Setright

If you are serious about brake performance then slotted rotors are the only thing. Drilled rotors reduce fade when the pads are hot, but lacking the slots means that they cannot rejuvenate the pad surface properly. Only drawback with slots is reduced pad life, mine last 30k miles of mixed city/rural/highway driving. Mintex OE-replacement pads. I will be happy explain why this is my belief if anyone doubts me

I have heard told that the extra heat can cause the headlight glass to crack if you get sprayed with cold water from a puddle. Believable, considering that those bulbs pull about 8 amperes!

Danish winters can get pretty cold and I have found a BIG advantage using synthetic. Redline is a notch better than Mobil, but both beat all the competitors hands down. Redline 75W-90NS in the manual 'box, shifts very smoothly in hot and cold weather - M1 lags little in extreme cold. Both have the friction modifiers in them already. Redline make a 75W-90 for non-LSD diffs, which would be good to use in conjuction with an autobox.

Automatics have a separate compartment for the front diff. Both this and the rear diff probably use GL5 75W-90 oil - check the owners manual. ATF in the gearbox itself. Subes usually have drain plugs on all the transmission parts, but I can't be certain about yours... Rear diff plugs require a 1/2 inch socket driver.

Well, since to date I have only towed one vehicle: Morgan Plus4 Damn Lucas electrics

Additives are not something I would recommend. The ATF will already have a carefully balanced blend of components. Why mess with this? Any respected brand will do, on its own. Mobil, Amsoil, Redline, Castrol...

Before waxing....it helps clean off the silicone spilt on the paintwork!

http://www.geocities.com/vik2r/Sube/new_wheels/subaru2.jpg Again, not a wagon....15x6.5J ET50 195/60 RE720'ies, top quality handling!

Happy to hear that no one was injured I think the impact speed is over-estimated. 30mph would have written off both cars. Make sure the car is jigged up and measured carefully to check for skew in the whole body.

5x100....ET55, possibly down to 45 on 7 inch wide rims

Well, Alias, I hear your arguments, they are well thought out, and I offer my respect in that regard. Having said that: A car is not the place to enage in Hi-Fi fanatism. There are to many disruptive noises around. I find that high mounted tweeters deliver a very high sound quality. Low mounted they tend to get damped by my legs and by those of the front seat passenger. A simple adjustment on the balance of the amp will present a fine sound stage, that is plenty good for automotive purposes.

You should be able to fix it with minimal cost. Mine did the same. First off all, the seal on the glass plate is SUPPOSED to allow water past it. There are four drains running down through the roof pillars to deal with the water. Open sunroof, you should be able to see the top of the tubes at the front. Try pouring some water in there and it should run down and come out under the car behind the front wheel well. If not, you will need to unblock the drains. Compressed air, a long metal wire, whatever you can get in there and unblock it with. This however, was not what caused my leak, and blocked drains aren't common. The rails that the sunroof slides on are the weak point. There is a liquid seal applied to their underside that may be leaking. Either the seal is cracked, or as in my case, the screws holding down the rail are loose/busted. Loosen them all as far back as you can, and tighten them back up from the rear toward the front. (Should be able to access three screws/bolts). The bracket that holds the wind-deflector at the leading edge of the sunroof hole is part of the system holding the rails down. The bolts tend to strip and the nut can't be tightened enough. I cut a new thread on mine and filled the nut with "Loc-Tite". Two years later, it's still holding tight. Sorry if my explanation is a bit confusing, feel free to ask questions

Well, since I own a sedan, I can only be sure about what to do for your front doors! I am using 6 inch JBL Power Series, 2-way. Top quality sound for the money. I ripped the factory speakers out their metal mounting bracket and re-used these to fix the JBL's into place. I have a added a "P-Kit" and lifted the tweeters up to the area just ahead of the door handle. It's snug behind the ventilation tube, but it does fit. No doubt, moving the tweeters up is a BIG plus for sound. I will look into posting some pics this evening - European time! My rear shelf is 5.25 inch, also JBL Power Series, but the bass is sadly lacking compared to the 6 inch units. Therefore, I strongly recommend using 6 inches all round, even it does mean cutting into things.

The filter doesn't matter. What toss is this? The filter is an essential part of the lubricating system. DO NOT neglect it.

Will it unscrew? Turn it counter-clockwise. It might require a firm grip and quite an effort to get it moving. I am not certain that it is screwed on, but it would surprise me if it isn't. Don't overdue the turning if it won't budge. Once off, you will probably need to hacksaw off an inch or two of the rod itself, otherwise the new knob will sit very high.

Inner tubes make for a safer wheel. If you hit a sharp-ish edge, like a curb or pot hole, at speed, then the chance of the rim loosing the tyre is very low. Carcass related blow-outs are also reduced in severity. Inner tubes are common in rallying.

Inner tubes.

Guys, guys, guys! There is of course no right or wrong answer here, that boils down to personal preference and likely usage of the car. Having said that, there are a few points that haven't been made yet! Subaru's 5MT has a desperately slow shift. I defy anyone to shift up from 2nd to 3rd without a clunk. I have tried different oils, and certainly Redline is the best suited, but the synchromesh on these 'boxes is seriously weak. Fortunately the brake and accelerator pedal are sat close enough, and at the correct height for some heel-and-toe action. I just wish it wasn't mandatory. It brings down mileage. Next up, Subaru has the nerve to deliver a clutch with so much judder that it makes me fear for my engine mounts. I replaced mine because I was replacing the failed main bearings at 120k miles, and thought I might as well install a new clutch while everything was open. 60k miles later and all that cold clutch slipping needed for smooth take-offs seems to have killed the clutch. These two aspects SERIOUSLY affect the fun factor of driving a 5MT. And please don't tell me that these things are distorting the picture, because Subaru should really have done better! Some manuals are excellent, some are slow, some are baulky, som are both. Same goes for autos, some "hunt" back for between the two top gears, some shift to early, some are a pain to get to downshift, and some are excellent and have the ability to be in the right gear at the right time. Oh, which reminds me: Autos shift much faster than manuals.

It is actually "normal", and not something you should worry about it the steering function is okay. My Legacy rattles too, but the steering works perfect, direct, plenty of feedback...nothing to be concerned about. Unless of course something under the car is loose or broken.

I would strongly recommend draining both and re-filling with the correct fluid - free of "stop leak". Check the level every 600 miles or so, and rebuild if/when it comes back.

Indeed, I limit myself to 100mph on wet Autobahns. If the stretch is de-restricted of course! Have you noticed how many stretches have "110 bei nasse" signs? "70mph in the wet" Watch out, the cops get really angry if you ignore these signs! Over 30km/h above the limit and your license is in serious danger.

Found this yesterday, hope you get the english slang....."to pull" means to get a chick home for the night! http://www.uniquemotorsports.com/subachad/articles/impreza_rights.htm

"Plonker" is a derogatory term, English slang, I believe it's roots can be traced to things that we flush down the toilet Grew up in Singapore and spent five years at the American School, six at the International School - which is basically English - so my langauge can sometimes be all over the place. I am actually Danish, you know! Sorry about your injury, man. Don't beat yourself for not going ballistic on the guy who did it. There is always some shock and disbelief that needs to get out the way before the anger hits.

Keith! Who was the plonker who did that?? It's much worse than it looks..

Funny Josh, must be our full-throttle driving style, my intake looks just as clean!!