syphon

I dunno, that's all well and good, except this is a '98 in Seattle (which means the car hasn't a spot of rust on it). I got a bigger hammer, I'll try pounding it some more tomorrow. :-)

I've tried that. I've both hit it as hard as I could with a hammer (I threaded the nut on a little bit so it wouldnt mess up the threads) and I've leveraged a crow bar on it and stood on it... neither was sufficient to pop it free. Basically, I'm trying to see if anyone knows if there's something I'm overlooking which is causing it to not come free. Do you think I just need to hit it harder?

What's involved in that? I thought pulling the TRE from the knuckle was as simple as pulling off the castle nut and dropping the stud out of the hole in the knuckle. I don't want to pull the tie rod from the steering rack, which is what I think you're suggesting.

Howdy! So I'm working on replacing the wheel bearing on my '98 Legacy GT Wagon. Front Driver Side wheel bearing that is. Things are going along well I suppose. I've gotten everything removed and gotten the axle out. All that's left is to pop the Tie Rod End out of the steering knuckle and pop the ball joint free. On the tie rod end... i've pulled off the little castle nut from it, but for some reason, it still does not want to come free. I've even put a 3' crow bar on there and jumped on it... at this point I want to refrain from applying more force, as I'm starting to wonder if I'm doing something wrong. Here's a pic of the connection in question. Does anyone know why this doesn't seem to want to pop free? http://www.jayspang.com/pics/bearing.jpg

Wow, I never realized how good a friend i am

Holy ************! What happened man?

I tried to only find FWD automatics for him. We wouldn't want him to have too much fun driving, would we? In fact, I recommend an old 80's Diesel Mercedes. Not much chance of getting a speeding ticket in one of those!

In that case, here's a couple cars you should check out http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/114418300.html http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/113162638.html http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=191831160

Heh, at this rate, you're not going to want to sell it.

Oh no, that's awful Ed! That must have happened like, an hour or two after Sarah and I left your place! I'll keep an eye out for it. I'm all over the eastside, Kirkland/Redmond/Bellevue. EDIT: Wait, we came over saturday night. 1 hour, 2 hours, 25 hours, close enough!

Already bought it this morning

It's still running a wee bit rich, as I saw a couple puffs of black smoke out of his exhaust. However, I saw the smoke from his exhaust as he was pulling away from my legacy 2.5GT... pulling away hard Oh well, at least my car is prettier and smells better.

It's already begun "marking its territory" too.

They're not Subaru pics, but I took them at a Subaru meet at Evan's Creek Of course immediately followed by

As is my understanding, it's very similar to the Loyale (I've done the axle on my old GL, and now I have to replace the wheel bearing on my '98 Legacy). The axle nut has a little bit bent in... I was told to just loosen the nut like normal, it'll automatically push that tab out. If that doesnt work, I'm sure you can bend it out with a small screwdriver or something.

Yeah, that's what I'm trying to avoid. The thing that makes me think the motor is good is that sometimes the seatbelt works flawlessly, it's just the majority of the time, it doesnt even budge (the motor doesn't even try to move). Another odd thing it does is that sometimes it has a "delayed reaction". You'll open the door, and maybe 15-20 seconds later the seat-belt opens. It really makes me think there's some weird wiring issue.

Hey all, We're having a lot of troubles with the drivers side automatic seatbelt on our 1990 Legacy. When we bought the car, the seatbelt motor was unplugged, so we assumed it was broken. I grabbed a new one from pull-a-part and swapped it in there, but it didn't help it. Both motors WORK fine, when they decide to work. What happens, is that the seatbelt will always "close" (meaning, it never fails to move back and cover the person with the belt) but it only "opens" maybe 1/3 of the time. You open the door, and the seatbelt doesn't move. Sometimes, it "shudders" as it slowly moves forward. Also, the Seatbelt light on the dash constanly blinks. I thought at first it did this because the old motor was unplugged, but it still blinks. Another oddity I see, is that I found a couple cut wires up in the A-pillar. The seatbelt motor works fine (when it chooses to work) so I assumed they were unrelated, but now I'm not sure. Does anyone have any ideas what could be causing this problem?

Is it done yet?

Is it done yet?

Kirsten != Krissy Yeah, I drove the t-bird. Then a tree fell on it, so I bought a Supercoupe. Then, I bought a crappy old subaru to commute with, and have since purchased 2 more subarus. http://www.jayspang.com/pics/LegacyGT/Front2.jpg <-- my current car.

Hey man, we haven't spoken to her in forever (I don't know if you remember me, but this is Jay, I was one of Kirsten's friends too). She never calls us anymore

My '98 Legacy GT (it has the 2.5, but it's not turbo) gets 21.5mpg on my daily commute (which I'd say is about 25% freeway, 75% city driving)

Does anyone have a link with all the symptoms and info about the infamous "Piston Slap"? It's really frustrating to always see threads with people talking about it, but assuming that everyone else knows about it I own a '98 Legacy GT and am curious if my car is afflicted with this.

Not willing to do the headgaskets yourself? I wouldn't guess the head is cracked unless it ran overheated for a long time.

You know who this is... right?