Snowman

Okay, I can see doing this as long as you are sure that the wire you are running is at least as big as the wire that's already there. However, I would advise running larger gauge wire for a run that long to avoid as much resistance as possible. Skip, how did you hook up the indicator light?

Miles, I have to side with Skip on this one. I looked at this quite thoroughly when wiring a manual switch on mine, and unless your car came from the factory different from mine, the thermoswitch directly controls the current through the fan with no relay or anything. In the future, I think I may hook it up with a relay just because I think that would be a better setup, but here is what mine currently is, with the only thing changed from stock being the addition of a toggle switch:

The ASV system dumps air into the exhaust to help the cat burn unburned hydrocarbons better. Aside from emissions, and maybe decreasing the exhaust temps (why that would matter I don't know), I can't see where it has any use. The only reason I'm keeping mine on is in case I have to pass IM sometime.

Nobody that I know of sells new headlight covers, either plastic or metal. My parents looked high and low for a set for their old ea82 wagon, and all they could come up with was a set of stick-on sort-of covers that Continental had lying around.

Yeah, I just cleaned up my old followers really well since they showed no signs of unnatural wear or damage.

The short answer is no. There are a couple of options for this though. A few people have taken their n/a shortblock and slapped turbo heads, intake, computer, turbo, exhaust, etc... on. It sounds like this method requires a lot of tinkering, and probably access to a complete parts vehicle for all the wiring and such. Behind door number two is just swapping an entire turbo motor and everything that goes with it in. Again, a complete parts vehicle is a necessity. Also, you CAN turbo just about any engine. But to do it to your engine without some serious changes would be very difficult and probably not net a lot of power gains.

You might consider using some of that imitation chrome stuff that is meant to be sprayed on scratched bumpers, etc... Here's Roxanne with "fake-chromed" wheels. This is after fading for two years, and I think they would get a lot shinier with a few more coats of the stuff.

awwww yeah!

Here's Ruby with flat black rims:

I don't think they can give out that sort of information to random citizens such as yourself. But who knows under the Patriot Act?

Hey Matt, I'm pretty sure that you can get away with running an aftermarket muffler as long as there is a muffler on there. That's what I was running until a few months ago and just changing out the muffler made a big difference in the high-end power. Yeah, our emissions regs suck here. I just hope I don't get caught:D .

most drum brakes are self-adjusting with some sort of ratcheting mechanism

Holy cow, my optima has saved my a$$ bigtime. As many of you know, Webers don't like the cold. I had to crank it for a total of a minute or so before it would start one time, and by the end of that, the battery was barely starting to get tired. My old battery, even when new, couldn't even come close to that.

Cost: $130 + shipping for both cams Car: ea82 carbed, otherwise stock internally Specs: don't have the spec sheet here, but not radically different from stock. Stuff I remember is shorter overlap to bleed off less pressure, and I think later overall timing. Time: If it weren't for problems with my credit card number and shipping information, they would have taken three days to get here (AK) after Delta received the cams. Power gains: Dunno yet, they are going into the engine I am rebuilding right now. Delta says that they should increase hp and torque roughly 10% throughout the entire rpm range. No mention of shifting the powerband up or down. Overall impression: They are really nice, helpful people that sell a good product as far as I can tell. We shall see what their cams do for my motor (I can't wait!).

After having to find all my rebuild parts from various sources, and the increased shipping coming from more than one place, I would strongly suggest complete rebuild kits. Also: Complete oil pumps maybe a kit that has everything for the "front end of motor job", T-belts, T-belt cover gaskets, cam seals, oil pump reseal set, water pump and hoses, front main seal, am I forgetting everything? Basically my suggestion is to make complete kits for everything that we do in one job. That way, we don't have to run around getting this part here and that part there, it's all together. Even if it cost a bit more, the time and effort saved would be worth the price.

here here, don't want to be doggin' on anybody, but we need to get the ball rolling here.

Have you checked the resistance in each circuit with a DMM?

What's the difference between Ultra Grey and regular red Anaerobic sealant?

What GM vehicle did you get the alt from? (Sorry if this was mentioned already, I couldn't find it.)

well, Napa only has sleeves for loyales, which use a larger diameter shaft, but they were able to cross-reference the seal. For anybody that's interested, the part number for this magical oil pump seal is 7012.

Thanks, I called NAPA and they were finally able to find a sleeve for it.

I did a search and couldn't come up with this. Some time ago, somebody was talking about a different oil pump shaft seal for ea82s that moved the sealing point to a new, unworn place on the shaft. I thought it was WJM, but he said it wasn't him. Anybody know anything about this?

"i've never seen a suby engine with bad rings before with just regular wear and tear." I've got an ea82 with bad rings in one cylinder. It was a used japanese import engine, and I put 20,000 miles on it, none of which I would consider abuse, always keeping the oil up and never overheating it. Somehow, the rings failed and that cylinder has half the compression of the others. The only other thing wrong with the motor is an occasional lifter tick. Probably an isolated incident, but proof that it does happen. That's why I'm being extra careful and am in the process of totally rebuilding the original engine that came in the car.

i didn't see that is was a turbo:rolleyes:

Hey WJM, have you tried this adapter yet on your car? The reason I ask is that a couple years ago I bought a remote dual oil filter kit, and the adapter that screwed on in place of the stock filter sucked. It stayed on, but the threads just weren't the right size or something, so I took it off in fear of it taking itself off. $30 sounds like a good deal, and I've already got an old oil coiler off of a four-wheeler sitting in the garage that would be about the right size. Now, the way these work is that when the oil is cold it just flows through the filter and into the engine, then when the opening temperature is reached, the oil goes through the cooler, then through the filter, then into the engine, right?