WoodsWagon

I thought you said the RX wasn't going to get modified Is this 87+ engine setup going into the wagon, or is the RX becoming the new engine stand for testing the limits?

Everything that would unbolt was. There is literally nothing else on the car than what I listed.

An inch of snow and then slush came down. My legacy was enjoying the benifits of having bald and reversed unidirectionals on it. I reset the computer, so I have full power again(untill the light comes back on) Second gear powerslides, reverse and forward nuts. I love snow. Just had to share.

Your car has an anti-theft system? that might have the power to cut off everything else if left unplugged overnight.

The foot rest is a block attached to the firewall to the left of the clutch so that when your left foot is not working the clutch it has a convienient place to rest. hence the label "foot rest", possibly incorrect but made sense to me. The car is chained into the bucket of our tractor right now, ready to be deposited onto the flatbed to teh junkyard. Its sad to see it go, but it really has no redeming value. I stripped it down so that all that is going with the monocoche <sp?> is the winshield, gas tank, vaccume line for the booster, carpet, and the two rear side windows. Everything else got removed and stored in my shed. Never know when I might pick up another 3-door (or RX ). The engine and tranny had only 93k on them, but the body had huge amounts of rust. Can you say flinstone car? Rocker panels? what rocker panels? Car looked perfect till you looked underneath. All for the want of a regular car wash. note location of resedense. The foot rest has its traction part glued to it, It may break while you're tprying at it with a screwdriver, but there are three 10mm bolts under neath that hold it on. It will be going in my loyale.

Resque it,then drive it till it blows. Hey, it might have another 20k in it, just depends how hard you beat on it.

I've put a good 150-200 up there without anything bending permanantly on my beater.. Just dont hit bumps too hard.

I just finished stripping my 86 3-door down to the body and winshield. The body weighs notmore than maybe 400 lbs. I can pick the front up off the ground and lift it a good 3ft in the air, with only the back touching, same with the back end. i was amazed at the lack of weight that holds the car togeter. I can see why people strip their cars before racing them. There is only the left foot rest left inside the body, and i want to remove it, but I can't figure out how.

I have the sprayer for the back. I have the mirror trim thingy somewhere, it may take some digging. I have the winshield, but well.... its kinda a long way to ship. If you need any other interior parts, I have a full grey and darkish blue interior. Send me a PM.

Seeing as the SPFi, which 4runnerrick has, not a carb, cars draw air from lowish in the front of the quarter pannels to start with, maybe making a straight pipe from the underside of the box up towards the rear top of the quarter panel and cutting some louver vents might help . If its up in water to the rear top of the quarter pannel, thats as deep as you'd want to go without sealing electrics and emmisions systems.

Take the right front quarter panel off to see what you can see and get imaginative.

I heard of a wagon like that, but they had been jumping the car a lot.

What can propane do for a gas engine? and how do you hook it up?

you shouldn't have to pump the gas, but you can pump it twice, then start the engine and leave the pedal alone, it should do the fast idle until you tap the pedal, which will kick it down to normal idle. The hitachi carb on that car can be a pain, but mine was remarkably trouble free untill the accelerator pump gave out. check the vaccume hoses running from the carb, one of them runs an actuator right ablve the throttle cable that activates the choke. somehow....

See the black surround around the face of the radio? Hook your fingers behind it where it meets the rest of the dash and pull. It eill pop right off, ther is 4 phillips screws right at the front of the radio bracket and a couple back in the middle of the sides. The antenna connector is behind the left side of the bucket attached to the bottom of the center console. It is a black connector, just pull to disconnect. Aftermarket radios will either stick out from the console when installed or be installed at an upwards leaning angle, as the vent and heater core box limit the space for the radio. The rear door speakers are a bolt in swap from any older wagon, just cut the right sized hole in the door trim, and snap the connector on, its already there and wired up.

why would you want to? i know that there is a black box to the left of the radio when you remove the radio that has a connector that, when removed, disables the chime.

Hmmm. plans are simmering. i may take the engine out of my legacy instead of my neighbors, which needs helicoiling, and put it in my Loyale. Then put the manual tranny from my legacy into the turbo, and ditch my legacy for the turbo one. Or, depending on the body, I may switch the engine from the turbo car to mine. First i have to dispose of the GL i've been stripping and get the title for my legacy. Then parrental permission is needed. Maybe i should concentrate on what I have and let this opppertunity slip by. Then again, I could put the turbo engine in my Loyale. Now there would be a sleeper! So many choices. how many horse is the turbo 2.2 btw?

Use the search on the bottom of the forum page and look for milage. There was a pissing match on who had the highest milage subie. May be of interest.

i don't believe it is auto adjusting. There are adjusting nuts on the crossbar that holds the cables up at the handle to take up the slack. if you had auto adjusters there wouldn't be the need for that.

i had thought of that, and I've been considering making a braket to hold 2 Ebrake handles nad heave each of the cables run by its own handle. I'm sure its been done before. Take off the trim pannel right under the lever and look at haw its hooked up. A little creativity could enhance front traction greatly. Why isn't it leagle sp? Pull both handles at the same time and it works just like the origional. Good for burnouts too.

How desireable are the 93 turbo legacy wagons. I know they only come in auto, but I heard the tranny is fairly strong. I saw an ad for on AWD one in OK condition, said "runs good" who really knows. They wanted 1k for it, but i figure I could talk about a hundred off that. it has 130k mi. on it. Is it worth it?

If the bowl vent was plogged, maybe the suction from the jet would pull gas from the tank, but it seems very unlikely to me. The pumping of the accelerator may have been pulling gas from the tank through the suction of the accelerator pump, but I doubt the car would run without the pump.

Get an alternator of of a car in the junkyard and there shouldn't be a way for the exhaust to be sucked in under the bumper, Its bolted on to the outside of the back. Unless you have some realy honking rust holes in the back, there isn't a path for the fumes. I say keep driving it. I have the remains of a car just like yours. That car was the best. It rusted to pieces. Others may dissagree with me and point out the dangers of carbon monoxide, But i don't think that there is any entry point through the back for the fumes.

Another thing to consider is where you support the car. Rust may have weakened the jacking points to the point of failure. I was jacking my olg GL and had the wheel clear of the ground just before CRUNCH thea car came back down and the jack dissapeared up inside the rockerpannel. Lucky it gave way then and didn't hold till I got under. Use SOLID structural points. Just my 2cents.

The amp i will run is a strange booster amp from maybe the 80's that has 4 speaker outputs, a fader knob, a volume knob, and an analog equalizer. Only half of it works right now, something shorted and melted the power transistors on the right channel and it tried to do the same thing to the replacements that I soldered in, to be diagnosed when I get the motivation and time. I'm going to hook up the speaker wires so that onepair feeds the woofers while the other feeds the midrange an tweeter through the crossover. This will let me use the fader to controll how much power goes to the woofer vs. the higher range speakers. I was thinking that I could put in two double throw switches, one left channel, one right, to switch the signal feeding the amp's RCA connectors from the rear radio speakers to the PS2 output. The headunit will still run th door speakers.