Snowman

I've also been contemplating a snorkel, but I've got a Weber carb now. I think you the SPFI intake might fit onto your carb with a bit of adaptation. As for the snorkel itself, I haven't heard of anybody adapting a kit from another make. I know people have made snorkels out of PVC pipe that looked pretty good, and I think that's what I'm going to do. With the Weber carb, there aren't nearly as many vacuum lines or air hoses underhood. The only ones that I still have that need filtered air are the PCV system and the ASV system, which I ran to little K&N filters up behind the passenger side strut tower. You could probably do something similar.

hmmm, I like that rubber mat idea. It could probably be screwed down in place of carpet pretty easily. That would prevent sliding around. Still not sure what to do with the plastic in the back, since it's already pretty scratched up and will get a lot worse. Maybe I'll rip out the plastic and make wood side panels with storage pockets.

Hey everbody, I'm looking for some input on how to further "utilitarianize" the interior of Roxanne, my 86 ea82 wagon. So far, I've Herculinered the floor in the passenger areas (with much better luck than that guy in the thread brought up in the offtopic forum:D ). I'm probably going to make floormats out of some sort of dark outdoor carpet pretty soon to help quiet down the road noise. Next, I'm gonna move to the back cargo area, which is where I'm not sure what to do yet. The carpet will be the first thing to go. I know it will get full of mud, oil, etc. in short order. I've thought that maybe I could just Herculiner everything back there too, well at least everywhere that there is currently carpet. The other idea I've come up with is to put marine plywood down in place of the carpet. I like the herculer that I've done so far, but it's kinda expensive. I'm pretty good at basic woodworking, and the plywood option wouldn't cost nearly as much. The only issue there is that stuff might slide around a lot, but I could cut some cross-hatch grooves into the wood to prevent that. If I went with the wood option, I could also build-in some storage areas for the gear that I always carry with me, which would drastically reduce the clutter that's there now. What are your thoughts on this? Any other ideas? I just want to get rid of carpet forever in this car so I don't have to worry about stains, dampness, or nasty smells when offroading or hauling stuff. I also don't want to spend a fortune on this project either. Thanks.

Lookin' good there. How did you go about cleaning your block? Yours looks absolutely spotless, but there were a few places on mine that I couldn't get to in order to clean.

Matt, why don't you convert to a Weber but save all the Hitachi crap to put back on to get it I.M.ed? It would be a snap if you had a spare intake manifold, then you could just swap complete intake setups in a matter of minutes.

1 Current Weber 32/36 DGEV 2 Works great offroad. The only difficulties I experienced were when I was still working the bugs out. 1 Stock Hitachi carb 2 Compared to the Weber, it didn't have as much power at any RPM. Never gave me any trouble though.

Most of the time, I don't miss the carpet/insulation in my soob, but during the winter it gets freakin' cold now!

Yeah, I always thought we should just use V to represent voltage. Both of those equations are the same, regardless of what letters are used to represent the values or what permutation of the equation is used. i.e.: V=IR, R=V/I, I=V/R That equation need not be changed for parallel vs. series circuits though. Only the formulae used to add up resistances must change. Series circuits: R1+R2+R3+.... = RT Parallel circuits: R1 x R2 ---------------- = RT R1 + R2

Hmmm, classes start on the 30th for me.... Maybe I could skip the rallycross portion, leaving sunday morning. That could get me back here by tuesday night late.

CCR definitely is the way to go for competitive pricing. AAA-1 said a shortblock would be around $1400 from them. A complete engine from CCR is not much more than that.

E= voltage (electromotive force) I= amperage R= resistance I'm referring to Ohm's law. There are different arrangements, I=E/R is just the one I use the most in class, so that's what came to mind first.

Bushbasher, I would tend to disagree there (well, you already knew that;) ). Here's why though: Say you've got a fan wired with the switch on the ground side. If you were to take your voltmeter and place one lead on the positive side of the motor and the other to chassis ground, it would read battery voltage. Take that same fan and put the switch before it. If you do the same thing with your voltmeter, it will read nothing. There does not have to be current flow for there to be voltage present.

Are you talking about I=E/R?

"we all know austin, we all know.... yep you might want to spray down with fresh water to get all that salt off your undcarriage." -Rooinater Maybe spray it down with oil while you're at it! What's this about soobs not rusting in the NW?

Dude, that is a seriously sweet brat you've got there. What did the new exhaust do for power?

(long stream of profanity here), I'm almost positive that fall semester will already be started. Looks like I'll be hoping for next year:rolleyes: . And a big:( from Roxanne.

I haven't done any scientific tests to prove this, but my soob sure seems a lot happier running between 3000 and 3500 than between 2000 and 2500. Below about 2800 rpm, it starts to fall off the torque curve and has to struggle, which is bad for fuel economy.

Rooinator: Increasing the size of the wires over the bare minimum needed to pass the current will not increase the amperage (this only increases the maximum POTENTIAL current flow). The wires themselves are never supposed to have any resistance. If you were to use wires small enough to create enough resistance to lower the current flow, not only would the fan slow down because of the reduced current, but the wires would heat up and probably melt their casings. Thanks for the help with the indicator though. I'll set it up like that once I wire in a relay (currently, I have the thermoswitch and the high-amp toggle switch separate, so i couldn't do it now). I can't believe I didn't think of that:rolleyes: .

Rooinater, I don't doubt your knowledge of electrical and mechanical stuff. Seeing pics of your ride and hearing your stories makes it clear you know your stuff. I was just posting on behalf of what my prof has been telling us in Auto Electrical I and II (currently in III) to try to clarify things a bit. I would agree that it probably doesn't matter to those fan motors, since they are quite beefy electrically, but I usually like to err on the side of reducing as much stress as possible on components. And yes, closing a switch on the power side does send a spike, however small, since the voltage was not previously present at the motor. Closing a switch on the ground side results in no spike since the voltage is already present at the motor. It is my assumption that that is why the factory wiring is set up that way. I also don't see how putting the relays on the ground side complicates the wiring at all. They are merely being connected in a different location.

Unless I misunderstood your diagram, which is possible because I'm not perfect at reading diagrams yet.... Your relays are ground side switched, but they control the power to the fans since they are on the "upstream" side of the motors. Hence, not ground side switching.

I would recommend sticking with ground-side switching, since that is how the stock wiring is set up. This prevents voltage spikes and such, and is easier on the motors.

Crikey! What are the measurements on those? 13", 14"? Width?

Oh and if you re-seal the cam cases, be sure to use Permatex anaerobic sealant and not just plain old RTV silicone. I've heard good things about both the grey and red Permatex, so I don't know which one of those to use, but make sure you use one of those. If you can find ThreeBond 1215, that's what is recommended by the FSM, but it's really hard to come by.

No That may change when I get bigger tires, but right now I love the dramatically increased road feel that comes with manual steering.

The places that tend to leak a lot and get oil on the exhaust as you describe are the cam cases, valve covers, and cam seals. If you've got some time and would like to get a lot better aquanted with your sooby, it's really not that difficult, but rather time consuming, to do all of these, which is probably the best solution. Of course, this entails removing and replacing the timing belts, and if your lifters make any noise, this is the time to clean them.