Fuzpile

There's some wet "grinding" op I wouldn't know about for alum heads. Grinding is typical for iron but aluminum tends to clog and burn into the abrasive causing hot-spots and bad things. What is similar is a rough file which has picked up a piece of alum andor hard carbon and this has embedded into some teeth. Drawn across the softer head, it can gouge..

Your distress about this is perceived. The gap in your plugs is listed as .039-.043. The NGK base type as listed here is PFR5B-11 That collapsed bottom hose concerns me.I haven't heard or seen that in a long time. The pros here probably have...not good. The wire socket/plug is sometimes difficult to remove and if you have the car down awhile, you could remove just that one and use the old wire until later. Something about #4 is that you gotta really get your arm and adaptors/extension in there to get to it. There's a lot of "stuff" in the way if set up like a 2.2 of same year. So it's good to see what you can about #4 before you start; loose injector conn or wire laying on hot manifold or excessive oil... There are little vac hoses which can be brushed off or split before or after getting out a tight sparkplug. Egr and Iacv whatever can cause rough running and a code. Actually it could be that he ran it so dry it picked up water and fouled an injector. Always something :banana:

I thought most resurfacing was really milling with a vertical facing head. Like a large flycutter, it leaves faint arcs for it's part of a circle. It does require a very precision setup and sharp tooling. The pic'd head appears to have been done with a file and one too rough. You can see the lines/faint scratches are all in a line with the gouge. ther also appears to be faint camfering at the edge of the comb chamber which again could happen by bearing on a file.

I do not mean to divert. The 2nd pic reminds me that my dipstick for the front differential is really loose. I'll do a new O ring tomadda.

Toes dude. It was a good question and I learned some things thru it. There would be an interface between the abs and a pad, I suppose akin to a joystick. You see what side is spinning and goose the brake there. Would be great. They just couldn't Make it that way. Big

That's not what I said. I wouldn't advocate purchasing a fixable OB for only that and trashing the rest. I don't believe in squeezing the owner who may have been very proud to own this vehicle. Then the engines are all supposed to be************ and everybody sorta thinks they know it and all the investment is down the tubes. NO. The car is worth a lot. You just have to be in his situation whatever that is, to repair it or transplant a refurbished 2.2 .

Hi I just happened to be here. I've been thru this with other cars. It also comes down to Need transportation, Need space and privacy, Need this to come together fairly quickly. We have to face the likelyhood that OB had some serious problems before it just "didn't start" . Even with receipts that a ton of work was already done, why would it be < 1k $ . This with 210k mi is a project in itself. It probably has good wheels and tires or you wouldn't even look. One thing is the weather and perhaps your ability to work on stuff without neibors looking up your behind. Your 2.2 could be swapped in a couple hrs by guys here ( not me ,not you) Then there are other issues which are worth researching about ecm non-matchup and issues. Other issues. So you would have to buy two cars. This OB and some beater that runs while the job goes on plus the other stuff like privacy and tools. The other possibility as we come out of winter is someone releases one for maybe 5-600 more but it already runs good. That way you could pull your 2.2 and do maintenance stuff to it and get it ready for the big swap down the road of time. Just my .02

Haynes says 29 ft-lbs for the ball joint /cntrol arm nut. Axle nut 123-151 ft-lbs

Yeh that makes perfect sense! Maybe when they got the electronic traction control down they said HEY we got the basis for abs (safety safety)

Probably this has been mentioned but a "porta-power" could be used. The back fixture that goes around the rotor would be about the same. The outside would be different design to etc. Some of these little piston attachments Pull. -a chicken in every pot, a lathe in every kitchen

AMR9000. I responded to this hours ago only to find it's not updated. It was a fair long response about where I come out like an rump roast and expecting you to know everything about every puller. It was very apologetic in that I didn't realise (or forgot) your situation. I have no problem expressing my regret for the way you took my earlier reply. I believe you come out looking Very bright and many other good qualities. Plz do not think that everyone else here would have lambasted you for not reading every thing. I didn't realise the entire situation. Your maturity in Not comitting this amount $$ for may be a One-time job makes sense as does understanding the process before beginning. I'm sure it's been mentioned; any store like Advanced, AutoZ, Napa who has loaner tools and from whom you've bought parts or have credit would loan these out. The directions then would be clear copies for that particular tool.

Listen AMR9000 person. He already put you thru the process. Others have delivered beyond the wealth of info Already in storage here. It's like it happened yesterday except when they hadn't explained the same thing over and over. Wait now . I'm not in any position to cut You down. This whole deal is about help. It's like one doesn't recommend you buy a huge set or a gearpuller if you haven't the experience with these more different. Believe me there different beyond. I don't know or remember your circumstance. It would be a visual and mental treat for you to present this situation to a machine shop_-Knowing what you know and how they will apply what they already know and have on hand. You would be amazed about the talent that is there. There are some hurting for work and last thing would be to mess U up.

Oh yes..Recently there was an entire thread about this and the adaptors to different m/c. That should be archived, it was SO good. (prolly is FAQ) You were right there davebugs I just didn't think that far to where he needed it now. It makes perfect sense. Except still there is that Order, I think.

Insofar the knuckle was off, application of heat would have been perfect.

Guys the info was put here, the links were provided so you get the idea. I believe it was said early that there was no specific recomendation, Yet be assured,....Itand a can be done with pieces of pipe scrap and a puller. The linkto the Ken Tool Shark sys is definitely worth a save. You don't need the whole set nor much of it with the assembly removed already. However, in order to do it ON the vehicle required that surrounding attachment. It's the concept. Like Gd said,sortof you can heat the hell out of things or beat the sxxt out of stuff or you can do it right.

Hello. I do not relish your position as I've been there. I doesn't make logical sense yet this is a different vehicle and the X-conn ,dual directional stuff is different. It would be helpful to know which corner but either requires a system. for the air has travelled thru it. Plz bear with me. The vacuum pump deal works ok yet it's awkward and the tubing slipping and the turning distorts the vacuum reading and it appears something has SHUT OFF -which it has. It was supposed to. If you recall some vehicles required a manual reposition of this valve, Subie does it different. Whatever corner you already bled, go bleed Right Front then LR then LF then RR. I need tell you I thought this procedure ineffectual as I would test the brakes and keep level up during each one. It was always the same until the last one where around there the bleeder broke off:eek: I had to loosen the Banjo bolt, pry a 2x4 against the seat cushion so it would depress the pedal further. It worked. Like new brakes yet they were still old. No more bananas

Yeh, Will. I didn't want to go thru all that in prev . Certainly Carbide and it certainly needs oriented upon the carraige so that when cutting one side it remains the same without remounting. I didn't have all the cone attachments at the time. I had some crazy setups with the compound slide backwards. Stuff to reach around and achieve concentric on the two faces. In the end I opted to See what brake lathes do, which is two longass cutting bars going against each other. I don't remember excactly for there are different designs. Only thing I know is that relocation for the other side was a b 4 me and I found that measurable error was too far 4 Too much work. I certainly woulda, if neccessary. 'Twernt .

Happy last San Patrick's to you all:) . My little input among all the others. It seems this is Not the belt it should be and I still suspect the bearings. I just have respect for Fairtaxguy for going thru all this. This was remarkable to do and record this which serves us all. There are now further reasons to suspect that particular kit yet I think it was a sequence of individuals rising to the surface.

Very good point! I read the Mitsu..part in my head and thought to spell out an automaker instead of the belt maker. Now that i know more about their company, I expect the standards are very high and that would be the quality component of the kit. previously mentioned. where isn't the problem.:cool:

The reason I mentioned is that he said he Needed to. I agree the origional iron is likely .. better than the replacement. Just saying if he's already there doing pads (why else was he checking) then that would be the time. Anyway Fairfax eats...brakes that is. Heck without glazed areas or warped or contaminated greased in, That rotor would last way beyond the next set of pads.

Since you said U need to, then it's time to replace. 2mm is right small. The previous info is Great:) as usual about hard spots etc. If you are near needing pads, then that is most the work right there. The rotor isn't going to explode or anything until way under the min. FWIW I spent a day with a regular engine lathe , finageling..mounting relocating ,measuring, cutting a Toyota rotor. (A brake lathe is a different animal) In the end what was killing me were those "hard spots" . It was only worth the knowledge. Carquest --$19.00 ea.

I think it would be premature to panic over a kit which has been previously installed and doesn't exhibit the SCREAMIN CATs :eek:noises. The main things I see is new Idlers which have bearing "wiggle" . This combined with the previous post of finding belt material inside some cogs lays a trail. I can conceive where that may be if I was there. The combination of elements has the belt fighting itself and making noise in the process. -unless it's a bad belt. But Heck, Mitsubishi is good stuff . Then again I never Owned one. hmmmm

Thanks for your informative post. Fixing those seals And the pump seal you gained an engine.

I have to be careful because U already know more and I don't know shinolas about 2.5 except. bad timing belt or belt out of alignment. Every now and then(not saying on Subies) a belt is smaller on one side. So then it would be the same if a worn cam sprocket was Smaller on one side with a perfect belt. So then there would be a noise where whatever locators tend to rub.

Well you cut me a break there not calling me a total bonehead. i'm absolutely sure it works well even though there aren't particularly many of long-lived BMW engines that I would know about. I suppose i'm enthralled about about the whole deal except constantly escape the long road ahead and focuss on after it happened. As gasoline floats on oil and would normally collect as would humidity in a filter suspended underwise. It is different.