Snowman

The oil is caused by a bad PCV valve. Replace it and clean out the lines and the little PCV filter inside the aircleaner housing, and it will be gone. As to the white plasitic thingy, I think that's the charcoal canister purge.

Actually, when removing the mechanical fan, if it's attached to the water pump, you can just turn the studs around in the mounting flange and bolt the pulley right back on.

So here's another question, just what fuel pressure does the weber carburetor want? I've heard 2psi, 2.5-3 psi, 3-4 psi, and 4 psi. I'm going to buy a fuel pump asap, so I need to know what pressure to get, or if I need to get a regulator as well. Yet another question. The hitachi carb and stock fuel pump utilizes a return line. With the weber carb and aftermarket pump, does the return line need to be used, or should it just run straight into the carb? My weber came with a fuel line fitting that just goes straight in. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

WTF???????? :confused:

Wow, cutting your fuel economy in half! I would wonder if something else hasn't changed. I remember Subarujunkie mentioning some time ago that he got 26 mpg on the highway with his lifted wagon with hitachi.

Best I've heard of was my parents' carbed 87 4wd 5 speed wagon getting over 40 mpg on the highway when it was pretty young. Worst I've experienced was about 200 miles to a tank (13.3mpg), which has happened several times when my 86 carbed 4wd 5 speed wagon has been severely ill in some form. Most of the time, she gets mid-twenties on the highway. The most satisfying fuel economy was on a run we made last summer in my car, in which we ran at 85-90 mph to the next "major city" to go see a movie. The trip that normally takes five hours took three hours and twenty minutes. We later figured out that we were getting around 18 mpg, which normally isn't all that impressive but is quite awesome considering that's basically the top speed of the car.

I've heard of stranger things. If that is the original clutch, it's probably about time for a replacement. I would guess that you're just really easy on clutches.

Don't worry, any help is great! I am running the stock fuel return line, as I've been told that our stock pumps don't like to be "dead-headed", or run without a return line. When I've got some time next week, I'm going to pull the line and run it into a jar to see what kind of volume I'm getting, as well as pulling the top off the carb to check the float travel just to be sure. I might just break down and buy a fuel pressure gauge too. Yeah, I don't get it why some webers are fine with the stock fuel supply and others aren't. I would suspect mine wants more fuel at high throttle settings because of the hi-po cams it now has, although this problem seemed to exist beforehand as well.

I would put my money on timing. 8 degrees BTDC is the factory spec. However, I think you will find that an engine with the modifications that you speak of will want a bit more timing (Heck, I just bumped my Webered-and-Delta-cammed ea82 up to 22 degrees today without any hint of detonation. Much below that and it ran like absolute crap.) Also, is there an easy way to verify the cam timing on the ea81? When I first fired up my engine one of the cams was off a tooth and it backfired like crazy.

I haven't pinned it to the fuel pump yet, but it seems like the most likely candidate. The car accelerates great (for a soob) and will cruise just fine at nearly any speed. The problem comes in any situation where a large quantity of fuel is required, which leads me to the pump since I changed the filter last fall. For example, if I try to accelerate for a long period of time, it runs out of steam after a while, presumably when the float bowl is devoid of fuel. I can tell that there is a difference in power between short bursts of acceleration and longer-duration acceleration, so I don't think it is something that results in a constant power loss. I also noticed when I had the top of the carb off to replace the power valve that I destroyed that there wasn't a lot of fuel in the bowl. This means that either the float level is off (unlikely since I bought the carb new last fall, but I can check it if that sounds likely), or the fuel pressure is inadequate. Since you say the stock pressure on a new pump(thanks for the info, by the way) peaks at 3.3, which is on the bare minimum end of what the weber apparently wants, I would think that this could be a likely culprit.

Has anybody used the weber fuel pump that you can buy from www.carbsunlimited.com that is apparently suited to weber carbs? It puts out 3-4 psi, which is what I've been told the weber likes, so I would assume that no regulator is needed. Does anybody know the rating of the stock ea82 carbed fuel pump for pressure and volume? As I mentioned in another thread, I think my stock fuel pump is getting tired after 166,000 miles, or maybe it was never designed to produce enough pressure for the weber carb in the first place. Your thoughts please.

Higher pressure in an engine that doesn't need it does nothing but rob power and make it more prone to leakage. A new standard pump will give you plenty of pressure.

I've registered like three times and it won't let me log in. WTF? My old ezboard account should still be there but that's not working either.

Mmmmm..... Subaru beer. I might have to make some of that this summer. What kind of beer would best represent subarus?

Get a capacitor about the size of a football and connect that to the driver's door handle. Instant anti-theft device!

This is probably a stupid question, but why is there a coolant passage there in the first place? Does it circulate coolant throught part of the Hitachi carb to prevent icing or something?

Hmm, that's a weird one. I would recommend trying to break it up into chunks as much as you can, then use a really stiff wire bottle brush to get the rest out. If that crap is in the exhaust it probably has collected in the cat as well. Take out the oxygen sensor and peer in there. You should be able to tell if it's plugged or not just by looking at the cat material. If it's plugged, then either get a new cat or if it's legal in your area to do so, get rid of the cat stuff entirely by breaking it up with a rod through the oxygen sensor hole and dumping it out.

In a diesel, supplemental propane injection acts as a catalyst for the diesel fuel when it is introduced. It wouldn't be the same for a gasoline engine.

Just pry on it like a... (something that pries really hard)

15? That's nothing. New Caddies have 32! That's scary.

Thanks. I will now proceed checking the fuel pump output. Since I don't have a pressure gauge or anything, how much fuel should be coming out of the line if I just let it run?

Well, yeah, what the topic says. I changed the filter back by the tank a few thousand miles ago, and I'm wondering if there is another one somewhere, like there apparently is on ea81 soobs. I may also have a bad fuel pump though, because it seems like she's starving for fuel when a lot is required. It also looks like the float bowl isn't filling up properly. I haven't yet verfified the float travel on the Weber, but it should be good since I just bought that carb new a few months ago.

From what I've seen, Mobil 1 synthetic is the best oil, but you shouldn't switch to a synthetic unless your engine has recently been rebuilt or resealed, otherwise it will 1: leak and 2: the higher detergent properties will loosen up nasty crap that has found it's place over the years, possibly with ill effects. I just rebuilt my engine (less than 200 miles on it), and I'm breaking it in on the best dino oil I know of, which is Castrol GTX. After the first change at like 300 miles to get any crap out of the engine and the first real oil change at 3000, I'm switching over to Mobil 1 10w30. My other engine was run to its deathbed on that stuff (had really bad rings) and I'm convinced that I wouldn't have made it that far with any other oil (except maybe 15w40 diesel oil). For your brat, I would go with Castrol GTX 10w40, or if you're worried about oil pressure, go with 15w40 or 20w50.

I'll take one for sure.

Does anybody know where I might be able to find some wire headlight guards for an ea82 subaru? I've never seen any for this model, but there has to be some out there somewhere. Maybe you know of a vehicle with headlights of similar dimensions that I could adapt some from? Any help would be awesome.