Setright

Me too Subyluvr, and my the dealer who fitted it, doesn't care

Mobil ATF 220. Mineral Dexron II rating.

No, no, no, pull the handbrake and broadside the poor animal! Just kidding, it's always gonna be tricky to make the right decision in such circumstances, so here's my advice that will count in any situation: 1: Keep your thumbs OUT of the steering wheel, if you hit something the wheel can spin round fast enough to break them off. 2: If driving a Legacy, and like me more than six feet tall, make sure your left knee is free of the steering wheel. The wheel well has a tendency to crunch in off-centre impacts and you'll need your knee to move backward, past the steering wheel. 3:Don't pinch pennies when buying tyres!

Hella FF75, put out plenty of light and are very compact. Design matches the car quite well too.

applegump, when do you come up with this theory? The gearbox was designed to use a specific fluid. Characteristics include internal friction, hydraulic stability, seal treatment, temperature sensitivity. Dexron III is different, but not necessarily better.

Maybe your clutch needs adjustment, sounds like it might not be dis-engaging fully. Redline 75W-90NS has improved my cold-shift.

Hejsan! I expect the HVAC link is good enough, but be aware that the socket on the unit can break the solder points and cause the lights to go out. I resoldered mine when I replaced the bulbs. I would suggest replacing all the bulbs by the way, also the dash bulbs. This will also give you access to the speedo cable. I haven't heard of noisy speedo cables before, so I don't have any specific advice. Are you sure the engine actually reaches operating temperature? Non-genuine thermostats tend to have weak springs that open to early and over-cool the engine. It could also be air in the coolant system, preventing a stable reading.

Stick with the correct rating, you can't be sure what will happen if you choose a different fluid.

OE pump? Some copies don't have as many vanes on the pump wheel and cant move enough coolant.

What exactly is the problem? Has it been run with different size tyres front to rear? New on one end and old on the other end will damage the diff, due to axle speed variations.

Money no object?

If it's similar to the older models, then yes, you need to get the panel around the gearstick off first

No, it is not obvious! I would recommend replacing the "stab assy", part no. 62310AA010, which is a bracket mounted felt pad that pushes the window inward. There are two in each door, and you will need to remove the inner cladding to get at them. Removing the rubber trim/seal at the top of the door - single screw on the trailing edge, and slide it back - also helps access. Do this before playing with the preload!

Understooded! Does it have the steering wheel on the "wrong" side? I would go with the coolant temp sensor, too.

Craig, there is a dash bulb to indicate rear brake light failure. Will come on if ONE bulb is gone and the brake is depressed, with the engine running. I would second Texan's motion and bleed the brake system thouroughly. Castrol DOT4 "Response" serves me very well!

Texan, top notch humour

If it can get up to 75 faster, then surely it has more power, and should be able to pass 75. Unless it's an electric thing, like the ghost of a cruise control??

Hmm, are you CERTAIN you want to ruin a perfectly nice paint job? My advice is to do something discrete and understated, but distinctive enough to make it unique. Will/Does it have a body kit? You could paint these items in a similar shade, preferably darker, to pull the car down to the road. Go-faster stripes are 1980's naff, don't do it!

Off hand, avoid re-starting it? It's not a Windoze PC after all

Josh! In my own private world of automotive terms: Driveshaft/half-shafts provide drive from a diff to a wheel. A propshaft provides drive between diffs, or engine and a diff. Axle is anything cylindrical that might rotate or facilitate the rotation of something mounted to it

I hope you haven't disabled the PCV system.

Crikey! Over here we might see some snow soon, but it'll be too warm for it to hang around I have to wait 'til January for my powerslides!!

DO NOT push the brake pedal all the way! You will damage the internal seals in the master cylinder!! This is is why I prefer the "one man" system, with a valve in the hose going into the bottle. I can push the brake pedal myself!

Okay, my bad. I know your car is FWD, but I meant that one of the axles could be out of balance. Terminology is so hard to get right! I would have said "propshaft"

Maybe your auto-trans is getting tired? Do you work it hard?? Doesn't sound like a driveshaft problem, for which I would expect a clonking on low speed tight turn manouvres, and only a single clonk at throttle on or off. It COULD be a badly balanced driveshaft, and during deceleration you hit a spot where it was able to resonate. I hate these kinds of intermittent problems, you replace something and think everything is fine 'cause you can't provoke the problem back. Then, like two days later ....clonk..drone...splutter!