skishop69

Agree on NON transmission applications (I was speaking trans only), however, Allison has approved it. Initially they did not as they are no longer GM owned and weren't privy to the 'inside' specs and weren't going to approve it til GM ponied up.

Again, Dex VI is backwards compatible with ALL systems that took any form of Dex. Honda fluid is great, but there can be compatibility issues. If you had the guts to put non spec fluid in your trans and it's worked great, I'd say no worries. Personally, I learned my lesson long ago with doing that.

Doubt seriously it's the hill holder. It is simply a one way valve to stop fluid from returning to the master cylinder when you release the pedal. I would suspect the master is bypassing internally. Older master cylinders can be prone to this when collapsing calipers or pressure bleeding the system. It causes the seal inside the bore to roll over on itself or split, or you end up with debris in the bore. Either way, new master cylinder.....

I'm sorry... lmao No, Steve is a fixture here. 20 years. Good guy...

It's not a claim, it's a fact and it is better that any prev Dex formula, therefore, the better choice. Not being pissy or knocking you're belief/feeling on the subject, but working with it every day and having tested it in many non GM applications over the past year and talking with the engineers, I have a little more in depth information. Oh, and the 'more heavily friction modified', not true either. Yes, I am at Jet Chev. Do I know you? lol Had a tech from here move to your area I believe...

DO NOT USE MERCON!!!! It is Ford only unless otherwise stated on the side of the bottle. If it's straight 'original' mercon, things will happen to your tranny that are no bueno. There is nothing wrong at all with Dex6. It is backwards compatible with all Dex systems and far better than anything else out there. (I happen to work for GM, so I know a bit about it. lol) If you are having tranny issues, replace one quart of Dex with TransX.

Year, make, model? First guess would be head lamps....

Contrary to belief, The synchro assembly is also responsible for holding the gear. When you shift, the synchro pushes against a bronze/brass cone shaped ring called a blocking ring. This ring is riding on the side of the gear you are shifting into. It slows it down allowing the chamfered teeth on the synchro sleeve to engage that gear without grinding. The synchro sleeve rides on the synchro hub which has 3 or 4 spring loaded detent pawls(feet) that are notched parallel to the inside of the ring that keep the synchro ring from sliding/jumping out of gear. If those go bad (springs, pawls or notching on the ring) then it pops out of gear. This may not be your situation, but a lot of people misunderstand the full function of the synchro.

I doubt it is the linkage. This is usually an indication of the sychro going out. Can you duplicate it anywhere else besides your driveway?

Subaru dealer. Some things are still in stock at the main warehouse back east. Other than that.... Start diggin' online. It is time consuming, but sometimes it pays off.

Not going to make any difference on power, but depending on your driving habits and engine condition, you MIGHT see a small gain in mpg. 1-2 mpg.

Can't remember if those have a trans cooler. If the do, check your tranny fluid to see if it's turned to strawberry milk. Usually it's the other way around and the trans fluid bleeds into the coolant, but I have seen it happen the other way.

Dampers are old school and not really necessary. The actual operation was all theory anyway. I have pulled them on over 100, yes 100, vehicles with no issues. As to your dillema... No sure which fitting you are talking about.

You can kind of check your pressure yourself. It's not exact, but you can hot wire the compressor and see if you get cols air. I believe it's the blue wire on the compressor. Apply 12v and it should kick on. if it doesn't, either the clutch is bad or the ground is. Once it kicks on, you should get cold air within a minute. If not, charge is low. There's also a fuse to the AC relay that may or may not be there. It's listed as optional. Also, if the high/low pressure switch on the accumulator line is bad, it won't kick on.

When it doubt.... Drive it like you stole it!!!

The alt or a bad ground. A bad ground can do the same thing. Start checking them out.

Yeah, saw that, but need the tonneau cover right now, though I need to find a topper for haulin' the dogs. Still need some help with the tonneau though....

I found a hard bed cover for the Baja we just bought the wife in Twin Falls and they have agreed to remove it from their Baja and ship it to Seattle after receipt of payment, but I would trust someone from here more than a 'total' stranger to pick it up and see that it is shipped. I will paypal you the money to pick up and ship, and I'm checking into the shipping now. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! Ski We thought the Baja would look good in the driveway next to the other three Brats.

Hazzarding a guess here. EGR solenoid. Does the miss stop when it's disconnected?

Yes, I am. My car has air ride, but I'm sure I have a set of regular struts from an XT I parted out. Will check after work today.

The compressor can be replace, but not repaired. The air struts themselves are not repairable.

You have air struts, correct? You said your compressor went bad.

Have to dig through the parts shed, but I believe all you need is the front and rear struts and I think I have them from the last XT I stripped. In case my bags blew, but if I have a spare set, no need.

And to help you offset the cost, I'll buy your air struts providing they will fit my XTGL10!

Sounds like a possible air pocket. Not common, but possible. Jack the front up as high as you can while it's running, the rad cap off and have some 50/50 coolant mix at the ready. This should purge the air and you top it off as it does.