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Everything posted by Goobysoobs
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It's not an age thing either it's from people always resting their hands on the shifter and the weight just ends up wearing it down, on my EA82 before I sold it was not sloppy at all. and it was an '88. however my '90 is somewhat sloppy so it's not necessarily an age thing just an abuse thing. So yeah I'd look it up on how to replace those I know ShawnW has done them before so you might ask him as well.
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OK thanks, that takes a lot of worry out for me. Also on these EJ22's is it easier to take the tranny out to change the clutch or the engine? I know with my EA82 they said it was easier to just pull the engine (I ended up pulling the tranny before realizing this) but it was much smaller and lighter just wondering on anyone's preference.
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It simply revs up and does not move, I was able to shift into other gears last time I tried (when it broke down) but haven't since... it didn't die out when I was at low speeds so it's like it's always depressed which on my old gl when it was like that (never tried shifting into higher gears) it was the clutch that went out. I was babying it for about 3 weeks or so as it would do it intermittently and was getting gradual but that was all in town driving and when I was going to pick 'em up I was kinda flooring it to be able to 60 mph but not going over 3500 rpm casue it's bad gas mileage hehe. ****EDIT***** So I went out there and started it up and tried the gears from a stand still up to fourth and it did not die out but I did not go any where. Also I noticed after I took off the e-brake I did not roll back.. now it's not a steep hill just about 1-1.5% gradient.
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So as posted here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=118201&page=2&highlight=goobysoobs my 90 Legacy has been having some issues where it felt like an automatic transmission when they start to slip, I did change the transmission oil to 80w-90 but that did not resolve the issue as I had hoped, and on Christmas Eve while traveling to pick up my nephews my clutch(hopefully) gave out. What happened was I was driving on a state hwy and i could not accelerate past 55 mph and when i slowed down and tried to get back up to 55 mph I had to get it to about 4k rpm. Then it just degraded from there to where I'd have to push it further (which i didn't) to accelerate until I could not go any more. So what I'm wondering is it just the clutch or is it the transmission as well? Thanks in advance
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Ah OK that's good to know and I'll check again with the daylight maybe dig my hand in there feeling about. As for driving issues the transmission seems like it's slipping(as if it was an automatic the rpms will continue to rise unless i back off the throttle) sometimes when I drive or it's just not getting into gear fast enough. I bought this car with some high miles so tomorrow with the daylight I'm going to change out the transmission fluid because as a lot of people have said most folks never change out manual transmission fluid and I'm hoping that will take care of that and probably the CEL which still flicks on and isn't on all the time now. So I guess wish me luck haha.
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So I could not find the other connector for the black one, I could only find the female, I even cut all the tapes (masking and electrical) that held it all bundled up but still could not find it. But the CEL is now on all the time so I just connected the Green ones and same thing just a steady flash like there is no problem, disconnected them and CEL is still on. I did warm the engine up first and even drove for 2 minutes getting it into 4th gear and still no codes. Although while it was in "on" position but not turned on the fans came on but there was sorta a clicking noise like something else was trying to turn on but wasn't. So I'm not sure if the self diagnoser thing is faulty or what also the body is an LS S/W. Plus it didn't really look like Legacy777's pictures down there.... no TSU bar thingy.
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Yeah My auto seat belts stopped working literally 5 min after i bought it a few months ago. lol Was planning on replacing it with the seat belts from an OBW, also I can prevent it from showing the door is open when I turn by holding the door and pulling it against me. So I'm hoping it's in the dash. as for the CEL it hasn't come on and stayed on for a few days, sometimes it will be on for like 5 sec sometimes it just does a quick flash while I'm driving.
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Also here's a topic similar to this http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=92374&highlight=modifying+legacy+outback (though it goes into lifting which you're not wanting to do but you can ignore that part ) @ 1982gl4 looks good, but I thought You couldn't use rims bigger than 15" on the older legacys because its too big for the braking system or something like that.
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So my CEL has sorta been coming on, when I drive it used to randomly come on for about 3 sec then turn off. What I mean by random is it would turn on when I was accelerating, braking, or just coasting. and then it turned on and stayed on, I changed the oil and it went off so i figured that was the issue, but It did the same random coming on then staying on again, so naturally I checked the oil and that was fine but it remained on then yesterday it was off when I drove it. Then today it was on when I was driving so I pulled the cover connected the self diagnostic wires together that I learned to do here : (though I couldn't figure which was the memory cable thought I did but it was the door chimer thingy) and It didn't give me a code just flashed a single long one over and over. (no short ones following it) so I just unconnected the self diagnostic wires and when I turned it on no CEL. Any idea on what's going on? Also another minor problem that's just annoying. My driver's door is way too sensitive like when I make a left turn it'll show on the dash that the driver's door is open when it's shut right. And I haven't been able to find the little door sensor to see if its gunky or even add something to make it a little longer so it'll show it's closed. Thanks all.
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yeah it doesn't have trailer brakes and the car would most likely have supplies in it (like pizzas, coolers with ice, hot dog buns etc.) and yeah I was thinking a Tribeca would probably be best. they would most likely want an automatic cause they are lazy like that, but do you just install an engine oil and transmission cooler?
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The notch on the cam pulleys is what we used and the arrow for the crankshaft sprocket is how we lined that up the belt did have marks on it and we followed those. The timing gun was just to adjust the timing once we got it started but it has yet to start. I replaced the spark plugs and was actually excited because I pulled one of the spark plugs (the one we did yesterday) and found the little black stopper thing that helps you pull out the spark plug so I replaced it and the spark plug wires and thought for sure it'd fire up, but unfortunately it did not. So I'm at a loss again, and looking at another post for the 2.5 issue that's similar to mine I saw they asked if they removed the cam pulley at any time, we did because we couldn't get the cover off without taking it off do to spinning bolts but I think that was 2.5 only because there was a key and a dowel that made sure we put it back on right. **EDIT*** Another thing that came to mind was the Camshaft pulley I had to replace it due to using a chain wrench on it and I got a new one from ShawnW the only thing though is the pattern on the inside looks different it almost looks like my old one had a clutch on it and this on doesn't. and we lined it up to the "0" like the Haynes manual said
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Yeah we plugged all that in but had a heck of a time getting one of the spark plugs back in so gonna try replacing them all (needed to anyway) and see what that does. now we haven't hooked up the Radiator fans yet as we still needed to use a timing gun *not sure if that affects anything doubt it though) other than that everything is connected.