Snowman

The Legacy radiator is FAR superior to the EA82 radiator, and you can fit one from a 90-92 with very little modification.

GD is right about the rubber fuel hose. When I put SPFI and later on an EJ22 in my EA82 car, I replaced all the rubber hose with new high pressure rated marine fuel hose. Unless the hard lines are rusted, they're fine. BTW: I just mounted the SPFI pump back by the tank. I think it would starve for fuel if it was mounted in then engine compartment and didn't have another pump supplying it.

Another possibility, though not likely, is a damaged, but not completely broken, fusible link. My car did that two years ago...would go to 19 or 20 volts sometimes, other times it worked fine, then it completely died. One of the fusible links had burned most of the way through, but was barely able to pass current, so the alternator cranked out a ton of volts to compensate...

It's been said, but I'll say it again. Subarus like regular NGK plugs (the parts store here only stocks the "V-power" ones for the EJ cars, so I use those and they work just fine), and only OEM PCV valves. I put an aftermarket one in my car, and it burned oil immediately.

I saw pics of one that was done by a company specializing in Subaru VW swaps. Looked siiiiiiiick. Maybe try a google search...

Very nice. So, do I have permission to print some of these flyers out and post them up around town?

Darn you Noah, I was really hoping for that one last year after driving about 2000 miles one way. Does it count for extra miles if about 80 of those were on unpaved roads? Hey Sparkster, thanks for the offer. I might give you a ring when I start planning my trip. If I do come, there will definitely be a seafood barbecue like last year. Great idea, Matt!

The other difference that wasn't mentioned (or maybe I just didn't see it) is that apparently the EA82T main bearings are slightly wider for more surface area. However, many people have run N/A blocks with the turbo and no bearing failure, so I don't think it's a problem. So, to recap, aside from: 1. Different pistons 2. PCV port 3. Wider main bearings The EA82 and EA82T are identical from the headgasket surface inward.

Only temporarily though, as oil will cause it to swell and break down over time.

Curses! I think that's the weekend before I have to be back in class again! Maybe I'll fly down this year...

Yeah, the EJ18 makes at least 20 more horses than the EA82.

Austin was the Dr. Frankenstein that created Water Wagon. I'm pretty sure Mudrat had a hand in it too...dealing with the adapter plate and stuff.

Yes, gravity bleeding is accepted practice, and is generally used on systems that have some stubborn air trapped in them that normal bleeding will not remove. Generally, gravity bleeding will get that air out. That said, it takes a long time, so most people just do it normally.

The best trick I've found for getting the axle back through is a piece of aluminum pipe the same size as the inner bearing race. Hold the pipe against the bearing and beat on it with a hammer, and it will drive the hub assembly over the axle in no time, without putting any stress on the wheel bearings. Whatever you do, NEVER pound on the hub assembly or the outer bearing race, as that will put a massive shock load on the bearings, possibly damaging them and shortening their life.For removal, I generally give the axle a nice whack with a deadblow hammer.

Yup, you'll need a crossmember from a turbo car, or you can just notch yours so the exhaust fits. You'll need the ECM and the entire wiring harness from the dash forward. The wiring is not that bad, but you'll need a factory service manual for it.

What's going on with the car? All I can tell you for sure right now is that there's something wrong:drunk: .

As it turns out, you can use the auto computer with a manual tranny or the manual computer with the auto tranny. I was under the impression that they were different when I wrote the manual, but have since been corrected. As far as the park switches and stuff, you shouldn't have to worry about them. They are only there to prevent starting in gear, and if they aren't hooked up, the computer will think it's in neutral all the time.

Not having torn down a VW engine, I really don't know much about them, but I would mention that removable cylinder liners are generally a good thing, not a hindrance. That's how they do it on all the heavy duty engines, so that you can just replace the liners instead of boring the block. Are they wet liners (where coolant actually circulates around the liner) or dry (where coolant goes through passages in the block but never touches the liner)? Anyway, sounds like a great project. Must see pictures!

Whoah, whoah, whoah.... About the single vs dual port EJ22 exhaust... does anybody know for sure which engines had which exhaust? I can tell you for sure that: My 96 Legacy had single port. The Canadian 89 Legacy engine my my EA82 wagon has dual port. My friend's Legacy, which I think is a 91, has dual port. A Canadian 92 Legacy engine, which I almost used for my swap, has dual port. So all of the wiring harness connections on the EJ22 intake manifold will plug right into the body-side connectors of the EJ25 car?

Hey Brad, if you do decide to go with an EJ tranny, I'm going to have one on hand here in a couple months, when I convert back to my d/r. I'm sure I could get it up to you if you're interested.

Ditto. I think that the SPFI wagon had something wrong with it. My EA82 seemed to have more torque with the SPFI on it than with the Weber.

Darn you Brad!!! Well, I guess since I've got the first EJ-powered wagon in the state, you've gotta do one better and have the first TURBO EJ-powered wagon. I can't wait to see this thing run. Feel free to give me a call if you've got any questions. Also remember to check out the link on the board to the 92 legacy FSM. That will help a great deal. However, don't forget the Chiltons manual...that one shows all the wiring you need to adapt to get it to run, without all the other stuff that you just have to swap in.

Also, the EJ22 is superior to the EJ25 in that it: 1. Doesn't like to blow headgaskets regularly. 2. Is a non-interference engine, so it's okay if the timing belt breaks (which can happen to even a new belt if you get mud/water on it. 3. Doesn't have piston slap issues. The EJ22, since it came in every 90-94 Legacy, is also substantially cheaper and more widely available than any other EJ engine. That said, I am pondering the possibility of running an EJ22 with an EJ25 ECM and fuel system. Why? In talking to a friend of mine that does Subaru Vanagon conversions, I found out that it's possible to interchange the fuel/ignition systems on the two engines with very little work. The EJ22 fuel and spark maps are designed to produce better top-end power, while the EJ25 fuel and spark maps are designed to produce better low-end power. In trying to build a real screamer, my friend ran an EJ25 engine with the EJ22 ECM. Soooo, in theory, an EJ22 engine running the EJ25 ECM should have more low-end than a stock EJ22. If the VSS could be dealt with, this would be a good conversion for off road use.

If you don't have a voltmeter, this is a GREAT time to buy one, as it will make this process very easy, and probably save you time and money in the long run. Check the voltage at the battery with the car running and all electrical loads on. It should be around 13.5-14.5 volts. My guess is that it's slightly lower, and the battery is not getting charged. A no-charge condition can be caused by a faulty alternator or excessive resistance in the power or ground side. If your battery voltage while running is lower than 13.5 volts, check the voltage between the alternator case and the positive terminal on the alternator. If it is more than one or two tenths of a volt higher than the battery voltage, there is excessive resistance somewhere. For example, a friend's 91 legacy was only getting 12.4 volts to the battery with the engine running and all loads on...turned out to be a bad wire between the alternator and the main fuse box. If you have excessiver resistance, you can determine where it is by checking for voltage drop in the power side, and in the ground side. To check the power side, place on voltmeter lead on the positive terminal on the alternator, and one lead on the battery's positive terminal. If the reading is not very close to zero, there is excessive resistance and either the connections or the wires are faulty. To check the ground side, place one lead on the alternator case and one on the negative battery terminal, and if the voltage is not very close to zero, there is excessiver resistance in the ground side, caused by bad connections or faulty wires. If you determine where the excessive resistance is, you can narrow it down to a specific wire or connection by continuing to measure voltage drop across individual components (such as placing one lead on the alternator case and one lead on the engine block.) Hope this helps.

I never did, and never had any problems in 20,000 of use. That's on a naturally aspirated, basically stock engine, which is not naturally prone to HG issues. If I was building a turbo motor that I knew was going to be run hard, I would definitely retorque the bolts to avoid any risk of blowing the gasket or damaging the heads.