AWDfreak

Dude, your Outback looks SO bad-rump roast with the black Legacy GT wheels, and white-font tires! Maybe when I get new tires I'll try to imitate that look! Hope you get that oil leak fixed soon!

How should I fix the leak? I doubt anything as crude as duct tape would work. I did get some Valvoline ATF stop-leak stuff. Do you think that's worth trying? As for my Subaru, I haven't taken the time yet to jack it up to see exactly where the leak is from (you can call me lazy).

Yeah, the part number I listed above should work since it's a generic design (I think) for 2nd and 3rd gen Legacys. Parts guy probably didn't know that.

What Subaru is it? Because I was told that the All-Weather Floor Mats (P/N J5010FS320) are supposed to fit 2nd and 3rd generation Legacys.

BTW, my car is a 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback wagon Limited with a 5-speed manual and about 103,000 miles. Since my front anti-roll snapped, went to the local Pick-N-Pull for another front anti-roll bar. So as I drive out, I have the steering wheel in full-lock for at least 30 seconds. (Later on, I find out full-lock should only be done for 5 seconds or less. Well, that's what the owner's manual said) Yesterday out on the freeway, on one of the flyover ramps, I notice the steering felt slightly heavier than usual. So I pull over at the nearest exit. Exiting and then making a hairpin right, I realize the steering is extremely heavy at low speeds. At the fuel station I stop at, I notice smoke coming out from under the hood. I pop open the hood and notice something is burning up at the headers. I look in the power steering fluid levels and it's at bare minimum. At this point, I realize it is puking ATF (since the power steering as you guys know uses ATF) out all over the undercarriage (I just don't know exactly where from, maybe a leak in the lines?). Unusual thing is, there was still some ATF leftover in the power steering. It was below the min line, and thankfully, as long as I kept the revs over 2500 RPM to 3000 RPM, the steering was "acceptable". So I drive home going sort of slow (afraid of anything else to go wrong), hazards on and all. Thankfully, I have a manual transmission so I had the option of revving the engine up to a decent amount to get the power steering to barely work. As I was driving home, the power steering got slightly harder as the time progressed. I find it odd that there's still fluid left while the rest just came out. What could this possibly be? I'm a total noob to this stuff since this is my first car... EDIT: Just tried filling it up with more ATF and it leaks right out (fluid level rises as I fill, then recedes back to what it was)... I looked underneath and it looks like it might be leaking around the steering rack, what the hell?! I hope this is an easy fix, I'm tired of having to pay a mechanic (or the stealership) service my vehicle...

Wow, that explains A LOT! I'm assuming this is from http://techinfo.subaru.com/ right?

I feel incredibly STUPID! Cleaned the contacts on the bulb (AGAIN) and then bent the bulb housing (or whatever it's called) contacts longer to make sure it made full contact. Tried the headlights, worked. Tried the turn signals and hazards, worked. Yeah, simple as that, the contacts were probably too dirty and/or not touching very well.

1999 Subaru Legacy Outback Limited wagon I was sure the rear lamps are fine, but I'll check again. DOH! Dammit, I forgot the owners manual shows how to replace bulbs. I was using the Haynes Subaru Legacy service manual. It's not very helpful sometimes... Anyways, I'll consider all that you've said! EDIT: I just checked the rear lamps if they work, they all work. As for their condition, I'll get to that. First, I'll clean the contacts tomorrow, maybe that has an effect on it...

OK here's what happened today. I go to the second-closest Subaru dealership (the closest, Stevens Creek Subaru, is a proper stealership trying to force people to buy cars marked over MSRP) to buy a new right front turn signal lamp because I'm an OEM whore (despite being more expensive and with same parts available at auto stores), and that they'd probably have an easier time finding a bulb for me. Not what I thought, I was told to get the bulb myself. So I did. Not a problem, right? Wrong! Long story short, the signal lamp assembly was a PITA to take off, since the Haynes Service Manual simply said to "maneuver the assembly out". Easier said than done. After fiddling with it, gave it to the parts guy, got my overpriced amber bulb ($12?!), then put it back. I turn on the hazards, it doesn't work. I turn on the battery (with headlights on) and try the right-turn signal. It flashes fast. So I go back and clean the contacts on the bulb. Hazards and signals fine. BUT here's the problem: The signal lamps by default turn on partially when the headlights are on. Now the right front signal lamp does not turn on when the headlights are on, but do work when signaling or using hazards. Can anybody help? This isn't too big of an issue, but I would like all my lamps to be fully working! As for searching, the search function wasn't too helpful for me since it gave me a large proportion of unrelated threads.

OMFG.... How the hell do you have mud? There hasn't been rain here in forever, so I am extremely jealous. Do you have any off-road parks nearby? You should go to one to get some funny reactions from the truck crowd

I can confirm it really helped me. When my Outback randomly misfired on the freeway, the service technician who diagnosed it recommended I run Techron fuel system cleaner/additive. The gas gauge was slow as hell, and after running a full tank of it, I noticed the fuel gauge moved at a more accurate rate and moved faster upwards after fill-ups. Best of luck to that! I heard that installing a windshield is a PITA though.

In Honda nomenclature, it's spelled "VTEC", I don't understand why that's so hard to spell. :-\ In the world of Subaru, it's AVCS, or "Active Valve Control System". To be honest, I've never taken a close look of Subaru's variable valve timing, only at some Honda and Fiat designs. But I do know that a large majority of variable valve timing mechanisms work through oil pressure. Correct me if I'm wrong. Glad to know it worked out though.

I was under the impression it got totaled. Thank goodness it didn't. Well, unfortunately, I don't have a 1st gen Legacy, but best of luck turning it into a rally car!

At least you have both fog lights intact. My left-side fog light assembly is toast (broke it while off-roading, underestimated the approach angle). Still haven't gotten around to fix it Any planned mods for it???

Album from when I was at Oceano Dunes SVRA (Pismo Beach). Album link below picture. Album

I called Subaru of America Customer Service, and my 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback came with Havoline (Texaco?) 5W-30(?) motor oil from the factory. So if you want OEM quality, any of Chevron/Texaco's newest oils will do. Oil filter manufacturers that provided Subaru of America OEM filters include Toyo Roki (not a typo, the black oil filters which are somewhat highly sought after), Purolator (the white oil filters), and Honeywell/FRAM (the blue oil filters). Toyo Roki and Purolator make high quality stuff already. However, if you do buy Honeywell/FRAM, make sure it's at or higher quality than the "Tough Guard" line of FRAM products. If you don't buy OEM oil filters, most likely it won't have the "special" Subaru-spec bypass valve setting. I'm not so sure about the coolant issue. The post above mine is very helpful. I was always under the assumption NGK was the OEM manufacturer of both the spark plugs and spark plug wires.

No problem. Tell us how it is when you get your Yakima rack And for those doubters, proof that Subaru is partnered with Yakima: http://www.yakima.com/partners/

Might get it back soon, since I had an accident almost 4 weeks ago. Still in a shop getting suspension damage fixed \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ MY BEST PICTURE HERE \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/

The "Official" bike rack of Subaru has been Yakima for many years now. http://www.yakima.com/ Just click "Fit my car", and it'll list the products you need once you fill out the criteria

Another "fake" Outback! Looks nice. If your wife is going to learn on that, she's lucky because I find that the clutch on the EJ22 far easier to use than the clutch on an EJ25. I first drove manual on an EJ22 (specifically a Legacy Brighton wagon) and the clutch was very easy to modulate, very linear. As for the EJ25, that's a different can of worms. Switching from the EJ22 to an EJ25 was difficult. Anyways, any mods planned? Maybe some "real" Outback struts planned?

I can't find the original issue with the flood of responses, but this is the best I could find: http://www.subaru.com/drive/fall09_yt_shake.html

Lucky New Zealanders and Australians, I wish I could find a Legacy like that in the USA

The Heavy Duty FRAM filters are actually fine. It's "XTRA" guard filters you should avoid. Oh, and +1 for the Purolator PureOne, I know those are OEM filters for Mopars. However, as a Subaru enthusiast, I feel that it is best to purchase OEM Subaru oil filters, since the pressure valve is set specifically for Subaru engines.

Just curious, what does the hood scoop do? Bring air to the engine bay? Look cool but just add aerodynamic drag?

I personally use Meguiar's Headlight Restoration kit, it has everything you need (excluding a working drill). It works great, but weird bump/lumps on the headlights will render the drill attachment useless