Setright

LOL! I grew up in Singapore and went to a very proper English school. So, my dear readers, I would seem to have cornered the prize for correct spelling. English did come first, lest you forget

Danes salt the roads too, I got the drum/disc of my Legacy after ten years that way. Off my six year old Impreza this summer, too. Visiting Copenhagen? Keep an eye out for me - Blue Impreza burbling along or a silver Forester with "Intermedium" written down the sides....

But, but, the question has already been answered. To metric 8mm bolts, thread into the two holes, tighten alternately...presto

I'm bowing, humbly ;-) And glad you actually read my posts in such detail

Bosch make those that are used by ambulances over here. I rigged these up on our ancient Toyota Crown when living in Singapore, and the car seemed to vibrate with the noise. Very "focused" sound wave, good for pointing at cars straight in front, but not very useful when someone is mozying into your lane from the side. Fiamm is Italian - but even BMW uses their products, so the quality is good. The advantage of the trumpet type electromagnetic horns like these is that you don't need to wire up two sets of horns. A light tap on the horn button will just produce a small "burp" and not scare the pants of pedestrians. Hella make this type of horn too, in style and size with Fiamms AM80.

The Asian market has had a 1.6 for ages. I think this is just the latest version. I have no info on the bore/stroke, but it's likely to be the same old 75mm stroke.

Local dealer has had a go in one, says it feels gutless. And he reckons a 2.0 Legacy 2004 Legacy with 138bhp isn't gutless. That means the 1.5 is S-L-O-W :cool:

Hydroplaning is not affected by AWD / RWD / FWD As some people already mentioned, it's only related to speed, tyres, and depth of water. Where AWD does make a difference is on the resulting wheelspin. It will be reduced notably. An FWD car will tend to tug on the steering wheel a lot as the fronts spin indepedently. RWD will fill loose in the rear. AWD will do a bit of both, but less pronounced and more predictable.

A few bubbles, especially after shut off are not a sign of anything. Expansion/overflow tank is supposed to have a higher level when the engine is warm. The coolant expands as it heats and needs somewhere to go. Check it again when it's cold. The level should drop. The bubbles are likely just coolant in the the small hose that runs from rad to overflow tank. It rests above the rad, right? This means the fluid in the small hose will be subjected to heat and maybe cause a slight boil in the hose which will bubble in the overflow.

That is SOOOO cool! You MUST buy it

WAIT! All you need to do is get an alignment. The front end allows you to dial in some negative camber. You should be able to get at least -0.5 degrees. The difference over the factory spec 0.0 is phenomenal! Did this to my Impreza - which doesn't even have a rear ARB - and understeer is a thing of the past. As long as you don't turn-in on full throttle. Just slowly squeeze the gas pedal once you're in the curve and the car will move toward very mild oversteer. Try this cheap and simple mod first. Or, fit new struts then do the needed alignment. ARB mods may become redunant.

Easy peasy. You'll need a socket wrench with at least 10 inches of extension lengthwise. The sensor has a bolt straight down through the middle. Accessed via the rear of the intake plenum. Can't help you on price, since I live in Europe...

The three Subaru's I have had lengthy experience with - 1992, 2000, 2006 - all have fans that make a subdued ticking noise, most obvious in the 1 and 2 position. I have tried cleaning the cylindrical fan in the 2000 car and it didn't help. I think it's just the noise they make. If there's some sort of debris in there, you can often get it unstuck by setting the fan speed to maximum and then playing with the direction switch: Full wack on the windscreen, full on the center vents....back and forth.

Well, I found that the nuts holding the lights in had worked themselves loose. I re-tightened them without doing any re-sealing and they're holding tight a year later

Myth.

Very nice, good to see the car being used properly

Gravityman! Check the oil level, top it off i needed. If the shop measures the oil level below "min" they'll blame you. Best of luck, please let us know what happens - I think I have the same engine in my Forester...

Really, Fiamm AM100, nipper you will not be disappointed. Especially if you use the relay they supply and install some thicker wires from horn to battery I've seen them rate up to 130dB - but I reckon 120dB is more likely. AM80 are 114dB

The AC takes heat from the cabin and dumps just in front of the engine radiator. So running the AC will "stress" the engine cooling system. You need to make sure the AC radiator is free of dirt/bugs/rust/stones so as to allow as much air through it as possible. A lot of gunk will accumulate between the two radiators. I've found that flushing with a hose can get a lot of the stuff out.

Fiamm AM100 These are a bit bigger than AM80, but the extra sound volume is worth it! Be sure to purchase two, one high one low, to get that 100Hz beat frequency that really travels and rattles the windows on other cars. These have saved me a number of times when dozy drivers have strayed into my lane while I was just next to them. Really, they scream and they mean it! Sounds like a tugboat when it bounces off city walls

Denmark? And you didn't give me advance notice??? Thanks to me, there are two parked on the road we live on The main reason Subaru's aren't plentiful here is the price of cars in general. We face 180% registration fee, and THEN 25% VAT on top af that!!! (Socialist rule has brought this upon us.) AWD costs more, but doesn't shine through at the showroom, and Mr. and Mrs. Average don't see why they should spend the extra money. We're also very conservative and brand image driven. Subaru is obscure and no Dane dares take a chance and be the black sheep. Really, they are worried they'll get "bullied" if the decision turns out to be a bad one. Of course, those people I do meet with Subes are all convinced. Easier to get a Toyota like the Joneses, or perhaps an Audi <- Which has an unreasonably good following. Subaru IS the fastest growing brand in Sweden, Norway, and Finland, but it'll take a while before it replaces all those old Volvos. Besides, you'll need to be north of Stockholm to see the new Subes. Plenty up there. Oh, and last year they changed the laws on speeding, yet again. Used to put your license in danger at 186kph, now that's only 160kph. So, you were risking a VERY big fine. Oh, and why the plethora of SUV's?? Did you notice that most of them were on yellow license plates? With the back seats out and rebuilt as vans? Depending on weight that can reduce the registration fee to 110%, 90% or even as low as 30%. That last catagory is reserved for the really heavy gas guzzlers. Yep, they cost a bomb to fuel, but the up front price of the car is very much reduced. It's a bit of a loophole, and ultimately, it's aimed at businesses who need space for craftmans/artisans tools in the back. But as long as you pay the 25% VAT, you can run one privately.

No, that mileage should be attainable with an engine in proper tune and light right foot Impreza's of that age have very few faults. It started life in 1992 so any teething problems were ironed out earlier. Happy hunting

True Nipper, but you'd have to really stomp on the pedal to produce pure runaway wheelspin. If you're sensitive with the clutch you could move off. The drag in the oil inside the side-to-side diff and friction in the drivetrain means the diffs aren't 100% open in practice.

HOW MANY FLUIDS GET MORE DENSE WHEN THEY HEAT UP? The VC fluid expands as it heats up and presses the plates closer together. The drag in the oil prodives the drive.

The spring is there to reduce initial pedal pressure. It's not essential.