skishop69

To answer the previously asked question... Bikes are 'geared down' at the rear wheel. Theres a small diff contained in the hub.

Yeah, I couldn't remember if it used a TXV or not. If it's overcharged and the TXV is freezing up, it will take a while to 'defrost' and let the compressor cycle again.

Believe it or not, it has affected your emissions and MPG. Depending on the condition of the motor, ignition, injectors, your driving style and road/traffic conditions, you may just have overlooked it. The reaction can be anywhere from negligeable to ugly.

Geez, you just get the response typed and the problems already solved. I retract my former response. I'm going to the corner to pout

I'm not sure about your sytem in particular, but almost every AC system has a low and high pressure switch. The low pressure switch tells it to shut down if the charge is low. If the switch is bad, no pumpy. The switch will be located on the larger diameter AC line near the accumulator (little coffee can looking thing). Unplug it and jump it with a paper clip. If the compressor stays on, replace switch. The high pressure switch shuts it down if the pressure is too high. This should be located on or very near the compressor on the smaller of the AC lines. Unpulg the switch and see what happens. If it stays on, replace switch. You may run into two switches in the vicinity of the compressor in which case one is high pressure and one is a cycling switch. This will actually cycle the compressor based on pressure alone. You can jump that with a paper clip as well and the compressor should stay running. Same follows, if it does, replace said switch. These are just quick tests you can perform without the manifold guages. As for the charging guage you used... throw it in the trash. It's barely useful for charging and certainly NOT useful for any kind of diagnosis. As Roundeye stated, you really should have a guage set to charge and diag.

Correct, they are needed (only one actually is needed) to 'smooth out' the the fuel flow. Any pressure spike will change the actual (correct) amount of fuel the ECM has computed to be delivered from the injector. i.e. more fuel. The older regulators can't react fast enough to remove the pressure spikes caused by electrical instabilities and poor (by todays standards) pump engineering. I think it was around '96 or so almost everyone figured out how to build better pumps and do away with it. I don't think I seen one on an engine in probably 8 years. The good quality aftermarket pumps that are available do not require the use of a damper providing you have a stable supply of current.

If you're speaking of the clutch bearing and not the main bearing in the front of the compressor, You need a special tool for removal and installation. You also need to know approximately how long it's been going bad. Is there any play in the shaft? I ask this because about 70% of the time, the compreesor fails within a year of the bearing replacement. If the compressor is old, using the puller and installer puts a great deal of pressure on the shaft bearing and seal. This accelerates failure. I know it's expensive, but my recommendation is replace the the pump if it is more than 7 or 8 years old.

It was actually AAA. I did get headrests and seatbelts. All functional, no rust and no cracks or fading. This Brat was in excellent condition before

A few weeks back I went to the JY to grab some Toy parts for a friend and low and behold, they had an early Gen II Brat (no T-tops). It had been whacked pretty hard on the LF. It still had all the int parts, good doors, drivetrain (auto), etc, etc... BUT, it still had the rear seats When I asked how much, they said they were going to sell the thing whole so no seats! I do a lot of business with these guys so I calmly explained that an auto Brat with no T-tops that needs a new front clip from the firewall forward was not going to sell. I told him to think about it and I'd pester him regularly. Long story short (too late), The price started out at $250 and after some intense bargaining, I got them down to $150. Still a little high, but for what I've seen them on evil bay plus shipping, good deal me thinks!

Correct NW. The alcohol contained in E85 will eat almost any rubber and plastic in the fuel system and carb. Its's also corrosive to some metals. Then you have the problem of it running leaner than gas along with it actually having significantly less BTU's. And finally, just like propane, you need a higher CR to really take advantage (?) of it. In short... DON'T DO IT!

Thanks GD, that's what I didn't know. While I'm extremely handy with a wrench and fabricating and know Chevy's, I'm still learning the intricacies of the Soob.

I have the link, thank you. It didn't mention years in specific and I wanted to be sure before I bought rotors and calipers. Thanks Junkie:headbang:

Ok, I've read the original thread and it's prety much a no brainer. I scored a set of backing plates and hubs from a '90 Loyale Turbo. The bolt pattern is the same and the backing plates are correct, BUT, what about the spline count on the hub? I am going to be ok or not?

You've got mail!

Yeah, he's a couple of miles or so from me. Great guy. I think he sais he's got something like 10 or 15,000 injectors in stock. He did several bulk buys from places going out of business. The parts room is wall to wall, floor to ceiling with racks of injectors. If you want to call, it's listed under Dr. Injector on 16th in Federal Way, Wa.

I don't know about shops in Olympia, but I can get a new flywheel at Olympic Brake in Tacoma for $75. Only a little more than getting one cut.

So this is where my federal tax money goes. I like it much better than a $500 hammer or a $300 toilet seat. Seriously though, that thing is sweet and only going to get better. An idea for AWD... I did see a mid-engine buggy once (belonged to a guy who owned a machine shop) that utilized a 90 deg 1:1 red. box on the right axleshaft output. The shortened the shaft and had the box mounted directly to the trans. It had a 4" ( I think) drop to it so the driveline to the front slipped right under the engine. A 'one of' that he built himself. Talk about wicked roosters in the sand:headbang:

I'm not familar with the system, but if it uses a 5v ref and the Sub ref is 12v it seems to me you would just have to figure out the proper resistor to install in line to achieve the proper volatge/current drop. This might however effect the 0 - 5v reading you are trying to get. And then the issue of, will the signal be clean enough. JMTC

If you're overheating ONLY at high speeds, I guarantee clogged rad. Been there done that. Had to drive from Ritzville to Spokane on the frontage road and install new rad in NAPA parking lot.

Ohh Bobbo... Are you trying to rig something up for the ER27T? I decided that the modification we are doing deserves it's own ID. I think its only appropriate for mechanical genius' such as ourselves. Ok, maybe genius is a little strong. Maybe... schizophrenic? Maybe... I'm a very good mechanic... definitely good mechanic...definitely... good with wrenches...yeah, wrenches. Remember, Dave said the motor would take 14psi with the stock ECU and injectors.

Good advice, except for the fuel pump. There's a reason there's a relay. When you rash and the engine shuts down, so does the fuel. If not and say your injured and can't get to the switch (whether toggle or ign), you get barbecued. I know this first hand as I was a medic for a number of years. Got to watch the coroner R&R a 'crispy critter" from a modified rig where the owner did that exact thing. Just a reality check. I hate to see bad things happen to good people.

E-glass is the cross woven fabric (more or less like burlap), very tough. You would use the polyester resin mixed with a very small amount of methyl ethyl ketone. This provides the catalyst for curing. Going this route you don't have to worry about time between 'drying'. Stay away from gel coat.It's just colored resin for the topcoat so the manufacturer can be lazy and not paint. And supposedly, it aids in the shell (product) releasing from the mold. It's a pain in the a** to match and repair if scratched, chipped or cracked. That part is just my buck fity:lol:

Check the ignition feed at the ECU itself and make sure it's getting 12v while cranking. If not there's your problem. Also check all your grounds. An ECU pinout would be a great help to you. If you don't have one, let me know and I'll pull one up, scan it and mail it.

For those of you looking to tackle this problem... Glass will be your easiest (once the molds are made) and cheapest option. When you start, be sure to use E-glass and NOT the shredded mat. The E-glass is 10x stronger and isn't so messy to cut and work with. Minimum two layers, go three and it will be tougher than you think.

No, I'm in the same boat. Had to finish a FIAT:banghead: , put the heads back on my buddy's 4Runner and paint my house ( and that was just LAST weekend) plus I just found out one of my friends (of 22years) has an innoperable brain tumor:dead: so I have to fly to Italy on the 9th. I'm guessing end of July before I look at it. I still have to yank the ER27 for my Brat. I'm wayyyyy behind. You can PM me though and I will update here.