rickyhils

Steptoe Yeah. Evidence that it was "worked on" , that can be cause for alarm. You hope that you don't find a "Heli-coil" or two from stripped threads. ha ha . And those EA82 can be "quiet as a mouse" at times for sure. And I don't do turbo, so that's not an issue for me, However I did do a compression check on my running Loyale [ w /320k miles]. Left side is 105 and 110. Right side is 90 and 115. That was a dry only test [ did not do oil leak down test] . Ten years ago I was a DIY idiot and replaced both heads [ used Fel-pro perma torque] thinking bad gasket. Turns out it that coolant loss was from the rubber "double window" gasket under the throttle body! (Doh!) My other EA82 [from salvage yard] is for "re-ring and go" only. That means no rod and main bearings. Maybe any metal debris in the oil pan might alter those plans. Advice from General Disorder will be FOLLOWED for sure . [ no honing] . I don't know think that the piston to rod has any bearings. I have NEVER done ANY rings on ANY car. Have watched many a Youtube on Subaru pistons. I do know to check RING GAP AT THE ENDS and get the proper gap orientation. And that outward expanding Circlips holding the piston to rod insert is CRITICAL, or I will soon hear and feel a hole getting punched through the block. Must be quite the lovely sound. that.

Len Dawg. Many have pointed to HLA hydraulic lifter that don't "pump up" all of the time. You will always hear it come and go at various times, and the experts say it is not necessarily any symptom of an underlying problem. My own experience has been this- When warmed up and idling and the "tick- tick - tick-" is steady, turn ignition off and then restart immediately. That ticking will be gone completely upon startup, as if it never was there. That will confirm that engine is OK, except for that HLA lifter design flaw. Years ago I had some HAL lifters out and cleaned them thoroughly and had them "pump up" just fine under test. After I put them back into the cam towers and ran the engine for a while, that same "tick" would still come back. I have EA82 with 323,000 miles in it. Some rough idling issues but oil pressure still there and still using10w-30 oil. Just keep a check on the oil level and the engine cooling system and you will have an engine that will run for a long time.

Steptoe . Have heard similar re: longevity. One repair guy in my Los Angeles area said he never knew of any EA82 that ever needed rings. For me it is now a bit of a game to keep my Loyale on the road for another 100k mi. Seriously. It's at 320k now. Even allowing for an engine swap maybe 21 years ago by previous owner. this engine has at least 250k on it. It IS a BEAST that will not die. It is a non-turbo, under powered, 1.8, SPFI, FWD car. But it drives nice. I'm not the off-road, 4WD, EJ engine swap, low-range trans, raised body type thrill seeker. I just feel this car is deserving of my best efforts, for more than one reason. And nowadays I'll need to keep track of things like 1.) Having 2 or 3 axles ready to swap in.[even if only A-1 Cardone stuff] 2.) Having some good T.B. kits w good water pumps. [Good ones are still available] 3.) Researching how to rebuild oil pump if need be some day. Stupid me as 10 years ago I swapped out Loyale oil pump for new Beck-Arnley pump, only to find out later that the pump was fine. The HLA TOD tick-of death syndrome had me bamboozled into how to fix it. So, in my DIY scuffle I successfully managed to toss a good oil pump into the dumpster, thinking it was a "bad oil pump". Oh well, now I know that the "Mickey-Mouse" eared rubber pump gasket is a handy thing to have in stock. end talk later any time . . . . Be well..

FerGloyale Once again, I salute you for that posting. I was THAT close to Sending my Loyale to the salvage yard.

FerGloyale . Are you the Gloyale that posted 10 years ago on how to fix the MT5 5spd front seal oil leak? I followed up on that - 90k miles ago in 2009. That saved my car from the scrap heap. Thanks again

GeneralDisorder Your advise is well taken. Will NOT hone cyl walls . I just read your 2017 post on case realignment [96 Frankenmotor] Even if crank showed to be OK and new bearings were put in then likely misalignment of case halves would be a whole new issue with bad mechanical results not too far ahead. And any thrust bearing would also need attention. In this case staying with a "known" is better than risking total engine failure. Thanks

ferp420 Makes sense- if cylinders still round then no reason to look at crank. Or at least much less reason to do so. You reminded me when you said "tend to oval out". The spring action of the rings pushes away from the gap. I have to visualize that I have no piston/crank work experience, only axle, cyl heads, timing belt stuff on 1991 Loyale. Ten years ago I followed the Gloyale post on MT5 front trans oil seal leak. FWD. 5 SPD . I put in two new main shaft bearings and the seal. Resurfaced the flywheel and new clutch parts. 90k miles since then and all still good. I was forced to tear into the trans in 2009 totally inexperienced, as my car was junk yard bound with that bad trans oil leak. Will say that I had my brain with me the whole time. ha ha . When came time to match up the two trans housing halves and bolt it all back together, I patted myself on the back for NOT FORGETTING TO PUT THE SEALANT ON!. I think I used some RTV red stuff. Don't ever get 2HI24BY. Thanks again for the reply.,

el_freddo -Thanks for the friendly support. And may you never have that "extra bolt" lying about after you've painstakingly and meticulously reassembled everything!

I have a salvaged EA82 non turbo long block from another Loyale. Will be pulling out the crank shaft. If no scoring on the crank journals [no spun bearings] and it scopes out OK, am thinking of doing a "Hail Mary" pass and just put new matching size main bearings in. Will do same assessment on connector rods for bearing replacement . If cylinder walls actually have crosshatch marks remaining- is there still a chance in Heaven that all new rings would have the engine run ok? At least I know enough from reading here that NO WAY will I be re-boring an old EA82. I have a known good oil pump [Beck Arnley] to use in it I have the time and interest to tackle such an "iffy" project. Thanks for ANY and ALL feedback on likely hood of actually getting it running again, to whatever degree and for however long it stays running reliably.

Steptoe. My situation is with an MT5. It is FWD so no dual-range. And that will be only to check and replace main shaft bearings and front oil seal. As Gloyale posted 10 years back. I did that to my existing 1991 Loyale in 2009. I hope to locate the same bearings and front seal for my salvage yard MT5. That is my plan to have it ready to go. Also i need to verify syncros and all gears in the salvage yard MT5. And I'll chase all the bolt holes first to verify good re-assembly. Thanks, Mate

MUCH Thanks to "Gloyale". I followed this thread back in 2008-2009. I was successful in doing it myself. I removed trans from underneath the totally jacked up car. [Yeah, but what did I know at the time!] MY local Subaru certified guy sourced the main shaft bearing part #s and he said "Don't be stupid. Replace both front and rear main shaft bearings while you are there." He said the syncros looked OK. And he told me to throw out my aftermarket seal and get Subaru seal. I later saw why, as Subaru seal had two spring surrounds in the rubber as opposed to only one in the aftermarket seal. While at my local Subaru shop in North Hollywood [guy named Avo] his assistant looked at the main shaft I brought in he looked astounded as he asked me "You took that out yourself?!?" I said - "yes". It was either fix the gear oil leak myself or junk the car. I've since learned to do the heads [used Fel-pro perma torque] and timing belts and axles, Have put 90k miles on it with no problems past Ten years, Ten years back it also had overheated and then cracked block due to coolant added too fast. CRC block sealer did the fix. [90k miles later 10 yrs later still purrs like a kitten at 320k mi] Have another salvaged EA82 long block and salvaged MT5 FWD trans. Will be pulling out the crank on that EA82 in a few months. If no scoring on and it scopes out OK, will strongly consider doing a "Hail Mary" pass and just put new main bearings in and button it up. Same check on connector rods. [Feel free to do a light palm to forehead smack. ha ha.] Now, if cylinder walls actually have crosshatch marks remaining- is there still a chance in Heaven that new rings would work at least for a good while? I learned some things on these USMB forums, and that includes being savvy enough to NOT bother to re-bore ANYTHING on an EA82 block. Notwithstanding, I feel that I can maybe get another 100k out of that sort -of rebuilt EA82.

GD. Your reply is most wise. Thanks.

I JUST FOUND THE INFO AT THE ALLDATA SITE . NO NEED TO RESPOND TO THIS TOPIC. I have 1991 Loyale. Wagon 5spd FWD SPFI. Non-turbo. Am looking to test electrical reading from oil send switch at oil pump. Wire contact is at the larger switch that sticks out from the pump via a short tube. All-Data doesn't say what the ohm range should be coming out of that wire. Also there is an unused electrical tab right after where the oil filter attaches. Not sure what that might have been for. Am also looking for the expected voltage range going into the dash board oil pres gauge. I have learned enough here to not go off expecting to accomplish miracles with keeping this engine alive a whole lot longer. But I can still use 10w-30 in it so it has some time left on it. Has more than 275k mi on this engine. Runs ok. Has normal "TOD" tick-tick that comes and goes. Maybe it will go to 300k- 350k- or more before low oil pressure/bad rings get the best of it. THANKS You Guys for any info on those gauge readings.

Thanks you guys. Best way for me was to slice through strut bracket and bend the new "tabs" in opposite directions till brake line can pass through. And no critical loss of structural integrity. No need to disconnect brake line. All you guys are the best. thanks

1991 Loyale. The push button cassette on the dashboard is not powering up blower fan or engaging a/c compressor clutch. Two 15 amp fuses are good. Fusible links under the hood are good. Fan speed switch set on high shows about 1 ohm reading from blk to blu wires, so fan speed switch is not the problem. I really want to avoid opening a can of worms by getting into the cassette push button electric contacts assembly to look at any problems in there, unless I am forced to do that. The symptoms were intermittent then nothing. Is there a relay switch for the air controls? Thanks

1991 Loyale FWD wagon 5 spd. Just put on 4 new KYB struts. Ride and cornering now back to Subaru GOOD. Only when I turn slowly into a driveway ( with a normal slight upward grade from street to sidewalk level) is there a very light and polite "tap- clunk" from the right side front. Does not happen when coming to a dip that is straight across the road. Can only "guess" that worn sway bar bushing is allowing metal to metal contact. *** Also- at 320k miles, is a working clutch cable better to get a preventative replacement? or just inspect it and re-lube it? Thanks

1991 Loyale FWD. Inner front wheel hub seal needs replacing. With old seals [inner/outer] pulled out, can I push fresh grease through the bearings while they are still in the hub? I can scoop out the old grease as I go. And is it better to see if those seals are available from Subaru? Bearings are still good. I don't do off road driving. Thanks

OK. Easy enough to lift off the brake lines. Am also looking at getting a new clutch cable [ before mine breaks- 330k miles] . Will try a local Subaru dealer for any stock still available. And, can a used FWD axle [ off the car- but still in good condition with 8 years / 80k miles on it] simply have NEW BOOTS installed? Thinking preventative for known good c/v axle. Or should I skip that and just look for reliable re-man axles? I have two Cardone axles on there now for several years and boots still look ok. Maybe will investigate some silicone coating to keep them from cracking. Thanks.

1991 Loyale wagon. Am replacing the front strut shocks. Look like brake lines need to be removed from the caliper in order to remove strut assembly. Just want to check before I make tons more work for myself. Thanks

Yes. It was the rotor set screw. I'll put blue Loctite on it. That one little screw brought the whole car to be dead in the water. Thanks all for your help and interest. Car has 320k miles. Will drive it to 400k and beyond. Have spare salvage yard complete EA82. Piston walls look ok. Will check oil pump wear (and change gaskets) and have valves cleaned. Will check heads with flat edge. Will put Felpro gaskets on that don't need the re-torque routine. Have a reman cv-axle. Will look for another re-man axle to have in stock. Although the Auto Zone axle has worked for 90k miles now. EA82 is . . . yes, under powered a bit. But I love this car. 5 speed FWD.

DaveT - Have heard that Subaru would out source some of the design particulars. So, not always the same as might be expected, and a bit quirky at times. Mine is 1991 SPFI naturally aspirated.

GeneralDisorder- YOU ARE the MAN! Maybe some blue thread lock this time?

When I saw your reply just now- this big grin come over my face and began to chuckle. Because I know that you just might be 98% correct on that!

Two hours ago my1991 Loyale just stopped running. Attempt to restart acted like timing was way off and there was backfire. As timing belts were visible (I've been leaving t.b. covers off) I rotated the crank bolt and checked flywheel marks with cam sprockets. All good there, showing that timing belts did not jump. Car running fine, no warning, then stall. Recent history: I got some gas just 5 minutes before (Was on empty) . Nobody tampered with car. And - I pulled ignition coil wire and car cranked over normally. Check ECM under dash. No codes. Will check distributor cap and rotor in the morning. Thanks