Snowman

There are also some companies that will make up custom wheel sets, but you're talking at least $100 a wheel.

Wow, if the price was that low I might think about a set for the RX. Shipping would kinda suck for me though:rolleyes: .

Torxxx, you got my phone number? I'll be in class after 10 am, but feel free to call any time of the night if you need help. Since I'll be in class until 4 or 5, could somebody post or PM me about where we're meeting at?

When I put my engine together, a pretty good engine builder told me this: Accelerate at WOT as much as you can. When doing anything besides acceleration, just drive normally and avoid really high revs for prolonged periods.

I would totally help out with that. I know there's not much I've done as far as on-road stuff, but I'm planning on doing some more in the near future. I would help in writing tech articles, or if people would be interested in buying any stuff that I could make I'd be up for that too.

I've always like Gallo's over on Dimond.

I'll send mountainbikeak a pm. Do we know where we're going yet? Oh yeah, and Torxxx, I'll give you a buzz this afternoon.

36 mm on ea71, ea81, and ea82 on all of them that I've seen.

Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner all the way. This stuff WORKS. I often work for a fuel company in the summers, and it's the only product we sell that we gaurantee will do something.

Will that sump guard from the gen 1 legacy bolt up to the gen 2 legacy?

bump

"so I guess Hooters and the Bush Company are out of the picture." -northguy Or if they're not, way to go torxxx! I'd be game for some Thai food, as I've never really tried it before.

helloooooo, anybody here? echo echo echo

Sort of hijacking, but close enough that I thought I'd post here: My mom's 97 legacy outback has no skidplate whatsoever, which scares me. Does anybody know if there was one made by subaru that would bolt up to this car that I could scrounge from a JY?

I remember a board member recently fabbed up a heim-joint setup that replaced the rubber bushings on the front suspension radius rods. That would be something to look into.

Is there any way to bypass the fuel cut? How is it triggered? There's got to be a way to do this without going to complete stand-alone management.

I'm still available. Where is everybody else?? I PM'ed all the anchorage area people last time I tried to get something together and haven't heard back yet.

Give CCR a call, they should know for sure if the pistons swap and what it does with compression. www.ccrengines.com

I have been told that pistons interchange. People often run EA71 pistons in their EA81 to bump up compression. I looked into that and it appeared from everything that I found that you can also interchange with EA82 pistons. Others know more about this and I'm sure they'll chime in soon.

All the ea82 subarus I have seen use an internal regulator. Northwet, where is the external regulator located? I know on the ea71 and early ea81 it's in front of the right strut tower. What is the voltmeter reading with the engine running? A good alternator generally runs between 13.5 and 14.5 volts.

This is a really perplexing issue for me as well. There are so many EA82/ER27 engines with low oil pressure that don't make a single tick, and there are a bunch with great oil pressure that sound like they're coming apart. There are several things that could contribute to low pressure. You're on the right track with the relief valve thing, but I think that if the valve was bad or the spring worn, it would NEVER have much pressure, which doesn't seem to be the case here. The pressure reliefs in the cam cases could also be suspect though. I don't know if there is any way to test this, but it's possible that you just need a new spring in there entirely. If that piece is bad, the engine could still build pressure when cold, but it would be enough of a bypass to let it get down really low once the oil is warm. One of the most common causes is needing to reseal the oil pump, which is quite possible. Not only can the pressure get low, but the pump can suck air in and put bubbles in the oil, which is not good for the lifters. I would recommend pulling the pump out and measuring it to see if it's still within factory specs. If it is, I'd reseal. If not, or if it's shady, I would check on www.1stsubaruparts.com for a new pump. I dunno if it's the same pump as the EA82, but mine cost less than $120. It is also entirely possible, especially since you indicate that the noise is localized to a couple of lifters, that those HVLA's are just bad. Have you disassembled the lifters to see what sort of condition they are in? New ones are expensive, but somebody recently found a place that sells rebuilt ones for like $8 apiece. I bet you could find the thread with a search. I hope that some of that long-winded diatribe helps:rolleyes: . Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that the pressure readings you describe, though not what I would consider to be normal, are apparently "OK". In my owners manual it says that it is "normal" for the pressure to drop to zero, at least on the factory gauge, while idling.

Haha, that second snow pic brings back sooo many memories from my first season driving in the winter! The only thing that I was proud of was the fact that most of the time the rescue vehicle got stuck trying to get close enough to pull me out!

Different pictures would make it kinda hard:drunk: .

Hmmm...... I'll have to ask about that. That does make sense.

"I'm disagreeing It's not a EA Subaru. Look at the doors and notice the window frames? The early 80's Subarus in the image gallery don't have window frames? Look at the hood and notice the lack of a center ridge/bump at the center front. There are no side ridges on the hood either?" -Sweet82 Hmmm.... that's interesting. What about the fact that those are undeniably subaru wheels, and in that case the only other possible car that it could be is a Pug 504 or 505? I also clearly saw the y-pipe and oil pan, which are distinctly subaru.