bstone

Check fuel pressure in addition to making sure your NGK plugs are the correct ones. Coil might also be suspect.

Are you sure alignment is good? I can't tell and I work on cars every day.

What kind of plugs and wires? Have you replaced the PCV valve recently? Checked the air pressure in the tires? Gotten an alignment? Unloaded all the heavy stuff in the trunk?

Remember, only use Subaru O2 sensors. The aftermarkets just suck. Cool?

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_3020-OBD-II-CAN-Scan-Tool-Innova_10181921-P_N3389_T|GRP2018_____ google for an online coupon code. cheaper than paying the dealer.

So to go Advance and buy one. Buy it online and use a coupon code.

Gosh I hope you don't go to the dealer to get a code read. That'll cost for $100 at least. Go to Auto Zone or Advance Auto Parts. They read codes for free. Your car is a 97, so it's OBD-II compliant.

Sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Has the fuel pump ever been replaced?

Did these all come up at the same time? If so then you almost certainly have an electrical problem. It is possible that they are all due to the knock sensor, however.

Found the fuse, which lights up on both poles with my fuse tester. Is the relay directly connected to the switch? I'll try to dig around and see what I can see.

I've definitely been having problems with the hatch. Both of the struts have failed. Maybe I got other stuff going on.

A few weeks ago I noticed the rear defroster light no longer comes on when the switch is pressed. It also appears that the defroster isn't working. I checked the fuse under the steering column and it lights up on both poles. I am open to suggestions of what to check next. 97 OBW AT with an ej22 transplanted into it No codes

This sort of thing happens. Just gotta bang it out and put in a new stub. It's a lot of fun.

Likely the HG.

Just replace it and you'll be good. I've done it and it's not too bad. I ended up removing the throttle body, but you might have smaller hands.

I put it in the crankcase 50 miles before I do an oil change.

Sadly no. You have to remove the extension housing in order to gain access to the Duty C Solenoid. Lack of power to the rear wheels can be anything from a bad TCU or worn out clutch pack. If you unplug the TCU then the rear wheels should spin. If they don't then it's likely an internal issue.

ouch

Owners, not owner's. /petpeeve

lol sorry http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/legacy-hvac-bulb-replacement-91.html?t=91

This might be the solution: http://www.justanswer.com/car/157fy-fix-p1143-fault-code-1997-subaru-legacy-outback.html

Aftermarket (non-OE) t-stats cause overheating in 100% of the cases. You must absolutely get an OE t-stat, burp the system, and try again.

What sort of t-stat did you put in? Is it an actual Subaru t-stat or an aftermarket part?

http://developer.berlios.de/projects/freessm/

It's HIGHLY likely that the tranny shop doesn't have the right machinery to pull Subaru transmission codes. I was getting an AT Oil Temp light flashing 16 times on startup, so I brought it to the local independent tranny shop. They weren't able to pull any codes from it, but I did the "handshake method" and got a code for the Duty C Solenoid. You can build your own scanner and use a laptop along with the OBD-II connector and pull the code. Google for FreeSSM and you can have your own top-notch Subaru code scanner.