99obw

Why, the rear wiper relay, of course. Seriously though, a little more information would be helpful. What car? On our outback most relays and fuses are pretty well labelled.

www.car-part.com

250 PSI @ 257°F http://www.daycoproducts.com/daycoweb.nsf/Product_Transmission_Oil_Cooler?OpenForm

DON'T USE FUEL LINE!!!! The lines needed are special high-pressure high-temperature tranny cooler lines. Around $3.00 per foot at your local parts store. Fuel line won't last long in this application. A tranny cooler kit should come with the proper line, though it may not be enough.

OEM. If your car came with NGK platinums you can get those cheaper at Advance Auto than the dealer. I like the subaru OEM wires, though some have said NGK wires are good.

Good synopsis Commuter. I have tried #2. Works temporarily, but once rust has taken hold it's a loosing battle. I too don't like the idea of removing them, and I still haven't, but eventually I probably will.

I hope you don't literally plan on removing the dash!!! Just the cluster. Yes, it will drop to zero.

The speedometer head is immediately behind the area of the instrument cluster that is shown in that image. Remove the five screws that you see, remove the bezel (clear plastic cover and plastic piece that the MIL etc. shine through) on the other side, and the speedo head should come right out.

If you have low coolant the engine heat won't be transferred to the radiator, as air is a poor conductor of heat.

Do a search for "head gasket". Those are classic Phase I head gasket failure symptoms.

I prefer Group IV, polyalphaolephin. Mobil 1 or Amsoil. Castrol Syntec is usually a group III, though I think the 0w-30 may be a group IV. My favorite oils right now are Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 5w-40 and Amsoil AFL 5w-40. I think the Mobil 1 5w-30 and 10w-30 are too thin for an engine with some miles on it. Amsoil 5w-30 ASL and 10w-30 ATM are great oils. Don't expect better fuel economy from a synthetic unless you make mostly short trips. You may see better economy, but it's not a certainty. Don't get me started on K&N air filters.

I must qualify my earlier suggestion to use a 15w-40. I wouldn't use 15w-40 in Michigan in the winter. I would use a 5w-40 for winter, such as Rotella T. You don't want to use the Rotella T during an Auto-RX clean or rinse cycle, only after you are done. The PCV valve is great advice.

As far as the thicker oil route, I suggest a 15w-40 HDEO, such as Pennzoil Long Life. Cheap and no mixing required. That's what I run in my oil burning 1977 John Deere garden tractor. As far as additives, I suggest Auto-Rx. It's supposed to clean up the rings and condition the seals, reducing oil consumption.

I have been airing to: Summer 35 PSI front 34 PSI rear Winter 29 PSI front 28 PSI rear with very good results. Very even wear and good traction. YMMV

I agree 100% with Rod.

It has been established on BITOG that while Delvac and Truck and SUV are similar, they are not the same oil.

Yes. You can connect it with barbed fittings into a rubber line or threaded fittings into a metal line. I am thinking of putting one on my Jeep because it only has a screen similar to the early 4EAT.

www.alldata.com should have the recall info.

I think '99 was the first year for the spin-on filter on the 4EAT. FWIW, this seems to be a pretty good inline add-on filter. http://www.emergingent.com/subpage1Magnefine.htm

That seems to be common with Haynes. I use the manual that goes to '98 for our '99. I use the manual that goes from '84-'00 for my '01 Jeep.

Nearly all auto trannies can benefit from a cooler. Most cars run the fluid through a cooler integrated into the radiator, which limits the minimum tranny fluid temperature to approximately the coolant temperature. Auto trannies will last longer if the fluid is cooled to a lower temperature, and often during towing or heavy use the integrated cooler won't keep the fluid temperature low enough.

Yes it will. The outer holes are the input to the filter, the inner threaded hole is the output. The oil from the engine would come in the center hole and would be stopped by the nitrile or silicone ADBV covering the outer holes. Stopping oil flow in the other direction would starve the engine of oil.

My point was cost. They use the cheapest filter possible. On better quality lawn equipment they don't use better foam, they use paper. On equipment where the cost of the filter is absolutely insignificant with regard to the overall cost($250,000 combine), they use paper. I disagree. Rule #1 is make the product work. Rule #2 is make it as cheaply as possible. Whether or not the features can be attained at the target cost should be determined at the functional specification stage. I work in an industry where this isn't as important as the automotive industry, but it is still a concern. I think Mobil 1 has a huge advantage here, and it's seen in the performance of their oil. As much as I like Amsoil I have to be objective. Since the last reformulation of Mobil 1 it appears that Amsoil is inferior. If Mobil 1 10w-30 wasn't so thin I would be using it. Now that the Outback is starting to use the Amsoil 10w-30 at a higher rate I am going to switch to a 5w-40, and Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 5w-40 is very tempting. I have a case of Amsoil 5w-40 on hand but it may be the last Amsoil I buy. I need to find a local source for a Mobil 1 5w-40 and some good filters.

You can't really compare the cost of the two types of filters, as the numbers of units manufactured per year is off by at least a couple of orders of magnitude. The economy of scale that applies to the paper element filters does not apply to the oiled filters. Paper, foam, and gauze are all very inexpensive raw materials. I was not speaking of only cars. I have worked on string trimmers, diesel semis, bulldozers, and much of what comes in between. The only thing I have ever seen anything other than a paper air filter on is the cheapest of the consumer grade lawn and garden equipment. My cheap chain saw has a foam air filter, my nice one has a paper element. My cheap leaf blower has a foam air filter. My 63" trail mower has a paper filter. Any idea what kind of air filter they use on a $250,000.00 combine. Paper. I am not saying that paper filters are used on everything, just the vast majority. My point with this is not to prove that I am right, but to illustrate the caution that one should exercize when trying to "outthink" the engineers that designed something. The decisions they make are often based on more complete and complex data than we have access to. Regardless of application, when filtration quality and equipment longevity are priorities, paper is chosen by most engineers. BTW: I run oiled foam pre-filters on all of my lawn equipment. Keeps the paper element cleaner and makes it last longer.

IMHO maximum engine longevity is achieved by using an OEM filter and changing it every 15k miles. K&N filters aren't all they are cracked up to be. The vast majority of OEMs use some sort of paper air filter. That tells me something. In the endless search for fuel economy and performance, if there was a good engineering decision to be made regarding the use of oiled air filters, you can be certain the OEMs would be using them.