maozebong

try using a drill bit that you dont need. they are made of a hardened steel that should be able to punch it back the opposite way. it kinda sounds like you have it 180 degrees out

a coilover shock not designed to handle a load? yer off your rocker. providing its mounting points are radially loaded and not side loaded its going to be fine, especially since he went to a SLA front suspension. and anyways, if it does break, his wheel will still be on the car, buried in the wheel well.... not rolled over in a firey death wreck. at least somebody is going and seeing what works in the real world. without people like him, we would never have the legendary 2" block lift that is tried, true, yet frequently called sketchy.

or you could do inboard shock mounting there sure is enough room for it where the spare is.

i hope they make the cvt strong enough. most do not like sudden jolts and will snap the internal chain on the cvt. but, the diesel option sounds good.

sure he can. the alignment rack's pads/boxes (depends how old it is) clamp on to the rim, which would take the calculation off the wheel, not tire like you would if you used strings.

id love to see a sticky like that. maybe with a few exceptions for non dealer items or known good useable replacements IE: using fel-pro permatorque HG's and instead of the EA 55amp alternator, use the 90 amp maxima alternator and here's the link to the writeup.

warm air intake is moreso the part of running coolant through the intake manifold on "wet flow" intakes because fuel vapor wont condensate on the intake walls.

now it makes more sense. i never caught the part about limited access to tools, and etc. good luck with your lifting and have fun!

is your EA82 diesel? no? well, then the same theory doesnt quite apply. not to mention, your ecu is not programmed to run without it, and can cost mileage especially at light throttle cruising. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exhaust_gas_recirculation#EGR_in_spark-ignited_engines

yes i have seen it, and read most of his highly detailed writeups. in fact, his ingenuity with his cars is pretty amazing. i was mostly just suggesting that he should lift it, and it doesnt take but maybe 2 hours to lengthen a steering shaft that will never break... and that its almost as easy as cutting the tube blocks.

port the heads and intake. there is a REAL mod you can do, with real gains. also, egr is used to lower combustion temperatures. if you block it, the ecu doesnt know it and will waste gas. make sure ignition and valve timing are okay. get only ngk v-power plugs, and gap .005-.010" larger than spec. waste another 40 bucks on an accel superstock coil... i have an spfi ea82 that i dyno'd myself to make 77hp to the wheels. i also get easily 25 mpg on the highway with 29" tires, and loads more mileage with the stock size tire. but i also know the tricks of the trade you can put a high quality synthetic grease for the bearings to decrease rolling resistance, along with the axle cups, and increased tire pressure. i personally use almagard 3752 from LE. its special order and $430 a case. im lucky the race team i work for pays for it

did you end up going with the 2" square tube blocks? they are REALLY cheap to make... my lift cost me only 20$ for bolts! and i have gotten airborne in mine and 4 wheel mine pretty regularly, and the tubes have yet to collapse or bend or anything.... its 1/4" thick tubing, which is twice as thick as any one piece of structural unibody metal.. its even thicker than the metal it mounts to on the strut tower. if you daily drive the car, drop the crossmember down an inch so you dont have to replace axles that much. you can use 1" square channel to drop it. ive heard you dont always have to lengthen the steering shaft, just reach down there and loosen the bolt that holds it on so that it can slide a bit and let the crossmember drop down a bit. apparently some steering joints arent as long as others (i think the loyale's have the long one, older ones might be shorter.) if you want to lenthen it, hack it in half in the middle of the two u-joints and weld a 1" piece of pipe in place. i know you might live in honduras, but there has to be someone with a welder nearby... or use a spare steering u-joint. its not hard at all and can be accomplished with a drill, a few drill bits, a framing square and a circular saw with metal blade (compound miter saw is preferred) like one eye (i think it was him) said, the only people who have a problem with this lift are the ones who havent done it. i wouldn't hesitate to transport family, friends, or myself in my loyale with a 2" tube lift.

BADASS. how much travel are you going to have in this bad boy?

i think the wheels the op got have more positive offset than they should. i have 235-75-15's on my loyale and they dont rub a bit. those wheels just dont look like the right offset, but maybe its me. edit: the op's wheel is also improperly balanced with two weights at different spots. lol sorry

91 loyale pushbutton 4wd 235/75/15 on redrilled yota's 2" homemade lift midwest rust load bearing bumper stickers

i have disassembled miata CV's outer joint.. i sent the cups and balls in to be coated. if they are any bit the same with the circlip at the outboard joint id think you could rebuild them. anyone know if it is possible?

are the inner tie rods the same for power as they are for manual steering? rockauto has 2 left of the manual steering on sale for 15 a piece. the only other ones they have are 45 a piece. would be a decent savings. thanks guys.

not possible for the engine, but you better hope that block seal junk doesnt clog your heater core or radiator.

you are going to have a hell of a time getting those to fit, but more power to ya. just so you know, there is plans on here for a 2" lift that costs no more than 50$ for bolts and steel that is safe, tried and true? i made and installed mine in about 5-6 hours (just the lift) with a 7 1/2" circular saw with a metal blade and a corded drill. its almost too easy, and it will make those wheels fit and turn much easier. i can nearly go lock to lock with mine, and that is with a decent bit of bashing... and you might not be able to turn that easy.

what do the plugs look like?

sooo.... will you be making castings?

what you did wrong off the bat, shoulda taken a cell phone pic beforehand. if a picture is worth a thousand words, it ought to be one hell of a repair tool. secondly, somewhere in the engine bay i have seen the belt routing diagram on my 91 loyale. if yours is anything like mine it should be there, probably on the underside of the hood. also listed there is the spark plug gap, base ign timing, and vacuum hose routing. if not search for the ea82 service manual PDF download. its floating around in different places, so its not too hard to find with a quick search.

a large adjustable wrench and an oxyacetylene torch.

did you take the strut out? i just popped off the sway bar link and the strut tops and put a boot on the hub. i had my fronts installed in about 30-45 min tops (not bad for a first timer)... i also used a 3/8s impact gun, and a crows foot socket for holding the bolt on the underside. i tightened the blocks to the top with a swivel sockets or wrenches. only reason it wasnt doing down any farther was because the axle was hitting the crossmember. idk if its the same in other cases, but i guess that's mine. i got lotsa tools to make my day easy. edit: bratclay, you have the exact same wheels as i do lol. i got mine for 35 bucks off craigslist. and i rattle canned em black too! ha

you are gonna have a hell of a time getting those blocks with welded bolts in. when i did mine (2 days ago lol) i didnt weld them on the advice of one eye. that way you dont have to jam the strut down farther than 2 in. you can get away with only unbolting the sway bar link and the strut that way. it was tight fitting without it, i cant imagine trying to get it with the bolts welded. also the rear straps (at least ones i made) are 4in long, 1 3/4" wide and 3/8'' thick. they are heated and bent at a 45* angle in the middle. drill holes at each end about 3/4'' from the end and centered. pretty simple stuff. also keep in mind you are going to need a 1/2" hole for the straps. the rear shock bolts are rather large. i didnt have any issues with alignment in the rear and didnt have to weld anything.