search "head gasket" or "EJ25 head gasket" . There have been recent threads to where with an inspection lite you could determine whether they were "newer improved" gaskets. The fellow (i don't even have an ej25) mentioned certain tabs which are prominant and where they stick out and stuff. good luck

Hi. Before I was here this thread appeared. Before you were here there was another thread which should be interesting to you. I don't know excactly but the guy went under the rear seat and finds where all this hooks up to. I believe he was able to pull a new line in while pulling the old out without any serious removal. Good luck.

Yeh. I think if it has ABS then discs all around.

Welcome to the board:banana: that's gotta be pretty rare w that lo mileage. You probably already saw the section that's all about the '80's ones. Perfect timing.

Yeh Reeves! Seems like they should have it right by now. I remember an early article in 1967-71 Popular Mechanics. Some little Dutch car, DAF, iirc had them. Well actually it was cones but same principle.

The waterpump has its gasket and it is torqued down evenly among the 6 or whatever bolts. When mine was leaking I had to get everything off to see where excactly it was from and by that time I saw other things which needed replaced. I just replaced it with a better one but the problem was really that one bolt was loose. One is sorta hidden. If it leaks from the shaft or a little hole under the shaft then it's just shot anyway.

Per the remote yeh clean up the fob. The windshield pillar trim, left side holds one sensor. They were origionally held in by a "sticky" tape which dried out so mine showed wear and breakage of the shielded area of the cable 'cause the thing can rattle around in there. Worked fine afterward-even remote start which I didn't even know it had.

It would be tempting for me to say the tires are not tall enough. They don't look aggresive enough until I think about a few things. First I think they should be at least the circumference of a 185X70 and then the tranny works well yet not too large . The aggressive tread you have may be real good now. So then there is nothing to say except it's cool.

U just can't get nicer than some here. Grossgary being one. Btw for regular polyestyene plastic a plastic cement works for it actually fuses. The old type which is now illegal was more effective yet too many took to sniffing it insead of building things so the composition was changed. (a particulary bad way to go, sniffing glue). A particularly good way to go in repairing the heavy plastic which border on bakelite and don't melt -Is the Loctite Plastic bonder. This stuff is amazing good. It is semi epoxy due to the "actvivator" but follow the directions:grin:

After the various things it should've lit a CEL. There is a thing about this ECM, a section which is a "learning control" area. This effects the bypass air control valve throttle valve and sensor. if I read this right it's a loop which on the other side passes thru the igniter to the coil. So theoretically anyone of these disturb the loop. A scan tool proper for a Subaru OBD2 should pick up codes associated with one or more of these problems. That's all fine except most likely you can disconnect the battery for 15-60 mins and some will reset and it may start. It's important to see what they are before clearing them because it will likely return.

Axgutt. You've received good advise already. I wish you and your wife the very best with the new blessing. It's great she had a Man to rescue the situation. Along that line, i wonder why it has such a Strong click allof a sudden.:-\ maybe something else got moved or damaged. it's worth checking while on the lift. Also those steel belts are nasty when they go flailing around they cut stuff up like a saw blade.