WJM

Awesome. So any progress on getting it running at idle any smoother?

...Job/desk/office....and its....you guessed it...SUBARU! Thats right, our very own WJM had FINNALLY bagged a job at a SUBARU dealer. Many thanks to Pleiades for helping me out and putting in many good words for me here, and I was able to be the first in the door before word was put out....THANKS!!!! So, i am taking over Pleiades position, as he is moving up in the world. Now....i am working over details....but...after I get settled in, I will be able to take requests for parts and information....Pleiades has informed me that he was BOMBARDED with requests....and only had 2 sales.....so....I will be working on a system that allows for speedy service on both ends, and everyone being happy. Also....I will be dealing with the Old Skool stuff....Pleiades for the new stuff (anything EJ powered) So now, Pleiades, crazyhorse, and WJM (I) are here....what a crew! I'll be in touch with parts....I'll get osme info flowing soon as some technical things are figured out with the board admins, and the dealer. Now, back to play, i mean, err, work.

the XT's were made then...DL, GL, Turbo, GL-10 Turbo...etc....if its 4wd, and turbo...its 3.70....LSD optional. Yes, they ahd FT4WD XT's as well. I have a trans from one. its 3.70, geared the same as an RX.

You will need to swap the engine crossmember...the turbo crossmember has an indention made for the turbo header...where as the NA ones dont. Otherwise, its a pretty straight forward swap....wiring will be the interesting and fun part. Be patient on that. You will pretty much have to swap out the entire wiring harness....i woudl not do that from an XT to loyale...but use the XT parts, and then use another 1986 sedan/wagon/coupe for wiring and some additional parts. To make D/R, swap in the entire shifter mechanism.

I used bosch platnums....crap is what they are. Id go with the bosch supers over the plats anyday. BUT...if i had choise of NGKs....then ofcourse, NGKs. I use a type of NGK Racing plug in my GL-10. I dont know that the 88 RX has, i have not touched it since it does great. Otherwise, I always used the V-Power plugs, #6261 stock number at most parts stores.

Yes, it REQUIRES metereed air for the engine to run properly.

160 starts to open. 180 fully open.

Indeed, the GL-10, RX, RX, and DL run with no covers of any sort. The DL was sold to a gentleman in PA, who drove it from here to there and did not have a problem. The GL-10 has gone over 30k miles with no issues. Both RXs have seen WRC style driving on gravel roads, mud holes and creeks....never had a problem. SWEET. Thats what all of mine look like....except they are not as clean now. lol

Ive had a few different SUBARUs do this...my GL-10 did the surging under any throttle with any load...and it was HARD HARD bucking. An XT Turbo i got runnning, did it too...but its bucking was a little ssofter and more spread out. It also had the rusty tank, but it was not as heavy as the GL-10's.

Turbo, so no carb. I bet it idles great if the tank is rusty. Mine did that. Check that first, if tis not rusty...then go deeper. Check the simple and easy stuff first.

On a "sealed" engine....aka STOCK...running up the timing will increase idle speed. And I tihnk the crank sensor runs off the dizzy, so i dont know if the whole one tooth thing would work...ive never tried it tho. So...go for it! Yes, More timing....that is the answer LOL

those vac numbers look the same as my RX did...so....must be up to the ECU then. Yes, try more timing....little bits at a time.

SUBARU engines LIVE in high RPMS. The EA82 especially was deisgned for high RPMs. I had a DL that I ran over 5500+ RPMs for 30 miles stright on the I-state...about 95-100 MPH with the 3AT....was very happy. On every other day of the week, id only ride it to 85-90...about 5k RPMs. Never had an issue.

SUBARU engines LIVE in high RPMS. The EA82 especially was deisgned for high RPMs. I had a DL that I ran over 5500+ RPMs for 30 miles stright on the I-state...about 95-100 MPH with the 3AT....was very happy. On every other day of the week, id only ride it to 85-90...about 5k RPMs. Never had an issue.

Pop the fuel leve sender out, and look inside the gas tank. I bet you $1,000,000 bucks it rusty in there. Ofcourse, you know that If im wrong, I dont have any $ anyways..... BUT....if i am right, you'll go..."who'd a thunk that..." Why me of course! took me a few months to chase that problem down on my turbo wagon when i first got it. Fresh fuel did not help either. Otherwise....id go thur the electrical system and re ground the engine grounding system...and add a few ground from the batt to engine to body to engine to body to batt to body to engine.....the list goes on.

How about that FMIC.....

Oh, on timing: My dizzy was...believe it or not...MAXED out...andit ran great with no detonation on 93 pump gas. i never used a timing light, so i dont know for sure what it was....i stopped using a timing light a long time ago on this engine...i just know where to set it somehow...

I had the SAME issue on my RX with the cams and a Gen 1 Mitsu BOV venting to the atmosphere.....i did not had quite the mods you had, but still...i know. My GL-10 has it venting now cuz i have not re plumbed it since the plumbed up intake pipe broke.... Anyhow, with the BOV on my 1986, the flapper door...it will idle surge...after running some time, say after running at speed and the computer seeming to "get used to" the BOV...it will settle into a somewhat stable idle. I used ot ahve it set at 1000...it usually settles around 850-900. However...I got really tired of the surging idle, cuz otherwise the car was great. and I wanted to disable the BOV at speed...say 3600 RPMs crusing on the I state....the manifold is at vac, while the turbo to Throttle body is under presure...that means the BOV is open, creaing a VERY rich condition, a high BOV whistle sound, and power loss, and NO MPGs. So my solution was 10 ft of vac line, and a plastic small engine fuel shut of valve from NAPA. I route two lines to the cock pit, and plumbed to valve in. So...from the manifold, to the cokcpit and valve...valve is either on or off....then the line goes to the BOV. Upon start up...off...smooth idle. Upon street driving or low speed stuff, valve on...highway crusing or long idling (autocross grid, traffic, pakring lot, warm up...etc...) valve off. Under boost it will leak on the highway...so i just elt 8 lbs of boost get into the line, by opeing the valve and it shuts and stay shut. The valve is not air tight completely, so if the BOV line is at atmos. pressure, or more...and the manifold is at vac for a long time....like 15 inches or more.....or is it less since its vac??....the pressure will very slowly bleed out...so i have to "reset" it every once in a while. But ive never had that issue at idle when the bov line was at amos/boost and the manifold line was at idle vac. Anyhow, on the RX....is woudl idle surge really bad...so i just maxed out the idle adjuster screw in the throttle body. idle didnt matter as long as it stayed running. i was just experimenting. The cams and BOV venting did make some drivabiliy issue...idle and some odd situations of severe bucking under certin loads....but all i cared for was under boost, and it was...well....GREAT!! This was a MAF'ed RX....an 89 to be exact... Long story short.....woops too late!!....do what I did with the BOV and see how that works. About the cams...are those the 677-260 ones, the mild cam? or the other profile thats way bigger, and pretty much a race only cam? I know there are two...and I got the 677-260, and mild one.

EJ22....latest generation SUBARU engine series...2.2 liters of displacement. SOHC ONLY in the USA....offered as a 1st gen, 135 hp or so, 2nd gen, 145 hp or so...and the Legacy turbo in 93-94....about 160 hp. Engine is INDESTRUCTABLE as long as you put oil in it and cool it good. The EJ22G, turbo version, is even more indestructable. The block is so tuff....i imagine 600 turbo ponys are the upper limit of the block. Medium cast and closed deck. the 22B STi got an EJ22G...a DOHC turbo version...380 HP!!!!! STOCK!!!

I say lets do it on my GL-10. Im really tired of chasing problems with the cable system....today it was all of a sudden, hard to go into any gear....adjust the cable, and 4 miles later, back to where it was. NEW cable, clutch, pres plate, throw beaing and crap. GRRRRrrrrrr...... So...how to go about the conversion....hm.....

Looks great...your temp guauge looks to be reading HIGH for me....

Better air flow. Yes, use a "side draft" carb....i think thats what its called.. OOOOOOOOoooooooooooo.....what a SMASHING idea for my RX project car and those spyders I have....

Looks liek 5 and 7....free bump.

No. i read that, and there was some funny items in there...Pleiades's stuff i can relate to since I know him personally...but once that little flame went going, it was not funny anymore. So far ive been lucky yo not get flammed as a n00b...or whatso....just flamed for my driving style on the dragon. Miles.....*shakes head* Words cannot be formed. :-p

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=573977 Just scroll down some...