skishop69

Scott (SJR) is a member here and the only one who makes those adapters. You will have to go through him or find a member here who will part with one.

On any other car, you'd pull the injectors and fuel rail. Leave them attached to the rail and set them on a piece of cardboard that has a piece of notebook paper on it. Key it up 3 times but don't start it. Come back later and check for spotting on the paper. The gas will cause the ink on the paper to run indicating leak. As many times as I've had my XT apart, I can't remember if the rails can be pulled... How do you figure it's burning excessive fuel? Depending on mileage, compression, plug type/gapping/condtion, cap/rotor/wires and timing set, it may be 'normal' for the car. How did you check for gas in the oil? All oil is going to have some kind of fuel smell. The best test is to take a few table spoons, put it in a shallow tin can or on a piece of metal and see if it burns when lit. If not, the amount of fuel is minimal at best and shouldn't be an issue.

Crank it over with the coil wire off the cap and see if you have spark from the coil. If you do, it's cap and rotor. If not, you have a problem with the disty pick up, or the ignitor. Take a test light and attach it to battery + then touch it to the wire from the disty to the coil while someone cranks it over. It should flash/pulse. Aslo check for play in the disty shaft. Shouldn't be any.

+1, but you have to change out/ modify the TPS because it's different.

Agreed again. Less pollutants out the pipe, but a much larger impact in production over gasoline, just like the Prius. Don't you love how 15% of the population (tree huggers & investors) can mandate law. Gotta love 'free' democracy.....

Ok, well I have bad news then..... According to my find, they are part of the turn signal switch assembly and not serviceable...

I agree! Much better for the older cars. Two things I should point out though... You have four more years before a federal mandate kicks in and ALL states will be required to use ethanol. Second, ethanol doesn't pollute more. It's actually less. It does suck that we are being forced to accept ethanol, but we can't ignore the fact we are slowly destroying this planet. I'm all for alternative fuels as long as they are viable and effective. Take the Prius. Great idea, absolutely horrible for the environment. The batteries for it have the lithium mined somewhere in Europe. It is then shipped to a processing plant in northern Canada where it is turned into batteries then shipped back to Japan to be installed in the vehicles which are then shipped here. Everything within a 20 mile radius of the plant in Canada has been declared a disaster area. The released pollutants and acid rain have killed almost everything. Energy and pollutants released in mining and then all the fuel oil shipping the lithium, then the batteries and then the cars. It is actually twice as bad for the environment as buying a Hummer and driving it including maintenance for 10 years. This is based on overall pollutants, cost and resources used/destroyed. Just something to think about the next time some 'Greenie' jumps on you for "polluting the world" with your old clunker. End of line........

Do you mean the flasher 'module' that makes the blinkers blink?

Sounds like you have the return line or feed line crossed with the canister/vapor line. The canister line stops at the top of the tank and does not have contact with the gas at all. If I remember correctly, only the feed line drops into the gas.

I would say you've got the fuel and vapor lines hook up wrong. You'll need someone who's done the swap or an FSM to get them right.

If it's 87, it won't have to have emissions next year. 25 years and older don't have to have them. Secondly, the readings they will take will be for that year carbed vehicle, not a mid 90's EJ which even high mileage runs cleaner. You should have no problems passing. IF it doesn't pass, the will do a visual inspection, find it is not stock, consider it to be 'tampered' and fail it until you return it to stock. Colorado was very rectal about this when I lived there. I personally wouldn't worry about it. You'll be fine unless you're only running on 3 cylinders or your CAT is missing.

Correct GD. The rims are 'hub centric' mounted. You cannot just knock out the old studs, slap the rim on and drill four new holes without some reference point. You can take it to a machine shop with a rim or dead hub from the donor car and tell them you want this pattern on this hub. The have the correct tools to center the pattern. If you don't, you'll have one hell of a vibration.

Blow off valve has nothing to do with intercooling. It is there to release pressure when you have a decent turbo that can spool up fast building good pressure. If you have the thing floored making a lot of boost then completely let off the gas, you now have all that pressure and volume with no where to go. Without the BOV, it will back up into the turbo causing damage to the turbine, compressor, shaft or bearings. Depending on the back pressure and amount of times you do this, it could be damaged quickly or over a period of time. What kind of intercooler are you installing? Top or front mount? Front mount is ill advised. Serious lag time and an actual loss of performance. This applies to the XT, not in general.

I can get remans for about $65-$75 plus there will be a core charge as you don't have one to return. I'll check with my parts guy and find out the cost per axle including the core.

The light for low fuel actually has nothing to do with the gauge. It is a separate thermistor in the fuel tank. The fuel keeps it coll until exposed. Once exposed, it heats up and the resistance changes (drops) allowing current to flow and the light comes on. I the light is not coming on, there's only a few things it can be. The thermistor is open. A quick ohms check on the correct wires at the tank will show this. There is no power to the thermistor. Voltage check on the correct wires. The light is burnt out. The circuit from the thermistor to the bulb is open. Ohms check again.

Define 'power problems'. you need to be more specific. Any odd noises? Bogging? Sputtering? If it is indeed atrans issue, you'll play hell trying to find a good RX FT4WD D/R trans. Trust me on that. Any EA82 trans will work depending on what you want and are willing to mod. A part time push button trans with no D/R will go in easy. If you have to have the D/R, you're going to have to cut holes for levers.

Yes. Higher ratio means the speedo will read faster than you are actually going. Lower ratio, reads slower than you are going.

+1 on the stainless. Love the stuff. Anti-seize is perfectly fine and preferred. Northwet is right about the teflon tape. It will actually cause the threads to bind and possibly lock up.

Yes, a kink in the fuel line will cause volume/supply issues. Also, make sure you replace the factory fuel filter. Fuel pumps most often die because the filter is plugging up and the pump is being overworked trying to push the fuel passed a plugged filter. Eventually just burns it up. No, two filters will not cause a problem unless one or both is plugged. You also need to check for codes. A bad temp sensor, TPS or MAF/MAP can create similar symptoms.

Those rads are good for plugging up too. If you pull the T-stat and it still gets hot and there's not a ton of pressure in the system, I'd look into flow.

If you want it done, I can do it. Rates $50/hour, parts at wholesale, all work warrantied, and I've been doing this for 20+ years. I'm down in Puyallup. If you're interested, let me know.

Got one offer passed along. Anyone else?

No, it does not need it. I should warn you against trying to remove it and replace it with something else as the dash/cluster trim is prone to breaking if even looked at the wrong way let alone removed. It was weak out of the box and more so 25 years later.....

A few things come to mind, but none that can be verified without teardown. Broken or improperly installed rings. A compression test may or may not show anything. Valve guides that were improperly knurled (sized) or improperly installed valve seals that have popped off. Improperly routed breather lines and as you mentioned, PCV. Are you sure it's oil spatter? Older Subies run pretty rich on cold start and produce a lot of moisture in the exhaust. The carbon comes out wit the water in a spatter pattern. As for the oil loss, you need to physically examine the underside of the engine. I've seen oil pumps that have no leaks at idle, but start dumping once they build some pressure.

This should probably be posted elsewhere, but I need some help for a friend down in your area. He's getting back on his feet and needs reliable transportation. He was oogling my Subie collection and being only 22, he hasn't really seen the old school stuff but likes it.l Ok, back on track. He needs to keep it around $500-$600 but could stretch to $800 if someone would work out payments. He's a good kid and just spent the weekend here splitting a cord and a half of wood as thanks for me helping. It doesn't have to be pretty, but it does need to be reliable and if there's anything it needs, then we'll address that. Thanks in advance for the help guys. Ski