LosDiosDeVerde86

gotcha. that's kinda like a "smack-me-in-the-head-for-being-stupid" kinda thing.

yeah, that's a steal. i dunno though. there's just some things that i won't buy off of ebay. like things that could be secretly broken. like waht if one of those struts was blown and the guy took the time to clean it up and make it look new? the whole ebay thing is risky buisness to me.

i ran our Genisis on my legacy today and it said that fuel bank 1 was open/closed and that fuel bank 2 was disabled. what am i not understanding here.. i don't like the word "disabled"

see, i hate it when this happens. someone sees the light and gets a subaru, but they get a forester. most likely the subaru with the worst track record. it just seems like fuji dropped the ball on the forester.

my main question here is why you did this.

i'm no expert but i'm pretty sure that'll get your struts and maybe A spring. i doubt thats enough to get struts and springs. you can get loaded from monroe now. spring and strut all in one. you're gonna have to call around and get prices but my 4 struts alone were about $300 or more with no srings and that was at cost through the goodyear i work for

yeah, you were right about the light. only flashes after last use. based on my tests i do indeed have 4wd. please go more in depth about this fluid pressure

whatever they had. happened to be Monroe sensatrack. fyi, i didn't do it to an imp. i put outback struts on my legacy, but same difference

grrrrr....i'm in class on a mac.....why .wmv why

i used monroe. alot of people like KYB. if you're strapped for cash, use your old springs and load them yourself with the new shocks. don't worry, the springs are the same size from forester to impreza. they MAY be stiffer on the forester though. but don't worry, they fit together like a well choreographed........thing..

d'ju kick it into 4-wheel?

i'll second the truth to the forester/impreza strut swap. there's a second opinion for ya.

ok, re-checked it out. apparently andyjo IS correct. the light flashes after the last time it's used. i guess the warning WAS that the light might flash after every start...wrong. the other warning i guess was that even if it DOES work, doing a donut to get it to hop may NOT work. we've proven that the switch works on my car, but yet it does NOT act like a pissed off ru.

yeah, i sat in one at the mall. the third seat is strictly there so subaru can say "7 passenger"

just sharing an experience and knowledge

as basic as basic can be. no light, one on, one off.

This message is really only for those who are going to install the 4WD switch, or who already have, do to the messages length and complexity. To begin, i followed Andyjo's instructions. (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48865&page=12&pp=10). Now, obviously he has a 2.2 impreza, i have a 2.2 legacy. everything still seemed to be the same. the brown wire was pin 11, however on out Fluke it read 14.5ohms, which we decided was close enough. we spliced in the switch and hooked it up. a few things we noticed that were different: with the switch in the "on" position, it's like the pin 11 wire was NEVER cut.. the circuit is connected and the switch may as well not be there. which means with the switch in the ON position the car is in AWD (not 4WD). the weird thing here is that if you start the car in the ON position the AT Trans Fluid Temp light flashes. this doesn't make any sense because the ON position puts the original wire back together. this means that in order to hhave the car in 4WD the switch up be in the OFF position. think about it.. turning off the switch, cuts the selonoid wire thus locking the duty c. with the 4WD turned ON (the switch was OFF) i went out into the parking lot and starting doing donuts. no bucking, no jumping, no pissed off subaru. i turned the switch to the ON position to double check and no bucking, no jumping, no pissed off subaru. so now everyone's thinking that i did it wrong. well you're wrong. here's how we double checked... we put my car about a foot up in the air (i did this all at work). we tested the FWD fuse: - in drive giving no gas - front tires spin - in drive giving it gas - front tires spin we tested the switch ON: - in drive giving no gas - front tires spin - in drive giving it gas -front tires spin then all 4 spin (meaning AWD) we tested the switch OFF: - in drive giving no gas - all 4 spin - in drive giving it gas - all 4 spin we tested the switch w/ FWD fuse - switch on - front tires spin - switch off while in drive - a thud and all 4 immediately start spining all this proves it. the switch needs to be in the OFF position for LOCKED 4WD. this means you must drive normally with the switch in the ON position which means whenever you start up your car the AT Trans Fluid Temp light will flash, letting you know that the switch is in the CORRECT position.

get a 99 legacy outback SUS. they're awsome

little hooks under the seats to hook child/baby seats to.

they got used and abused

that's a good idea. especially because we have the Pam baking spray with the butter....it'd make my car smell like wonderful delicious baked goods instead of cigarettes and gasolene.

same thing happened to me a couple days ago here in pittsburgh. the right rear opened and i had to go in and kick the door open. i ain't scarred

why not an EJ? smart a$$

i don't know about pulling the engine. i'd imagine the tranny would suffice. however, there's no difference between the outback and the legacy. what you need to look for is engine size. though i could be wrong, you'll need a 2.5 clutch for a 2.5 car.

i see you've been here a while...why not try PMing?