bstone

I'd go with a new HG. Not worth the risk.

Headgaskets, not headgasket's. An apostrophe doesn't pluralize a word.

This is a video of my issue. It's very annoying. Any help or assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Fram has been the bottom of the bucket filter for as long as I can remember. Knowing that the Subaru OE filter is a Fram product is really disappointing.

Wish there was a way to keep the text from running off the screen. Can that be fixed?

You can do extension housing with trans still in car. Some of the bolts are a bit tough to get to. I can't say if it's the ext housing that is leaking but just confirming you don't need to drop the entire trans.

Sounds like a non-OE thermostat was used or there is air in the system which needs to be burped out. The EJ25 is a difficult engine to burp so you may want to read around for some hints. I generally squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses in attempt to displace air trapped in the lower parts of the system, adding coolant as I go along.

I do have to admit it may be a matter of being sabotaged. If you have comprehensive coverage on the vehicle then I would file a police report and make an insurance claim. Something like this doesn't happen by accident (most of the time).

You can cut a hole in the floorboard and just use your feet to stop, like they did in the Flintstones. No more rotor warpage!

Is it as simple as identifying the ground (negative) wire and splicing it onto a chassis ground?

I'll start by changing the bulbs, then playing with the grounds, then finally playing with the stalk. That seems to be the most logical and least inexpensive way to approach the issue.

Stalk?

I'll swap bulbs with the other side in the morning and see if that solves it. Would be a lot nicer than tracking down a short.

97 OBW AT with a transplanted 2.2 New problem. The left turn signal does not work when the headlights are on but does work when the headlights are off. The left arrow is slightly lit up (a light green) when the headlights are on. The right arrow works just fine. Really at a loss to explain this one. SOS. Thanks.

Last time I did a lower ball join on a Subby (in Chicago, super rustbelt) the bolt holding the joint on snapped off and we had to drill it out. Only took 5 hours.

If the CEL comes back on then you might end up getting really lousy gas mileage. O2 sensors sense the amount of oxygen after combustion and the computer adjusts the fuel-air mixture accordingly. If the O2 sensors are bad and a CEL is set then the car goes into default mode, which means super bad MPG. Worth it to fix it.

Pretty much the same thing happened to me. Here's a very recent thread of my damage and repair experience. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=135227

They can go bad but just do so rarely. The contacts are likely the root cause.

Starter is probably going.

Condenser is leaking! Thoughts?

Thanks much! The new headlights are a thousands times clearer than the old ones, but I'll still give them a shine. The metal plates are gone but I'll have a look to see if I can locate replacements. Thanks for the accolades. The insurance check came and I'm pretty happy with the end-result.

Grey-pewter. How much you thinking for it? I have a credit at a local junkyard so I might go to them first just to offload this credit, but please send me your offer.

Video after repairs. It's still loading so give it an hour or so:

I took a video before I did the repairs, . I'll take a video after the repairs in the morning and upload it. As far as prices these folks had the best prices. Another local yard wanted $150 for each headlight, while F&S wanted $75. Can't complain about that. Prices around here are generally higher.

Update: Insurance company is sending a check for $2300, which includes the collision deductible (300) and purchasing the car back (200). I picked up the Suby and got AAA to tow me to F&S Yard this afternoon. While there I got two headlights for $75 each, a hood for $100, and radiator with fans for $150. The owner, Bob, stayed with me until 9pm as I helped him use chains and clamps to pull the various malformations on the radiator support back into shape. He even did a bit of welding to get broken bolts out of their threads and made sure everything was tightened down. He charged $180 for this and it was worth every penny. All in all the car is now working, drivable, and fine. I paid $425 for parts and $180 for labor. Not bad, eh?