AWDfreak

My air filter gets dirty fast, even though I don't live in a dusty area. I would say, I change mine about once every 1 to 2 years. I believe the interval Subaru sets is either 15,000 miles or 30,000 miles for the air filter.

Personally, I'm not a fan of mixing different viscosities. Do you have an owners manual? It should tell you about the motor oil. Try to get one if you don't have one in your glovebox already. You can also obtain a pdf copy of your owners manual on the web by creating a MySubaru account and download it. That's how I got my owners manual on my laptop Also, some info like this can be found on cars101.com .

Despite the fact that Wal-Mart does sell some low-quality products, the Super-Tech lineup of automotive lubricants isn't that bad according to a large majority of forum members at BITOG (bobistheoilguy). Nice to know it did well.

My 99 Legacy Outback wagon decided to give me rod knock for Christmas. I gave it 5 quarts of some Castrol GTX High Mileage 20W-50 with a trustworthy Purolator PL14460 oil filter as a half-assed present for Christmas. I still don't feel very happy nor safe with rod knock :-\

No love for the new RWD Subaru BRZ? http://uncrate.com/p/2011/11/subaru-brz-sti-xl.jpg http://www.speeddoctor.net/media/2011/11/Subaru-BRZ-Concept-STI.jpg

I am one of the very few that actually enjoys driving without power steering. I know there is no real benefit, but I just like putting more effort into driving. But hydraulic power steering feels way better than the numbed-down feel of many power electric steering. Not to hijack the thread, but what is necessary to remove hydraulic power steering???

To prevent the sticking issue, I just apply silicone lubricant just before the colder months to prevent the rubber to stick to the door. Much better than replacing door gaskets.

If it's the original engine, check the timing belt covers. If each end (left and right) looks like there are two circles, it will be the DOHC 2.5L. If each end looks like there is only one circle, you have the SOHC 2.2L engine. Other members can chime in and correct me if I made any mistakes.

I think I found my future Outback suspension mods

I feel that the KYB AGX might be an "upgrade" over the stock shocks. As for lowering springs, yeah, going back to stock is the best options. Whenever rally teams set up their rally cars for gravel and dirt, you will find that hardly any of them use a low ride-height. In fact, sometimes, the gravel setup has a higher ride-height than its production car counterparts. So yes, stock springs with KYB AGX shocks sounds like a good plan for improved off-pavement handling.

If Subaru does offer a gasoline-electric hybrid, I would not mind if they offered it with a manual transmission, and the AWD system would remain symmetrical. Other than that, I would much rather have the Subaru BOXER Diesel with the 6-speed manual

A '98 Outback, I presume, would have pretty much about the same intake as my '99 Outback. EJ25, right? The air filter is on the passenger side, right? What you're supposed to do is push the upper-half of the plastic intake towards the center. What you want to do is make the flexible part of the hose smaller, then pull up on it once you get enough clearance to move it up. Hope that helps.

Oh wow, electric power steering huh? That's why the 2010 Subaru Legacy 2.5GT I drove had such unusual-feeling steering.. Have you contacted your regional Subaru branch? Over here in the USA, we have Subaru of America.

Where did you see the 2011 STI get 500HP? Because besides an open exhaust, this STI's powertrain is stock. But yeah, great job by David Higgins making the 2011 STI sedan break the previous car record.

Wow I didn't know you made that channel (if you announced it in one of your videos, I apologize, my subscriptions are always swamped ) I'm about a third through the WRC (Colin McRae) video. It's completely captivating!!! Thanks for uploading!

This. The "boxer rumble" comes from unequal-length headers. Most newer-gen Subarus that are non-turbo come with equal-length headers instead, making them sound more like "normal" 4-cylinder engines. Unequal-length headers plus new exhaust will probably get the sound you want.

I thought it was well known that the Subaru "Cooling System Conditioner" was simply rebranded Holts Radweld...

As everyone has said, the EJ22 is the one to get if you want bulletproof reliability and minimal worries. The EJ25 will need more attention, thanks to all of them being interference and having timing belts. Here's the thing though, the EJ25 was made because the EJ22 is relatively "weak". So if you are one that prefers more "oomph", get an EJ25 unless you do not want to deal with the potential headaches an EJ25 will bring. Now there's the naturally-aspirated SOHC and naturally-aspirated DOHC EJ25s. The SOHC EJ25, in my experience: * sounds more anemic than the DOHC * produces MUCH BETTER low-end torque than DOHC, but feels like it runs out of breath once you try to rev it up high * it doesn't really like to be revved too high. * it's much easier to live with than the DOHC because of the low-end torque, and doesn't have the major head-gasket issues the DOHC EJ25 does The DOHC EJ25, in my experience: * sounds "sportier" (I LOVE the sound it makes! ) and more spirited than SOHC * low-end torque is OK (BAD compared to SOHC EJ25), but it really shines once you start to rev it high, especially near redline * it is a very rev-happy engine * because the EJ25D (what the naturally-aspirated DOHC EJ25 is called) has plagued faulty original head gaskets from the factory, it is a very risky choice to get a Subaru with an EJ25D due to the extremely high rate of head gasket failure. However, when one gets the updated Subaru OEM gaskets, your head gaskets will be fine

Oh my... I am sincerely sorry for your loss :-\ If I was in that situation, I would have chased down the ****er, called the police, and get that **** arrested. *sigh*... Besides the roof, everything else mechanically fine???

I really hate the idea of lowering an Outback... Well, the Outback uses pretty much the same chassis as the Legacy, so perhaps using the suspension from a Legacy GT of the same generation might do??? But honestly, maybe upgrading the shocks to KYB GR-2's might help, or maybe even upgrading to Bilstein shocks (pricey!).

Is the MAF next to the airbox where the air filter is??? Would removing that section with the MAF, and then spraying it into the remaining plastic intake more acceptable? In this figure, spraying directly into 12 while 8 is removed, is this fine? http://subarupartsdepartment.com/schematics/7/7521117.gif found on http://subarupartsdepartment.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=215189&chapter=&Sectionids=0,2453&groupid=2454&subgroupid=8433&componentid=2887&make=32&model=Legacy&year=1999&graphicID=7521117&callout=2&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0

For those of you that worship the black Subaru Tokyo Roki oil filters, they're back for the FB engine only in North America. It's part number 15208AA130. I sure hope they'll use it for the whole FB engine lineup, Tokyo Roki makes excellent oil filters! http://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2165966 It is sadly, not compatible with the EJ engines, but I have high hopes for the Subaru FB engine

I know some of these parts seem rather pointless, but the SPT heat shields (intake and turbo) might help in your quest for improved performance. And then there's the SPT high flow air intake, which can go along with the SPT air intake heat shield. http://www.subaru.com/subaru-performance-tuning/performance-parts.html If you have a manual Outback XT, you can also get an STI short-throw shifter. But from what I've heard, it's only a mild decrease in shift throw, so an aftermarket might be better for you. The Cobb AP (AccessPort) is one of the most popular engine mods out there. It'll void your warranty (if you still have one), but it's easy access to more power without actually touching anything but your OBD-II port. Sites like legacygt.com , Nasioc, and the sites at the top of USMB can further elaborate.

The majority of my extended family cannot operate a manual transmission,. My brother and I are only two of a very few handful that can and are willing to drive a manual transmission. My brother already drives a Forester, and hates driving my Outback. Sadly, that isn't an option at all because most of my family can only drive autotragics :-\ In addition, I cannot afford to fix it at the moment. I am nearly broke. It will be registered as non-operational. Speaking of which, just purchased some Sta-Bil and Sta-Bil Fogging Oil. The Fogging Oil states that it should be sprayed directly into the air intake (with air filter off) while engine is running, and then sprayed into spark plug holes. Is this OK, or should I spray only in the spark plug holes??? I just need to get the jack stands on Tuesday and a car cover sometime on the weekdays...

If it still has a boxer engine, Symmetrical AWD, and a manual shift-mode (or even better, a manual transmission ), then I'll be happy. Although I'm not particularly happy that Subaru is entering the market, perhaps they can make a more exciting gasoline-electric hybrid to the market than the other boring gasoline-electric hybrids. The only gasoline-electric hybrid right now that has any intent of driving fun is the Honda CR-Z (which has a manual tranny available ).